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Old 04-24-2017, 04:19 AM   #1
ncp13
 
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Blitz compressor install

The time has come to get Blitzed .

A friend offered to give his blitZ and I could not resist...

I am reading a lot of threads and try to do it once and right with all the knowledge aquired.

I have a complete setup with the clutch and fuel controler. I am only missing the switch selection plate for the compressor modes and the clutch on light.

What is your opinion for the 14point7 fuel controler?

Should I leave the stock one or go another way?

Thank you
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Last edited by ncp13; 04-25-2017 at 04:28 AM. Reason: wrong title
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Old 04-27-2017, 02:36 AM   #2
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The compressor was painted black which was coming off.. I had to clean it up with solvent wire brushes and a lot of patience .
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Old 04-27-2017, 09:33 AM   #3
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Looks good! Can't wait to see it installed. I'm a big fan of Roots blowers for their nice linear power and ability to make a tiny displacement engine feel much bigger.
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Old 04-27-2017, 10:41 PM   #4
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Nice! I wish I could get one!
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:09 PM   #5
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I bought a spare switch from crankoldman. I'm not sure if he has more but it may be worth asking. Before I bought one from him Iwas considering a zen programmable throttle switch which would work the same.
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Old 06-07-2017, 10:17 AM   #6
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It's a bit of an old thread, but I'll add my 2 bits. I doubt I've got another complete switch setup, but I can look again.

I've got a diagram of the selector switch itself around here somewhere, but not the small box it connects to. The selector is just some resistors that change the voltage to a comparator circuit. The activation LED is tied to the output of the comparator, so it turns on whenever the throttle position signal goes above the threshold set by the selector switch. Sounds more complicated than it is. If you can solder, you can make your own switch out of whatever you've got handy.
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Old 06-07-2017, 03:14 PM   #7
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Thank you all for the replies
I am just missing the graphics part of it . I have the switch itself .
I also made a 3mm teflon spacer - gasket for the intake manifold to keep away some heat from the all aluminum intake.

My kit has a boost gauge/ turbo timer setup but i really dont want to use it ...

Slowly getting there ,keeping it stock and ready for some 38c Greek summer driving ..

Everything else will be stock with the vehicle .. For now i guess
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Old 08-29-2017, 11:45 AM   #8
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What spark plugs do i have to run?
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:31 PM   #9
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IK22 are the correct heat range. The IK22 is a 7 heat range, which is what you want for a colder plug with a boosted application.

As for the gap, insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation, even engine damage. Too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, noticeable loss of power, plug fouling, and poor economy. With that being said first thing to do before you install the plugs is to check the gap to make sure its correct as it's not uncommon that they aren't properly gapped from the factory.
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:51 PM   #10
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does anyone even have the supercharger for sale anymore? besides the 3k entry price :C
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
does anyone even have the supercharger for sale anymore? besides the 3k entry price :C
Try your hand at producing your own.

-Buy a Aisin AMR500 or AMR300, perhaps even a SC12 or SC14
-Remove AC and make a bracket that fits that area
-Play, experiment, fabricate and brainstorm
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenRep View Post
Try your hand at producing your own.

-Buy a Aisin AMR500 or AMR300, perhaps even a SC12 or SC14
-Remove AC and make a bracket that fits that area
-Play, experiment, fabricate and brainstorm
I have an idea of what I need, can you break me down a parts list I love DIY.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenRep View Post
Try your hand at producing your own.

-Buy a Aisin AMR500 or AMR300, perhaps even a SC12 or SC14
-Remove AC and make a bracket that fits that area
-Play, experiment, fabricate and brainstorm
wow these are really cheap.

can I just relocated the AC compressor with a longer belt assembly or something custom?
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenRep View Post
Try your hand at producing your own.

-Buy a Aisin AMR500 or AMR300, perhaps even a SC12 or SC14
-Remove AC and make a bracket that fits that area
-Play, experiment, fabricate and brainstorm
I have kinda want to fab one of those overhead "Turbo 2000" intercoolers. like on the vios

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Old 08-29-2017, 03:31 PM   #15
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how do you feel about one of these with the

http://www.ecrater.com/p/23061250/91...id=81021731659

SC14? or the AMR500?
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
I have an idea of what I need, can you break me down a parts list I love DIY.
Every application is going to be different and it comes down to what you're capable of doing yourself or if not, farming out to a independent or friend.

