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Old 10-29-2006, 02:30 AM   #55
eTiMaGo
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oh yes winters are very cold here under the tropics

thanks for the heads up though, I'll probably go for mobil 1 first then see about finding better brands, might need a lot of digging around.
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:08 PM   #56
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What defines what a "cold" climate is? I can understand that people in the northern US/Canada would be considered cold, but I live in Texas. While we have cold (by our standards) winters, is it enough to justify going to a 0W-30, or should I just stick with a 5W-30. We might have a handful of days a winter that fall below freezing.
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Old 11-02-2006, 02:55 PM   #57
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Opinons will differ BUT IMO a cold climate is any place that will see cold morning starts where air temps are below 10 oC.
But A cold engine and cold climate are two completely different things. Even in a moderate to warm climate a cold engine is a dry engine and the first minute of running will cause the most damage.
A 0w-30 won't hurt anything run in any cliamte including a tropical cliamte. the 0W just provides easier starting and less engine damage when the engine is cold and even more protection when air temps are a bit colder.
The 0W will allow the engine to run easier when cold, and provide instant and higher oil flow to an engine that's warming up or driven cold, and helps reduce start up engine wear better then 5w or 10w-30 oil.

In texas you are likely perfectly fine with a 5W-30 but the 0W-30 wont hurt, If you are talking about Amsoil the 2000series 0W-30 is a better oil then the 5w-30 which contain less Esters base stocks.
Amsoil 2000 is a group IV-V blend
Most of the others he others are group IV
XL is group III-IV blend
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:50 PM   #58
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dam man, you really know your shit when it comes to oil. i admire your knowledge and thank you for sharing such great information!

planning on running amsoil in my yaris. should i go ahead and just run the engine to 1000 before switching over? i'm sure i could probably change the oil right now but i am kind of broke so waiting until 1000 would be better on the wallet. plus i am sure it won't hurt the engine much more anyways, right?
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:06 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekmoe
dam man, you really know your shit when it comes to oil. i admire your knowledge and thank you for sharing such great information!

planning on running amsoil in my yaris. should i go ahead and just run the engine to 1000 before switching over? i'm sure i could probably change the oil right now but i am kind of broke so waiting until 1000 would be better on the wallet. plus i am sure it won't hurt the engine much more anyways, right?
Thanks

You can wait until your first scheduled oil change to switch to what ever oil you decide to run. Usually 3000-5000miles
You can switch before if you want but there is no need to waste $$$
I would recommend start driving the car as you normally would (if you have not been already) and then change it anytime. I changed mine at 5000km (3000 miles)
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:03 PM   #60
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OMG, just had oil changed to synthetic this Saturday on my older Toyota 4runner (1994, 171000 miles). I went to the Oil Change station that I regularly visit to do oil change, asked for a engine flush and then they changed oil to Amsoil that I purchased separately. What can I say? Thank you for a wonderful input and explanations here. What a difference in driving performance. You just feel it right away, how smoothly my car run, how differently more silently the engine works, how much better the accelaration works. You just feel it Special thanks you for 07WYarisRS, man, it is so educational and helpful
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:05 PM   #61
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Oh, our Yaris is so getting synthetic too after first 5000 miles.
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Old 11-06-2006, 11:53 PM   #62
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Thanks
Sounds like it put a smile on your face...

An entire engine, tranmission and differential fluid change using group IV-V lubricants can give you up to 10 free HP.
That's a very noticable seat of the pants difference that can be seen and felt.
I think the royal purple website vids show gains up 8hp just by switching over
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:39 AM   #63
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It's official people. The best oil to use is right here in this technical service bulletin. 5W-20 or 0W-20 straight from Toyota. Since 5W-20 and 0W-20 can't be made with straight dino, Toyota is telling you indirectly to use Synthetic, or a Synthetic blend. WOW! Finally and end of discussion about dino or synthetic. Kinda like ID and Evolution discussion. hehe

TSB EG018-06
Attached Images
File Type: gif Oil TSB Page 1.gif (33.6 KB, 164 views)
File Type: gif Oil TSB Page 2.gif (15.2 KB, 161 views)
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Old 11-09-2006, 10:21 AM   #64
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Be careful using 20 weight oil
Read the NOTES

It says to use the oil recommend on the oil cap or in the manual as each engine/car may require different viscosity grades.

