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Old 07-10-2011, 04:55 PM   #37
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Do you have a vacuum leak somewhere? I remember from years ago that my old Chevy would idle very rough due to a vacuum leak. It would only run when the throttle was pressed down.
I don't think it's vacuum. I think I would hear some kind of hissing sound if that were the case, right?
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:18 PM   #38
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Once you get all your troubles hammered out shoot me a PM and I will email you the pic of the interior of my A pillar. Best of luck.
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:56 PM   #39
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Once you get all your troubles hammered out shoot me a PM and I will email you the pic of the interior of my A pillar. Best of luck.
Thanks Adrian. I got a reply from Nathan today and he said to let him know when I'm ready to order.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:23 AM   #40
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I've double checked my wiring and everything's going to the correct pin. Can anyone out there recommend a shop I can take this thing to and have it looked at? I'm located in Middletown, NJ, which is Central/Shore NJ. I've checked online but haven't really found anything.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:42 AM   #41
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Is your check engine light on while it's trying to run? If it is, get the codes...
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:52 AM   #42
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It popped on once last night, when I get my foot on the throttle for about a minute to force the car to keep running. I got CEL and the Scangauge said '2 stored codes'. The first one was blank and the second said P0000. I cleared the codes with the SG and haven't pushed the engine that hard again, since I'm afraid of damaging something worse.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:59 AM   #43
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I helped someone out before having trouble and it turned out to be they had the MAF wire in backwards to the fuel controller.
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:04 AM   #44
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I helped someone out before having trouble and it turned out to be they had the MAF wire in backwards to the fuel controller.
I just got off the phone with a local shop, who's too busy to take the car in, but he suggested something might be wrong with the MAF also. Which wire is that, so I know which one to look for?
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:08 AM   #45
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Every shop I call is either too busy or has no experience with the Yaris, so they're not willing to let me have the car towed in.
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:37 AM   #46
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If you look on the wiring diagram there should be two wires for the MAF. One takes the signal from the sensor and the other one sends it along to the stock ECU.

So what happens is the fuel controller sees the signal before the computer does and adjusts the signal. If you have it wire in backwards the signal won't be going in the right direction.

Double check that, or just reconnect the MAF to the ECU bypassing the fuel controller and see if that solves the problem.
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:02 AM   #47
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If you look on the wiring diagram there should be two wires for the MAF. One takes the signal from the sensor and the other one sends it along to the stock ECU.

So what happens is the fuel controller sees the signal before the computer does and adjusts the signal. If you have it wire in backwards the signal won't be going in the right direction.

Double check that, or just reconnect the MAF to the ECU bypassing the fuel controller and see if that solves the problem.
I keep staring at the wiring diagram and I'm still not sure which wire you're talking about, but it sounds like this one could be the problem, so I'm eager to try it. I'm also not sure how to reconnect the MAF to the ECU and bypass the controller.

http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/techsup...ingdiagram.pdf
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:13 AM   #48
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OK, VG is you MAF wire. It doesn't look like it's an inline interrupted signal. The controller just looks at the signal and adds more fuel.

Last thing I can suggest then, if you're sure all the wires are in the right spot, is to do a continuity test with an ohm meter on the connections. You can use a small sowing needle to back prob the pins on the ECU. Make sure the connections are all reading 0 ohms.

Edit, Have you tried running the car with the fuel controller disconnected?
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:26 AM   #49
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OK, VG is you MAF wire. It doesn't look like it's an inline interrupted signal. The controller just looks at the signal and adds more fuel.

Last thing I can suggest then, if you're sure all the wires are in the right spot, is to do a continuity test with an ohm meter on the connections. You can use a small sowing needle to back prob the pins on the ECU. Make sure the connections are all reading 0 ohms.

Edit, Have you tried running the car with the fuel controller disconnected?
I just disconnected the fuel controller (cut all wires and yanked it out) and still having the same issue
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:43 AM   #50
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Then the problem I most definitely hardware related to what you installed. If there a leak anywhere the will not run
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:48 AM   #51
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Then the problem I most definitely hardware related to what you installed. If there a leak anywhere the will not run
That's what I'm figuring. I'm taking the whole thing out now and keeping my fingers crossed the car runs properly when I'm done.
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:47 PM   #52
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Ladies and gentlemen- we have BOOST! Not! Gotcha!

But I pulled everything back out and returned the car to OEM and it's running without an issue!
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:51 PM   #53
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Ladies and gentlemen- we have BOOST! Not! Gotcha!

But I pulled everything back out and returned the car to OEM and it's running without an issue!
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:28 PM   #54
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So there must have been a leak or something letting in un-metered air. Or you had the MAF installed backwards LOL.
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