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Old 04-21-2019, 09:53 PM   #181
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Swapped out my 0w30 Mobil 1 for some Quaker State full syn 0w20. I will post up any difference I see in oil pressure or temps. Based on 540Rat's testing on his blog I opted for this oil due to its very impressive psi rating. The only other oil better than it was Amsoil and I picked up QSUD for $31 for 5L on sale and my Amsoil price of 0w20 signature is much higher than that.

I also am trying out a larger filter this time around, much higher capacity, brings the 2zr from 4.4 L to some where just shy of 5L so probably an extra 200-400ml capacity. The filter is currently a Fram Ultra Synthetic and is spec'd on many of Toyota's v6 engines as well as a 2002 2zz Celica GTS. The only difference between them is the larger filter specs a slightly lower bypass valve PSI of 12 vs 14PSI for the regular filter. The should be a moot issue for me.

Regular oem direct replacement


larger capacity filter


the larger capacity is larger and barely clears the engine block. It leaves about a 1/4" between the filter housing and block.

***take note - keeping the throttle pedal fully depressed when starting the 2zr does not put it into clear flood mode and cut off fuel. It leads to your bouncing off the rev limited at start up***

learn from my mistake...good thing I fully fill/prime the oil filter during install.

All that is left is to make a new rear brake line due to rust and replace the front rubber lines and bleed the system. Then off to the track!
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Old 04-22-2019, 10:29 AM   #182
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***take note - keeping the throttle pedal fully depressed when starting the 2zr does not put it into clear flood mode and cut off fuel. It leads to your bouncing off the rev limited at start up***


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Then off to the track!
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Old 05-01-2019, 09:07 PM   #183
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I drained my Redline MT-85 after about 6k km on it throughout the winter. It shifted very well in the deep cold of our winter but I noticed the shifting degraded slightly as the temps stayed above 0*C. I always planned to run MT-90 during the track season due to higher temps.

When I drained the MT-85 I noticed what I thought was an alarming amount of gold specs suspended throughout the trans fluid. No large chunks, all specs and the magnet on my Mishimoto plug was very clean. My guess is the synchros, but I only ever have a 3rd gear synchro issue when I do really quick shifts, or when I'm at the track under hard cornering.

I'll see how the MT-90 fares, but I seriously contemplating trying to find a GL-4 75w90 (or 80w90 at the very least) conventional trans fluid. I'll just change it out more often due to high track temps, but I'm starting to question the MT-90 in out old Yaris manual transmissions. I'm trying to balance good shifting with a clutch type diff all housed in the same box. The MT-90 did a great job for this and is easy for me to find.

I'll post any updates as I figure this out. It's possible that the fluid had nothing to do with this but I'm going to keep an eye on it.

Tomorrow I'm going to plug away at the last thing I need to do which is replace the 4 rubber brake lines. The rears are seized so it looks like I'll be replacing the whole main lines that run to the rear with some NiCop lines I'll be bending myself. That should be a learning curve
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:46 PM   #184
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Soft brake lines in the front replaced and hard lines in the rear replaced with NiCopp line. I have rear soft lines but they are seized to the line that travels under the car up to the front of the car. I didn't have time to use some heat and vice grips to try and free it up so I just soaked it in penetrating fluid. My line wrench was starting to slip on the nut and it has a lot of play on it so I just stopped.

Bending my own lines went fairly well but it was a learning experience for sure. NiCopp is crazy easy to use as it is very flexible and I ended up making most of the bends with my hands. I have a line bender but the bends are not a super tight radius like the OE lines are so my hands did a better job. I practised about 10 times making double flares the day before and it went ok. The generic tool is fine for a DIY'er but you have to be super careful that it is on the line perfectly straight or you have to re do it.

NiCopp never rusts like the original OE lines so it give you some piece of mine. Pro tip: remove the OE line from the car and then put it on a bench and bend your new line following the old line. Do not try and use a coat hanger that you bent to try and copy it. This may work for simple bent lines but the rears in the Yaris have so odd shape bends and angles and it definitely did not work nearly as fast as just following the original line.

Pro tip #2: Place plastic wrap or half a ziplock bag under the brake reservoir cap. This blocks off the vent in the cap and creates negative pressure as brake fluid drips out of your open lines. This really slow down the leaking of the line quite a bit. They still drip but much much slower so you are not having to constantly fill up the reservoir to avoid bench bleeding your M/C.

