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Old 11-13-2018, 12:47 AM   #127
stidnam
 
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Didn't realise you were running hypergrams :) good looking wheel. Any side shots?

Any scrubbing with the 195/55 setup? Rolled guards?
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Old 11-13-2018, 06:18 AM   #128
06YarisRS
 
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Headlights look great! Would love to see pics of your gauges setup. I was thinking how nice it would be to have oil temp, pressure and trans temp, since I can't get that with on my head unit in Torque like in my van. I was looking at the compartment cover just behind my steering wheel in the Yaris. Would be the perfect place, although they'd be obscured when I turned the wheel.

I wonder if this would work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-06-08-...YD0F:rk:1:pf:0

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 11-13-2018 at 06:28 AM.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:13 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
Awesome looking car man, I'm really jealous you get to daily drive it.

Speaking of daily driving, since you have the 4.3FD you can buy just a taller 5th gear for better mpg/lower rpm. Email this guy and ask for the .725 5th gearset from a 03-09 Corolla; mmerlimm@teleport.com

When you are ready I can send you the tools, just return them when you're done.
Thanks man, I miss it on weekends since it normally sits in the driveway while we use the Vibe. It's a blast and even when i have another daily it will still be street legal thanks to no longer needing etests - I'll still be able to take it out for a rip when I feel like it.

Thanks for the info on the 5th gear. It will be needed for tracks like mosport when i start there soon. Is that the sake gear that we chatted about a while ago that was a matrix gear?

Quote:
Originally Posted by stidnam View Post
Didn't realise you were running hypergrams :) good looking wheel. Any side shots?

Any scrubbing with the 195/55 setup? Rolled guards?
Thanks, I'm happy with them, they are 15x7.5 +35. I rolled my rear fenders for my track set up which are 205's and I have 10mm spacers on the rear. No rubbing iron issues, fronts are not rolled but I'm running -1.5 rear and -2.8 front camber which helps. It's a nice looking aggressive set up when looking head on at the car

Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Headlights look great! Would love to see pics of your gauges setup. I was thinking how nice it would be to have oil temp, pressure and trans temp, since I can't get that with on my head unit in Torque like in my van. I was looking at the compartment cover just behind my steering wheel in the Yaris. Would be the perfect place, although they'd be obscured when I turned the wheel.

I wonder if this would work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-06-08-...YD0F:rk:1:pf:0

I'll take a pic as soon as my new wheel is installed (currently delayed due to postal strike)

That is the gauge pod I bought. I cut off the bottom and top part so it is essentially just a screw on piece with 3 pods
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:38 AM   #130
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post

I'll take a pic as soon as my new wheel is installed (currently delayed due to postal strike)

That is the gauge pod I bought. I cut off the bottom and top part so it is essentially just a screw on piece with 3 pods
The listing says that it fits both sedans and hatchbacks. How was the fit out of the box? It's looks close to the color of my RS interior trim. I have to institute a bit of a spending freeze after the swap, but I can see me having oil temp, oil pressure and trans temp in one of these pods!
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:09 PM   #131
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Fit is terrible, the bottom portion is way to big and wont fit and the top curve doesn't match up properly. There isn't any place to put the plastic push pins in it either so you couldn't use it to replace your oem cover even if it did fit
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:35 PM   #132
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. .(....Is that the sake gear that we chatted about a while ago that was a matrix gear?)


Yes that’s correct, it’s the tallest gear we can get for these transmissions. It’s the same ratio as my 6th.
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:55 PM   #133
06YarisRS
 
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Fit is terrible, the bottom portion is way to big and wont fit and the top curve doesn't match up properly. There isn't any place to put the plastic push pins in it either so you couldn't use it to replace your oem cover even if it did fit
Well, that sucks! You wouldn't think it would be that hard to make a good-fitting one from an actual piece as a template.
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Old 11-20-2018, 09:27 PM   #134
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Here's a cockpit shot



I installed the steering wheel with functional horn today (no SRS light so pasenger airbag is fully functional). I took a ton of pics and plan on doing a full write up on how to properly wire a horn. There are no proper DIY guides online for this except a bunch of terrible instructional videos from a few highschool kids.

