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Old 11-26-2012, 10:25 PM   #199
guy2can
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2004 Echo RS Tach

2004 Echo RS H/B: Installed an Equus Tach from Canadian Tire, picked up power via add fuse (7.5a)at the "ACC" fuse, and also spliced it for he display power. The tach wire on this card on the OBD2 plug was black with a silver band.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:43 PM   #200
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Sharrrp!
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:39 AM   #201
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hey i just install my tach but it have some delay and when the engine is in neutral de reading goes under 1000 rpm.. can any one help? or
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:19 PM   #202
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No Tach reading

I Spliced the green wire into an orange wire that is on the far bottom left on the ecu port. I've read online that that was where I'm supposed to do it since I have tire pressure monitor. The orange wire is in replace of the greenish blue wire your talking about in cars with tire pressure monitor. It has been driving me crazy that it wont read rpms. Lights work and it has power, also I put my ground exactly where you have yours. Any Ideas?

Thx

09 Yaris3drhatch
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:22 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YarisAddict View Post
I Spliced the green wire into an orange wire that is on the far bottom left on the ecu port. I've read online that that was where I'm supposed to do it since I have tire pressure monitor. The orange wire is in replace of the greenish blue wire your talking about in cars with tire pressure monitor. It has been driving me crazy that it wont read rpms. Lights work and it has power, also I put my ground exactly where you have yours. Any Ideas?

Thx

09 Yaris3drhatch
The orange wire is the correct one for your car. Double check your splice, particularly if you used a tap splice, as that wire is only about 24 AWG, so the tap splice needs to be a tiny one to make a proper connection.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:45 AM   #204
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I used the one that came with the kit. Is there any other way to splice the wires together? I'm just afraid now that the orange wire is basically in half once I remove that little plastic connector. Sorry I'm a noob when it comes to the wiring side of things.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:53 AM   #205
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I used the one that came with the kit. Is there any other way to splice the wires together? I'm just afraid now that the orange wire is basically in half once I remove that little plastic connector. Sorry I'm a noob when it comes to the wiring side of things.
The best method is to strip insulation off both wires and solder them together and then tape or heat shrink. But, crimp on splices are fine as long as they are the correct size for the wires. If you remove yours and find it did cut the wire, it is actually not a big deal, since the tach signal to the OBD connector is really not used by anything.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:51 AM   #206
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I've got a yaris 3 2011 and i want to instal a tachometer but where i can find a guide ? Or it is the same things than i have to do ?
Also do you think i have to put off the steering wheel ?
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Old 12-20-2013, 11:50 AM   #207
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I've got a yaris 3 2011 and i want to instal a tachometer but where i can find a guide ? Or it is the same things than i have to do ?
Also do you think i have to put off the steering wheel ?
Bonjour!

For your 3rd generation French-built Yaris it is similar.

The Tach wire is still in the same place on the diagnostic connector. The wire color may be light green or beige, but the position is the same:




For ignition switched power, if you have a key (instead of the Smart Entry system) you will use the pink wire on the ignition switch connector.

For ground you can use a bolt into metal under the dash, or any white wire with a black stripe.

For illumination, it looks like your French Yaris does not have the dimmer rheostat for adjusting the brightness of the speedometer, so you would instead use the sky blue wire in pin 18 of the headlight switch connector. Pin 18 has a pink wire on one side of it and a violet wire on the other side of it.
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:13 PM   #208
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Okey thank you very much for informations i'm french so after a traduction i will try to find the needed wire and ask you :)
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Old 03-19-2014, 02:26 AM   #209
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Hey guys. Did not want to make a new thread so i'll just ask here.



I bought used Autometer Cobalt Tachometer. It got calibration loops for 8 - 6 - 4 cylinder engines. It was installed on some 6cylinder Nissan Skyline from 90's before. So after wiring it according to manual it started mooving. But... like completely wrong. Was not even climbing up to 4k rpm when engine was almost hitting the redzone.

We played around with calibration loops (there are two pairs of wires at the backside of tach which need to be connected according to the manual) and we tried every possible combination but tach was showing bullshit instead of real rpms. Funny thing is accidently i took two wires that were supposed to be a loop for 6cylinder engine in my hands and it actually started showing correct rpms. So it's like was sending signal through my body. Even though it was showing pretty correct rpms the pointer moving was really ugly and twitchy. When we just connected those two wires together the tach started to show bullshit again. I have no idea what does that mean.

The guy who helped me assumed that this tach is for older cars which, as he said, give "dotted" signal and modern cars are like giving "chart" signal.

I don't know what to think, Maybe it's just a broken tach? Or maybe it really is made for old cars?
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:59 PM   #210
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de donde sacastes la seņal del rpm ? la puse en el cable azul y no me llega completa
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:15 AM   #211
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hello. so if anyone read through all this and still has questions, i'm going to post what I did, and tomorrow I will post pictures of my install:
first, I tapped into obdII plug, light green or brown wire, for tach signal, ground is at kick panel. those are great places. for my power I ran it to the 7.5A by itself by the 15A fuse in previous post pics. and for illumination I ran it to the "accessory lighting" fuse, another 7.5A fuse, in second position. it should be noted, and it was never mentioned, that if you go the fuse plug route, you should remove the fuse and test which side of the circuit is hot when energized. wire goes on the "ground" side of the fuse plug so the circuit is protected from added load. hot side can cause wire overload/fire condition. on my testing the side of the fuse closest to the driver's seat was the hot side, but I urge you to use a volt meter/test light for testing circuit.
also when running ILLUM. wire to lighting circuit fuse it is not in the dimmer circuit but it is the "parking lights" circuit and remains constant, but not too bright to strain the eye.(imo) I like how if you crank the dimmer all the way down/off, the tach is the only lights!
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:22 PM   #212
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:24 PM   #213
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I made my own gauge pod using "Testors" contour putty and lots of sandpaper.
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Old 10-21-2015, 03:29 AM   #214
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Hello.
i just order a digital tachometer. Has anyone used this one?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pvthu2whcd...meter.jpg?dl=0

im waiting for it to deliver soon.
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Old 11-03-2015, 02:01 AM   #215
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i recieved my digital tachometer. i have connected it but its alway on even if the switch is off.
can anyone tell me where to connect the power wire ?
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Old 11-03-2015, 05:52 AM   #216
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i recieved my digital tachometer. i have connected it but its alway on even if the switch is off.
can anyone tell me where to connect the power wire ?

The pink wire on the ignition switch connector is switched power.
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