I finally got to use my new Toyota specific properly sealing reservoir cap that attaches to my pressure bleeder. Seals perfectly fine and held 20psi with no leaks. Was able to completely flush my fluid in all 4 brake and my slave cylinder in under 15 mins by myself - seriously this tool in unreal with the proper cap.

One of the original rear lines - it started to rust on the metal that is near the nut as it isn't coated in poly


Line #1


Line #2










I also made a proper bracket for all of my power cables that attach to my main power line in the engine bay. Previous to this the fusible link and all the wires were sort of just hovering in space "supported" by the wires themselves. As the temps warmed up the cable became softer and it started drooping. I didn't want the wires to becomes damaged due to bumps and track driving.

The bracket was a simple piece of aluminium and I used a preexisting threaded hole that is on the top of the trans mount meant for the factory battery tray. Because you cannot directly attach the power wires to a piece of metal touching the grounded chassis, I had previously ordered an insulated threaded post from Amazon. I used self tapping screws to mount the insulated post the the bracket and then mounted the whole fusible link to the insulated post. I wanted to keep the main fuses just in case I do an electrical no no and it will save me from a blown ECU and other things. It is good to have that thing still around.



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Old 05-13-2019, 01:01 PM   #185
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Continued on my quest this weekend to have my car fully track ready. Fab'd up a small bracket to fix my now completely unsupported DC Sports CAI. The CAI is meant for a Scion xD and it will work in our Yaris' however it forces the intake filter against the left headlight. This leads to the head light point upwards (can be adjusted so you are not blinding others) as well as puts stress on the rubber mounting bracket that comes with the intake.

My bracket ended up breaking at the rubber damper a few months ago and was only supported by the silicone coupling at the throttle body. This needed to be dealt with properly as the stress and bumps at the track could lead to a vacuum leak.

I took some flat metal stock I previously had lying around from my radiator install and bent a z shaped bracket to replace the broken one. I tapped the bracket on the end closest to the headlight so I didn't have to install as nut as well.

Cheap and dirty but it works very well and the intake now has no movement at all. I also was able to reposition the intake so the filter not is not putting pressure against the headlight housing and they are completely free of one another. I had to run the bumper wiring loom above the intake a opposed to its stock location running below it but this was to avoid contact and potential rubbing away of the insulation on the wiring harness.





I will be getting a corner balance and alignment done and then everything is a go!
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:15 AM   #186
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Haha, very cool and creative. One thing I've noticed is that virtually every adaptation/mod I have done related to my turbo build has been do-able because of the way the Yaris is designed. I always seem to have just enough space (with slight modifications), always have some convenient place to anchor stuff too etc. I can definitely say that I got lucky a few times.

Do you have any concerns about vibrations causing cracking in the plastic headlight body? The headlights do seem quite robust, however. I do like where your filter is placed. I'd have mine there too if it weren't already occupied by the charge piping.
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:39 AM   #187
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Haha, very cool and creative. One thing I've noticed is that virtually every adaptation/mod I have done related to my turbo build has been do-able because of the way the Yaris is designed. I always seem to have just enough space (with slight modifications), always have some convenient place to anchor stuff too etc. I can definitely say that I got lucky a few times.

Do you have any concerns about vibrations causing cracking in the plastic headlight body? The headlights do seem quite robust, however. I do like where your filter is placed. I'd have mine there too if it weren't already occupied by the charge piping.
I agree, for such a small engine bay/front end, there is a decent enough amount of room in there. Have you ever seen the engine bay of a Mini S, they give me anxiety just looking at them!

The intake and filter is no longer touching the headlight housing since I installed my bracket. There should be any contact even with bumps so there should be no issue of cracking. The original bracket supplied by DC is rubber dampened but my bracket is not, potentially my bracket could crack but it seems very stable and the intake is not overly heavy so it should be fine
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Old 05-15-2019, 06:04 AM   #188
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I agree, for such a small engine bay/front end, there is a decent enough amount of room in there. Have you ever seen the engine bay of a Mini S, they give me anxiety just looking at them!