The steering wheel is now at a proper distance away from my chest and I no longer hit my legs with my hands when turning the steering wheel

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Old 11-23-2018, 12:58 AM   #135
ArmstrongRacing
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That looks awesome!
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:09 PM   #136
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new badge install and interior gut

Thanks to Adam I received my badge and installed it earlier today. I didn't install it on my front grill as I have a TRD badge there that I like and my '08 grill doesn't really have space for the TSport badge. I ended up taking a hacksaw to the rear mounting tabs and cutting them flush. I then used my bench top grinder and ground them flat and roughed up the back surface. Then installed 3M double sided automotive tape. I trimmed the tape and then installed th new badge.

I had to remove my old crappy knock off badge and wiped it with Goo Gone. Just make sure you wipe off the old Goo Gone with alcohol before you install the new badge or else it won't stick. The oem Tsport badge is much better quality and it is coated in a urethane so the badge won't get worn out or caught on a micro fiber towel like my old one did







The other day I got tired of not having anything to do on my car so I decided to strip out as much of the interior as I could while still keeping my one child's car seat in place. Below is as far as I was able to go and I even kept the dome light in place. I used some aluminum tape to hold down the wires and it worked well. I also re installed the passenger side "holy shit bar" since I have yet to install a passenger side race seat.

The radio was by far the heaviest thing I removed from the car, it must weigh at least 12-15lbs. I have to keep the HVAC and a/c as I can no longer roll down any windows except the driver side and I need the a/c for my kids in the summer for the odd time I pick them up from day care. I'll find out in ther spring how much weight I've stripped so far but I should be below 2300lbs now with an almost full tank.








I'll post later this weekend about my future plans with the care over the winter
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Old 12-15-2018, 06:01 PM   #137
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It would be interesting to know what the total weight of removed materials is. Could you use a bathroom scale holding each piece and subtracting your weight, then total the differences? I'm going to guess that you have lightened the car by ~ 60 lbs. It may sound silly to the average car person to care about minor weight reductions, but for racing, that's a different story. Badge looks great!
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Old 12-16-2018, 08:36 AM   #138
Ronnie V
 
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Nice seat! Like I mentioned, anytime you want to see total weight it's 20 minutes to roll it on my scales.

Corner weighting will take considerably longer. ;)
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Old 12-16-2018, 09:37 AM   #139
atomic_hoji
 
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And my wife calls my car the ghetto-mobile! lol

Jokes aside, the car is looking awesome man. You, Tom, Jason, ... there's a growing number proving "hardcore" and "Yaris" in the same sentence can be done, lol.

-- Adam
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Old 12-18-2018, 09:25 PM   #140
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future direction

I don't have a scale at home so it won't be possible for me to weigh what I have removed. That said, Ron has been kind enough to offer his corner balance scales to use so I'll be heading down his way soon to see where I'm at. I was around 2370lbs prior to this with an almost full tank of gas, and I think I removed around 60lbs.

Two big heavy items that I wish I could remove but cannot until I have another DD'er is the complete rear seat and heavy brackets as well as the a/c and hvac system. There is probably at least 50-70lbs in those alone.

As I stated in a few posts earlier my family will be looking to upsize our house after next winter which means a garage and a driveway that can fit a minivan (yup, I'm becoming cool soon). This means in over a year I'll use my wife's current car ('05 awd pontaic vibe). The plan is to strip out the rest of the Yaris as well as the inner door skins and replace the glass with lexan or polycarbonate. I'm hoping to get the weight below 2000lbs. The passenger seat will be replaced with a proper race seat as well.

For this winter the plan was to use my tax return money for a custom fabricated long tube header. However, this will cost over $1500 as I also need the rest of my exhaust reworked as it is rattling and banging my rear suspension. The more I thought about it the less it made sense. I've had my mind set on the long tube header for a long time because it used to be sold for a great affordable price (~$375). However I failed to realise that for the price it would now cost me there seem to be much better ways to spend that money and go fast. We no longer need e tests in Ontario so stand alone ecu's are now an option for a street legal car and I think that this would be a great bang for the buck mod. I don't want to run a tune until I have another DDer just in cased things go south.