Keep in mind a 20W oil is for normal driving conditions only.
Do not use them in a high mileage car or engine older then 2006
Do not use them if you run you car under hard conditions, heavy loads or race.
I personally would not run any 20W oil in my car, I'm not that desperate for a mile or two more per tank or cold engine performance. IMO a 0W-30 is still the better overall protection.
Same great cold performance as a 0w-20 but better Hot protection then a 20 weight oil.
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Old 11-09-2006, 11:02 AM   #65
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I'm planning on switching to Red Line 5W30 after about 7,000-8,000 miles. Does that sound OK for an upper Midwest USA climate? (Red Line doesn't make a 0W30.)
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Old 11-09-2006, 12:10 PM   #66
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The manual and oil fill cap for my 07' liftback say to use 5 W 30 so that is the viscosity I will use. Toyota takes no position on synthetics or synthetic blends. The ILSAC GF-4 specification is the API SM designation (SL is GF-3; SJ is GF-2).
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Old 11-09-2006, 12:54 PM   #67
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The TSB, which is an update, applies to the Yaris. I'm sure the oil filler caps were created on the original specifications, now those have CHANGED for NZ series motors, like our 1NZ-FE. If you simply went by the oil filler cap, no TSB would have been needed. The reason Toyota is doing this is to improve their MPG average anyway, but what I find interesting is that these 5W-20 and especially 0W-20 oils only come in synthetics! So Toyota stock brand for these engines will be synthetic or at least a blend. This puts to bed the argument FOR DINO ONLY debates. 0W-30 is still an excellent oil and provides better protection. I believe that a synthetic 0W-20 or 5W-20 will still provide excellent anti-wear benefits though.
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Old 11-09-2006, 04:02 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boris13
I'm planning on switching to Red Line 5W30 after about 7,000-8,000 miles. Does that sound OK for an upper Midwest USA climate? (Red Line doesn't make a 0W30.)
Perfect
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Old 11-09-2006, 04:42 PM   #69
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Motul 8100 0w30 all the way!!!!
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Old 11-09-2006, 05:33 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsmitchell
The TSB, which is an update, applies to the Yaris. I'm sure the oil filler caps were created on the original specifications, now those have CHANGED for NZ series motors, like our 1NZ-FE. If you simply went by the oil filler cap, no TSB would have been needed. The reason Toyota is doing this is to improve their MPG average anyway, but what I find interesting is that these 5W-20 and especially 0W-20 oils only come in synthetics! So Toyota stock brand for these engines will be synthetic or at least a blend. This puts to bed the argument FOR DINO ONLY debates. 0W-30 is still an excellent oil and provides better protection. I believe that a synthetic 0W-20 or 5W-20 will still provide excellent anti-wear benefits though.
This was discussed very much on many forums when these TSB's came out. The conclusion was that if your specific engine is not listed, use what the oil cap says. I bet if you find someone with a new Yaris (recently made) and get them to check their oil cap, it will say 5W-30.

Mike
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Old 11-10-2006, 03:27 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsmitchell

Firefly, you are joking... right... I mean if not, you don't know the first thing about what a "synthetic" oil is. A synthetic oil is basically an oil with molecules of a specific size and shape. They also have a low burn off rate, so the oil stays oil and doesn't turn to sludge from heat.
I hope you are just pulling our leg here, but if not, please do some research on the subject. Toyota mechanics are not the people to talk to about oil, they want you to use Toyota OEM oil and filters only. duh...
My friend heard the EXACT same song and dance from the Acura dealership. He fell for it hook-line-and sinker, like someone else I know on this Yaris board.
"Designed to run with synthetic" That's a good one. It should be "requires oil that wont thicken up like dino in 1000 miles."
Why would you change to synthetic when you need to bring in the car anyways for the other stuff they do during oil changes. Filters, break liquid, tire pressure...., whatever they do.

And please dont act like you know it all, allow other people to have different opinions
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Old 11-14-2006, 07:46 PM   #72
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Well, I have changed the oil to synthetic 2 weeks ago, as it was noticed, already, the car performance is outstanding, but today I noticed, that the arrow on the oil pressure indicator kept standing right on the border between Low and Normal I clearly know, that right after the oil has been changed it was in the middle position of Normal. I also know that after the engine flush technician put only 1.25 gallons of oil in the engine, but not 1.5 gallons, as my 3.0 engine requeres (may be not? forgive me my arrogance).... So, I am thinking, why the oil pressure reduced after 2 weeks of driving.... I read somewhere here, that engine flush with concequent change to synthetic oil cleans up all the system from clogs and debris.... may be after this procedure it cleaned it so intensely that now I can have a leak somewhere ( the car is older one, 1994) or it might happen because the technician didn't put enough oil in the system.... Any advice is very appreciated....
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