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Old 03-13-2017, 01:59 PM   #1
Nerfherder
 
Drives: 03 Yaris d4d bit of a shed
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Heater not working, fuses/relays missing

Hi, just bought a 2003 Yaris d4d, the heating blower isn't working, well it blows but only cold.
I looked in the engine fusebox and according to the helpful diagram, heater sub 1 and heater sub 2 are missing.
Does anyone know what they are and where I can get replacements?
I'm in the UK if it makes any difference. Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2017, 02:10 PM   #2
WeeYari
 
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On a Gen2;

HTR SUB1 is 30A
HTR SUB2 is 40A

Can't state if Gen1 are different or not, but I'm guessing the same.

What should be concerning is why these fuses are missing. Presumably blew in the past and not replaced. Or, maybe replaced and blew again, resulting in prior owner saying screw it and live without heat.
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Old 03-13-2017, 04:29 PM   #3
Nerfherder
 
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the 2 relays dont seem to be there either, any clues?
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Old 03-14-2017, 02:10 PM   #4
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I've took some photos, its not the fuses, but where the gaps are, I'm presuming they are missing relays?
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Old 03-14-2017, 02:42 PM   #5
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UK isn't likely to have the cold weather package. Canadian Yarises generally have an electric heater to help out the coolant based heater.

If you are getting fan, but no heat, your heater core has an issue. Either it is not getting coolant (low coolant), it's plugged, or it has a leak.

I guessing those two fuses and relays are for the PTC heater. But maybe I'm way off base here.
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Old 03-14-2017, 03:50 PM   #6
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I'm thinking the same thing. You should have heat when the car is warmed up regardless. If not then you likely have a blocked heater core and you need to flush it.

Like Shepd said, the heater those fuses are for are for the cold weather package that uses an electric heater so you have heat much quicker in cold starts.

What's your coolant level like?
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Old 03-14-2017, 11:53 PM   #7
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In addition to checking the level of the coolant I would also check if you have an air trapped in the system. It's possible that the cooling system was serviced recently and all the air was not bleed out or that you have a coolant leak letting air into the system. You can check for air in the system by taking off the rad cap when the engine is cold and letting the engine idle until the radiator cooling fan cycles on a couple time. If you see air bubbles coming up to the rad cap opening that's air trapped in the system. The Echo factory service manual also suggests checking the rotary heating controls to see if you can hear a clicking sound as you turn the knob and if you can feel a little resistance. 90's Honda's where well known to have the heater knob break at the base making the knob useless.
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:41 AM   #8
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Thanks all I'll check the coolant, the heater knob is clicking so don't think its that.
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:46 AM   #9
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The 1nz does a good job of self burping the air out of the coolant and it will pull from the overflow reservoir when that happens.

That said if your coolant was replaced and not run with the cap off then you could have a large volume of air trapped inside the cooling system which may not allow it to self burp.

The protocol that has always worked for me on all toyota engines for getting air out of the coolant is as follows:

1. Add coolant back into the empty radiator
2. Once the rad is full of coolant keep the cap off and start the car
3. As the level goes down at the filler neck, keep filling it until no more bubbles appear or rise out of the filler neck and the level no longer goes down.
4.If the level start rising because the coolant is warming up then put the cap on and turn the car off.
5. Fill the overflow container just above the full mark and go for a drive that allows the car to get up to operating temps.
6. pull back in your driveway and turn the car off, then check the level on the coolant overflow bottle and fill to the full mark.
7. Drive your car normally and every day or two check the overflow coolant level. It should start to normalize after a day. This is how you know all the air is out of the system.

This can all be done in a much simpler way in your driveway if it is hot enough outside to idle the car up to operating temp, if you have a specific funnel called a "spill free funnel". Personally I don't use it because very rarely is it hot enough outside when I drain the coolant to actually heat up the car during idle in a realistic time frame. I just drive it to speed up the process.
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Old 03-15-2017, 02:51 PM   #10
stykerdk
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Do you know the history of the car?
The 1,4 D4D is well known for blown head gasket, specially on the early models.
And that is often detected with the car not heating.
The worst thing is it often requires a new cylinder head to fix the problem.
So start with getting an exhaust gas test of your coolant.
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