The plan is to focus on weight and reliability to get me ready for a future built engine. The long term plan for this car is to use available bolt on options and make this car a competitive track car that competes in grassroots time attack series. Monkey Wrench Racing sells a lot of 2zr engine components that would make a seriously fast engine. With stage 2 cams, upgraded valve springs and 12:1 compression pistons I'm confident this engine could make between 150 and 180 whp on pump gas with an 8k red line. That is the long term goal.

For the winter I'll be relocating the battery to behind the passenger seat. The benefit of this is not only better weight distribution, but much less clutter in the engine bay every time I bleed my brakes and/or need to remove the trans. I can now disconnect the battery with a flip of the breaker.

I'll be installing a 1st gen dual row radiator and converting the other necessary parts to make that work to fix my high coolant temp issue. And as always planned I'll be picking up another set of carbotech xp10 front pads and a set of Nankang AR-1 tires. If there is any cash left over after that it will go to getting my exhaust rebuilt and potentially a DC sports header although I'm not convinced it is worth the cash yet. I'll update the thread as I slowly install each part.

Side note: the Redline mt-85 fluid has been exceptional in the trans with the clutch type lsd. No chatter, even on -5 degree start ups and it still locks uo with no issue. I can confidently say that this is the fluid I'll be running all next season. Likely mt-90 for the summer though due to the heat. I'd recommend this to anyone with a clutch type lsd in their Yaris
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Old 12-18-2018, 09:39 PM   #141
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Do any of the 2zz 6 speed configurations come with an LSD? Have you considered a 2zz swap? There's your 170 - 180 hp, 8k revving engine. For fun I've been watching ebay and there's a few engine/trans combos available - imported and tested. I've looked at cams on Monkeywrench Racing as well, but stage 1.

I've also wondered if there would be room under the hood of the 2zr equipped Yaris for one of the TKC turbo kits.

All of the above purely for my entertainment, of course
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 12-18-2018 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:21 PM   #142
tmontague
 
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Turbo kit would likely fit no issue, but I'm more of a fan of high revving NA engines. Plus turbo brings more issues with heat soak and reliability problems.

Imho the 2zz is old technology, it wasnt bad and for the time it was a performance engine from Toyota (read: Yamaha) who really wasnt putting out much in that department. But those hp numbers are at the crank so it's comparing apples to oranges. A 2zr with high compression, cams and a high rev range should be able to easily match the 2zz but in a package that is already in my car and not a whole different swap.

If I was going to go to that trouble and cost I'd go with a Honda K24. 220whp NA all day. The point of where I'm going with this build over the next few years is one that you don't have to pay a shop to fabricate engine mounts and other completely custom stuff. I want to show people that they can buy a 12 year old 2nd gen yaris for cheap, gut it and do an engine swap and with bolt ons, achieve a lightweight fairly fast track car
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Old 12-19-2018, 12:02 AM   #143
ArmstrongRacing
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Don’t cut it up man, you’re going to miss it as a fun daily
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Old 12-19-2018, 05:49 AM   #144
06YarisRS
 
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Turbo kit would likely fit no issue, but I'm more of a fan of high revving NA engines. Plus turbo brings more issues with heat soak and reliability problems.

Imho the 2zz is old technology, it wasnt bad and for the time it was a performance engine from Toyota (read: Yamaha) who really wasnt putting out much in that department. But those hp numbers are at the crank so it's comparing apples to oranges. A 2zr with high compression, cams and a high rev range should be able to easily match the 2zz but in a package that is already in my car and not a whole different swap.

If I was going to go to that trouble and cost I'd go with a Honda K24. 220whp NA all day. The point of where I'm going with this build over the next few years is one that you don't have to pay a shop to fabricate engine mounts and other completely custom stuff. I want to show people that they can buy a 12 year old 2nd gen yaris for cheap, gut it and do an engine swap and with bolt ons, achieve a lightweight fairly fast track car
Ah, all makes sense to me. I wasn't aware that the 2ZR could produce that power. The cams sound really promising. I did read that the 2ZZ has similar power output up to ~6500 RPM, then it comes on a lot stronger. Very informative stuff. Thanks.
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