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Old 12-08-2009, 11:07 PM   #19
SilverGlow
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Id wait till about 10k to switch over. That way your engine has time to fully break in using conventional oil. Using synthetic right off the bat may make your engine take a little longer to break in. If you must use synthetic before they royal purple makes a break in oil. Never tried it though.
That is an old wive's tell....he can use synthetic anytime...lots of brand new cars come from the factory with synthetic in the engine.
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:06 AM   #20
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What synthetic oil brands do you guys like to use?
Castrol EDGE
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:38 AM   #21
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I'm a big fan of Pennzoil Platinum. Returns great UOAs, is available almost everywhere, and is frequently on BOGO sales. What interval are you planning on using?
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:21 AM   #22
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i switch my wifes Echo to syn. with 70,000 mile on her NO PROBLEMS why do people Bull Shit so much?
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:10 PM   #23
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:39 PM   #24
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now what you have to do is call that shop and tell them they should do some reading ;P

guys, what about changing from synthetic to mineral?
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:46 AM   #25
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http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

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There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synthetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)
There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from mineral oil to synthetic oil for the colder months. They then switch back to mineral oil during the warmer months.
There was a time, years ago, when switching between synthetic oils and mineral oils was not recommended if you had used one product or the other for a long period of time. People experienced problems with seals leaking and high oil consumption but changes in additive chemistry and seal material have taken care of those issues. And that's an important caveat. New seal technology is great, but if you're still driving around in a car from the 80's with its original seals, then this argument becomes a bit of a moot point - your seals are still going to be subject to the old leakage problems no matter what newfangled additives the oil companies are putting in their products.
I just switched out from factory oil to Pennzoil Platinum and a TRD filter @ 5000mi. It is my understanding that "synthetics" like PP are compatible with mineral oil, and vice versa.

I strongly recommend a filter wrench cap... let's just say I had to punch a hole through the factory oil filter and shove metal through it to get enough leverage to remove it.
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:02 PM   #26
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i got my car in December of 2008, i switched to Pennzoil Platinum synthetic at 500 miles. i ran that for 1000 miles and switched to Castrol Edge. i ran that for 3000 miles, and when i changed out for Lubro Moly, i did an oil analysis.

Blackstone labs said that the engine example i provided showed etremely low wear even for a new engine with so few miles. there was high silicon, but that was from a volcanic eruption.

you can switch to synthetic at any time.
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:18 PM   #27
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Yeah no problem. Just make sure you change it every 6k miles/6 months like using conventional oil or youll void your warranty. (potentially)
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:10 AM   #28
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I run HDEO Rotella T 10w-30. The engine runs much smoother with it than any syn I had in there(synpower, syntec). The GF4 energy conserving oils are very thin at high temp - high shear rate and can cause piston slap. Also, they are missing the generous % of antiwear agents that the earlier spec oil had. They removed these agents to protect the catalyst through the warranty period, since the agents can plate over the catalyst metals and render them inneffective. The Rotella has the EP antiwear anti-galling agents in good percentage to prtoect the engine. This engine will not use oil through a 5K mile Oci, so, catalyst poisoning is a moot point.
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Old 12-11-2009, 03:55 PM   #29
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I run HDEO Rotella T 10w-30. The engine runs much smoother with it than any syn I had in there(synpower, syntec). The GF4 energy conserving oils are very thin at high temp - high shear rate and can cause piston slap. Also, they are missing the generous % of antiwear agents that the earlier spec oil had. They removed these agents to protect the catalyst through the warranty period, since the agents can plate over the catalyst metals and render them inneffective. The Rotella has the EP antiwear anti-galling agents in good percentage to prtoect the engine. This engine will not use oil through a 5K mile Oci, so, catalyst poisoning is a moot point.
More BS from you, as usual.

The actual scientific data shows that 0w oils are not necessarily thinner at full operational temperatures.

For example 0w-30 and 10w-30 are both the same thickness at 212F.

Same for 0w-20, and 5w-20.

These 0w oils in fact have a lower shear rate then mineral...Grumpy, ArcoGraphite, and all the other many names you have, why do you keep posting BS here and other forums?
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Old 12-11-2009, 03:59 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by SilverGlow View Post
More BS from you, as usual.

The actual scientific data shows that 0w oils are not necessarily thinner at full operational temperatures.

For example 0w-30 and 10w-30 are both the same thickness at 212F.

Same for 0w-20, and 5w-20.

These 0w oils in fact have a lower shear rate then mineral...Grumpy, ArcoGraphite, and all the other many names you have, why do you keep posting BS here and other forums?
OUCH.....
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:18 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth View Post
I run HDEO Rotella T 10w-30. The engine runs much smoother with it than any syn I had in there(synpower, syntec). The GF4 energy conserving oils are very thin at high temp - high shear rate and can cause piston slap. Also, they are missing the generous % of antiwear agents that the earlier spec oil had. They removed these agents to protect the catalyst through the warranty period, since the agents can plate over the catalyst metals and render them inneffective. The Rotella has the EP antiwear anti-galling agents in good percentage to prtoect the engine. This engine will not use oil through a 5K mile Oci, so, catalyst poisoning is a moot point.
I think even Pennzoil Platinum is overkill for a Yaris. Time will tell, but I anticipate no problems related to engine oil... particularly because I will do all oil changes myself with OEM/TRD filters.
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:23 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by SilverGlow View Post
More BS from you, as usual.


These 0w oils in fact have a lower shear rate then mineral...Grumpy, ArcoGraphite, and all the other many names you have, why do you keep posting BS here and other forums?
Nice personal attack, silverworm -You know what they say about people who talk the loudest As usual you disregard my fine points about antiwear agents (SAPS) in SM/GF4 EC oils being reduced. Your absolute BS is about GF4 oils and "shear". Know that GF4 is under 3.0 HTHS on 0w/5w-30 weight; most all 10w-30 CJ-4 HDEO are over 3.5 high temp high shear rate viscosity. Read the FACTS on the product DATA sheets! In your world I should IGNORE the horrendous racket my car makes on syntec and just let it beat itself to death. Great advice!
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:30 PM   #33
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Silver:
I know about low shear rate viscosity at 212degF - All classified SAE 30 weight must demonstrate a kinematic viscosity in a range between 9.3 and the 12.5 cSt - this is what DEFINES a 30wt motor oil. Duh.
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:33 PM   #34
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OUCH.....
Ouch what? Lubricants 101. I said HTHS. Web Idiocracy
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:35 PM   #35
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I have a salvage Saturn 1996 sedan sl2 and has a 172,849 mile on it, is it ok to switch to syntetic oil?
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Old 12-14-2009, 06:28 PM   #36
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I have a salvage Saturn 1996 sedan sl2 and has a 172,849 mile on it, is it ok to switch to syntetic oil?
I switched to synthetic oil on my 89 acura legend. Had 200k miles on it at the time. First the oil pan gasket started to leak. I fixed that. 2 weeks later the distributer o ring seal started to leak. Fixed that. 2 weeks later the upper valve cover gaskets started to leak. Fixed that. 2 weeks later the side valve covers started to leak so fixed that. Then about a month went by and then the oil cooler seal started to leak. So fixed that. About few months went by then the rear main seal started to leak. Finally just sold the car. All i know is i was driving about a year with no oil leaks till i switched to synthetic and then the nightmares began.
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