The intake and filter is no longer touching the headlight housing since I installed my bracket. There should be any contact even with bumps so there should be no issue of cracking. The original bracket supplied by DC is rubber dampened but my bracket is not, potentially my bracket could crack but it seems very stable and the intake is not overly heavy so it should be fine
Actually, yes, I did have the chance to peek into the engine bay of a Cooper S. One of my colleagues bought a 2014 recently. Yep, pretty tight in there for sure. My bay, by comparison, looks quite airy. It makes me feel a touch better about engine bay temps. His Cooper is the Countryman AWD, I believe. We went for a little spin and he was kind enough to let me drive. To be honest, I was expecting a bit more uumph. I'm pretty sure my 3.5L powered Sedona minivan would walk all over it. I expect that the regular, lighter Cooper S FWD would be more impressive.

I didn't realize that your mount was not on the headlight housing. Sounds like you've got a great solution there.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:21 PM   #189
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Actually, yes, I did have the chance to peek into the engine bay of a Cooper S. One of my colleagues bought a 2014 recently. Yep, pretty tight in there for sure. My bay, by comparison, looks quite airy. It makes me feel a touch better about engine bay temps. His Cooper is the Countryman AWD, I believe. We went for a little spin and he was kind enough to let me drive. To be honest, I was expecting a bit more uumph. I'm pretty sure my 3.5L powered Sedona minivan would walk all over it. I expect that the regular, lighter Cooper S FWD would be more impressive.

I didn't realize that your mount was not on the headlight housing. Sounds like you've got a great solution there.
The first gen Mini S's used to ride on the bump stops they were so harsh - handles like go carts but tough to daily. The second gen's they smoothed it out quite a bit and made it much more refined. They are definitely a blast to drive but as usual they suffer from carbon build up on the intake valves badly and trying to do anything in that engine bay is a disaster.

The intake mounts to a bolt hole with a bolt that grounds the headlight harness just in front of the headlight. That is where the original DC intake mount bolted to
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Old 05-16-2019, 05:27 AM   #190
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The first gen Mini S's used to ride on the bump stops they were so harsh - handles like go carts but tough to daily. The second gen's they smoothed it out quite a bit and made it much more refined. They are definitely a blast to drive but as usual they suffer from carbon build up on the intake valves badly and trying to do anything in that engine bay is a disaster.

The intake mounts to a bolt hole with a bolt that grounds the headlight harness just in front of the headlight. That is where the original DC intake mount bolted to
Interesting. Yeah, I can't see the majority of the consumers liking a harsh ride regardless of how well it handled. I guess the manufacturers feel that the public is willing to sacrafice handling for a more tempered ride. I too can say that I appreciate a nice balance between handling and a smooth/comfortable ride.

I'm guessing that they are DI if they are suffering the intake coking. And, yes, they''re pretty cramped in the engine bay from what I've seen.

Sounds like your intake is 'track-ready' now. We plan to be in Toronto again this summer, though haven't set hard dates. Maybe it will correspond with one of your track days. I bet my son would love to see that, haha.
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:08 PM   #191
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Interesting. Yeah, I can't see the majority of the consumers liking a harsh ride regardless of how well it handled. I guess the manufacturers feel that the public is willing to sacrafice handling for a more tempered ride. I too can say that I appreciate a nice balance between handling and a smooth/comfortable ride.

I'm guessing that they are DI if they are suffering the intake coking. And, yes, they''re pretty cramped in the engine bay from what I've seen.

Sounds like your intake is 'track-ready' now. We plan to be in Toronto again this summer, though haven't set hard dates. Maybe it will correspond with one of your track days. I bet my son would love to see that, haha.
That would be great to meet up at the track, we should try and coordinate something

Yup, the mini's are DI and have some serious intake valve issues, my in-laws have had a first and second gen mini S so that is why I've been able to drive both.

I agree with you on the handling for a DD, too stiff and it becomes no fun every day. For a track car on the other hand, it will drive pretty rough on public roads if it is set up properly for the track. I am still blown away how stable and flat my car is under severe cornering. It also drives fairly rough and gets taxing being a DDer
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:20 PM   #192
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Decided to pull my coil packs today and inspect for oil leakage and everything came up clean. I have about 50,000km on the engine since I installed it and I changed the valve cover gasket before I put it in.









The reason I decided to look into this is that my '05 Vibe developed a consistent misfire in cylinder 3. I figured it was a bad coil but when I went to pull the coil to swap it to another cylinder to see if the misfire moved, I realized the spark plug hole of cylinder 3 was full of oil almost above the spark plug! The other spark plug holes has oil in them but not nearly as bad. I had replaced the valve cover gasket when we bought the car used and it only has about 55,000km on the gasket. It was a brand name gasket not some ebay cheapie.