I'd say this is a good sample list.....

- flat steel stock 8mm-12mm in thickness. This would be to make the bracket that helps to keep the supercharger secure.

- AMR300, AMR500, SC12, SC14, or even an Eaton m45 (I'd personally do a AMR500, albeit a little smaller than the Blitz Ogura TX12, it'd be easy to intercool).

- new injectors at minimum (1ZZ at minimum).

- some sort of A/F management (AEM FIC, Emanage Blue, CamCon c-101, etc.).

- input and output flanges for AMR300/AMR500 and piping for intercooler or not.

- bypass valve that recirculates.

- new serpentine belt since the AC clutched pulley is bigger than the supercharger pulley.

- MAF adapter possibly or intake and filter if not using stock airbox.

- Various other items to be thought up and engineered by yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
wow these are really cheap.

can I just relocated the AC compressor with a longer belt assembly or something custom?
You'll have to get it and test fit it as well as take measurements and determine the easiest way to mount and run it.

*Make sure supercharger pulley is STRAIGHT and in line with other pulleys as this is the MOST IMPORTANT part to making it reliable and not causing it to shred belts left and right.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
I have kinda want to fab one of those overhead "Turbo 2000" intercoolers. like on the vios

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Top mount or side mount intercooler would work pretty easily and there are tons of tiny/inexpensive intercoolers out there. Go for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
how do you feel about one of these with the

http://www.ecrater.com/p/23061250/91...id=81021731659

SC14? or the AMR500?
I'd do the AMR500 personally and then slowly work off from that adding parts as you go with test fitting and such. It may be even easier to go down to your local "PICK N' PART" to buy a spare 1NZ-FE and have that someplace to use as the item to test mount on. Should make everything a bit easier.
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Old 08-29-2017, 07:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenRep View Post
Every application is going to be different and it comes down to what you're capable of doing yourself or if not, farming out to a independent or friend.

I'd say this is a good sample list.....

- flat steel stock 8mm-12mm in thickness. This would be to make the bracket that helps to keep the supercharger secure.

- AMR300, AMR500, SC12, SC14, or even an Eaton m45 (I'd personally do a AMR500, albeit a little smaller than the Blitz Ogura TX12, it'd be easy to intercool).

- new injectors at minimum (1ZZ at minimum).

- some sort of A/F management (AEM FIC, Emanage Blue, CamCon c-101, etc.).

- input and output flanges for AMR300/AMR500 and piping for intercooler or not.

- bypass valve that recirculates.

- new serpentine belt since the AC clutched pulley is bigger than the supercharger pulley.

- MAF adapter possibly or intake and filter if not using stock airbox.

- Various other items to be thought up and engineered by yourself.



You'll have to get it and test fit it as well as take measurements and determine the easiest way to mount and run it.

*Make sure supercharger pulley is STRAIGHT and in line with other pulleys as this is the MOST IMPORTANT part to making it reliable and not causing it to shred belts left and right.




Top mount or side mount intercooler would work pretty easily and there are tons of tiny/inexpensive intercoolers out there. Go for it.



I'd do the AMR500 personally and then slowly work off from that adding parts as you go with test fitting and such. It may be even easier to go down to your local "PICK N' PART" to buy a spare 1NZ-FE and have that someplace to use as the item to test mount on. Should make everything a bit easier.
150 HP. little dependability interferance

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Old 08-30-2017, 10:48 AM   #18
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so what ive read up on the AMR500 literally just looks like a bolt on job, is it oilless? purely just pump? cause in most of the installs looks like its just bolted on and hooked up to a pully.

EDIT: Looks like this is a supercharger that you have to oil but doesnt require an oil line, lots of really just bolting things up and getting a controller and some of the other parts that you had mentions, while were on that since this is going to be a bit of a step by step, are the 1zz injects just a swap in?

edit: is the flow rate of a 1zz injector 250? 1nzfe 210? AEM FIC piggyback and a lightweight pully system?

Last edited by DarkShadowFox; 08-30-2017 at 11:27 AM.
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