I put in a new valve cover gasket and replace the plugs as they were badly fouled with white crud. I fired up the engine and it was misfiring this time in cylinder 1. I replace the coil and it now runs fine. I am blown away that a quality valve cover gasket went bad at only 55,000km. I'm not sure if it is a coincidence and the coil went bad around the same time the valve cover gasket went or if the bad gasket led to the coil going bad.

Either way I would check your spark plug hole periodically, luckily this happened one week before heading on a long family trip to the cottage and I was able to diagnose and fix it before. The 2zr has a different design of gasket around the spark plug hole and it should last longer but the 1nz has the same design as the 1zz engine in my Vibe. The gaskwet typically fails externally which shows up as an oil staining the top of the head, but it can fail internally and be fine externally, this may save you a bad day.
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Old 05-18-2019, 07:33 AM   #193
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Great tip! You're learning so much about these engines/drivetrains etc that you should publish your own "How To" maintenance/repair manual.
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Old 05-19-2019, 10:17 PM   #194
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Great tip! You're learning so much about these engines/drivetrains etc that you should publish your own "How To" maintenance/repair manual.
Lol ya no kidding! I just try to post up as much info as I can so others can learn from my experiences. Always learning new things on these cars
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Old 05-24-2019, 12:57 PM   #195
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I have booked a corner balance and alignment for the first week in June. I won't be heading to the track until then as I want everything well balanced for I start pushing the car. I am planning on going with 1/8th" total toe out in the rear and the front. This allows the car to have some sharp turn in in the front but yet the rear will still kick out a bit which aids in cornering.

Something I've always been amazed by is when you are watching pro drivers in a chicane and they aren't even steering the car as the rear end comes around just enough to point the car where it needs to go. This alignment will help with that with the negative being the wear on the inside of the tires. This is how I had my car set up last season and the turn in was spot on and I was able to control the rear end with changing the dampening on my coilovers. I ruined the alignment slightly when I had to replace worn ball joints so it needs to be re done. I have also removed a handful of weight form the car so a corner balance is in order.

I am curious as to how much my car weighs now, I'd be surprised if it wasn't around 100lbs lighter. I'll post the results here once I get it done.

I also want to build a radiator duct shroud before my first track day as the air can go underneath the car as it sits right now once it enters the lower grill. I plan to riv nut it into place on the lower rad support so it can be removed when needed
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Old 06-04-2019, 03:16 PM   #196
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Front radiator ducting

I have my first track day of the season this Friday evening so I spent way too much time last night and early morning driveway fabrication aluminum sheet metal into a proper duct for my lower grill.

A few months ago I got tires of having to remove zip ties and re ziptie the lower bumper tray back to my bumper every time I wanted to remove the bumper. To get around this, I ziptied the tray to the lower rad support. This way to bumper comes on and off very easy.

I was left with an air gap where air can enter my lower grill anbd slip underneath the radiator and under the car. This isn't ideal from a cooling point of view which I really wasn't too worried about as my cooling capacity is now enormous for my engine set up with my Vibe radiator. I was more concerned with creating front end lift on high speed corner due to the air flow.

This ducting now forces the air from the lower grill right into the radiator with no other place it can go. I wrapped the sharp edges in foam insulation tape and used some thicker foam tape in any holes I had so there are now minimal air gaps.

I likely can now block off my whole upper grill to improve aerodynamics as I doubt I need it, but I plan to leave it for now and see how everything works. I will eventually do aero work on my car once it can sit in a garage a a dedicated track car.

I did not do any ducting to the top portion of the rad I only did the bottom and the sides. There is an OEM black plastic piece on the top of the rad that does some ducting to a certain degree and for now I'll leave that as is. Everything fits very well with the front bumper installed and is very secure thanks to a liberal use of riv nuts.















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Old 06-06-2019, 11:09 AM   #197
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Yaris weightloss!



Here is my updated alignment, slight toe out in front and slight toe in in the rear.

the car is down about 150 lbs (+/- 10lbs in fuel) from last year with everything I have removed. I unfortunately forgot to take a picture of the corner balance scales but I am very impressed with the weight loss of the car. This should make for an even more fun chassis in the corners.
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Old 06-06-2019, 12:33 PM   #198
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Looking forward to your thoughts after the next track session.
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