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Old 12-12-2013, 08:52 AM   #1
Lars
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Cool Installing wheel spacers?

Hi all!

First of all, many thanks in advance for any help you might provide!!

I've order some wheel spacers (H&R's, 10 mm for the front wheels and 15 mm for the rear wheels).

I've been doing a lot of research and I'm not afraid of the rear wheels (remove wheel, remove brake drum cover, bang the old studs out, sit the new studs in, reinstall wheel).

But I'm a little afraid of the front wheels! Is it possible that I will have to remove the disc brake thingy? Is it possible to get it out of the way without having to drain brake fluid or any of that potentially unsafe for noobs like me procedures?

Any light you might shed for me on this will be greatly appreciated :)

Oh, almost forgot, I've got a 2011 5 door european hatchback (model XP9F).

Thanks,
Bruno
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:45 AM   #2
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You don't have to disassemble anything in the front. There is a spot in the knuckle where you are able to slip the studs in and out freely. I have a spare hub lying around. I'll see if I can get you a pic.
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:09 AM   #3
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Here is a pic of the back side of the hub. You can see the half moon shaped recess in the dust shield. If you do find you need to remove the calipers, all you have to do is remove the 19mm bolt at the top and bottom of the caliper and slide it off of the disc. You can just let it dangle on the brake line while you address the studs.
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #4
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If your car has ABS, be very careful when pounding out the rear studs. Having them pressed out would be safer to avoid damaging the rear ABS sensors.

For the fronts the brake caliper can be left connected to its feed hose. Just use something to hang it from the spring to prevent it from hanging against the hose.
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:24 AM   #5
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If your car has ABS, be very careful when pounding out the rear studs. Having them pressed out would be safer to avoid damaging the rear ABS sensors.

For the fronts the brake caliper can be left connected to its feed hose. Just use something to hang it from the spring to prevent it from hanging against the hose.
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:53 AM   #6
Lars
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You guys are life saviors...

I couldn't be more confident about installing them myself now...

And, what a coincidence, I just received them hahaha!! (Had them delivered to work, as there's usually no one at home).

Just need to go to the shop and get those washers and nuts to sit them in and I'll be installing them asap. I'll also be posting pics so that you can see the result :)

Cheers!!
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
If your car has ABS, be very careful when pounding out the rear studs. Having them pressed out would be safer to avoid damaging the rear ABS sensors.

For the fronts the brake caliper can be left connected to its feed hose. Just use something to hang it from the spring to prevent it from hanging against the hose.
CTScott, what if I very gently "pound" it with a piece of cardboard or something on top of it so that it is not so hard... would you say that is ok? Because I'm really not sure I can just push it in with my bare hands, can I??

"Hanging against the hose"... Sorry my mother tongue is not English and I'm not sure I know what this means... does this mean that if I do need to take it off I should somehow "attach it" to the suspension spring? So that all it's weight is not on the hose? If I do need to take it off I'll either have someone hold it while I take the studs out or I'll put maybe a box underneath so that the hose is not under a lot of stress, if that's what you're saying!

Thanks again!
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:03 AM   #8
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He meant pressing them with a tool.

Quote:
You can just let it dangle on the brake line while you address the studs.
Not a good strategy, in my opinion. Stressing the brake lines is dangerous. Better to hang the caliper assembly with some zip ties, wire or similar from a solid point above. But yes, it does slide off the rotor after the two large bolts are removed.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:04 AM   #9
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Just pile up something under the caliper to support it. Books, wood, whatever.

My fear for you is actually the rear studs. I have Ichiba 10mm and the studs they provided me with were way too long. Unless I was a completely brain dead blind idiot at the time, they was no way in hell there was enough room in the drum to slip those in. Had to go to an auto parts store and source out studs short enough to slip in, yet long enough to accommodate for the spacer.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:52 AM   #10
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Ok guys thanks!

WeeYari, I'll let you know
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
I have Ichiba 10mm and the studs they provided me with were way too long.
They should be exactly 10mm longer than stock, to cover the thickness of the spacer only. Perhaps they packed the wrong studs with your kit. Did you buy it from us?
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:25 PM   #12
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Bought used, never installed product. I've heard of other instances where the Ichiba supplied studs were too long. I think the packaged ones were actually 20mm (maybe 15) longer than OE. Don't have my OEs on hand to compare right now. They were HUGE!

Specifics on Ichiba supplied stud:

- threaded portion 48mm
- knurled portion 9mm
- head portion 5mm
- total length 62mm
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:29 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Bought used, never installed product. I've heard of other instances where the Ichiba supplied studs were too long. I think the packaged ones were actually 20mm (maybe 15) longer than OE. Don't have my OEs on hand to compare right now. They were HUGE!

Specifics on supplied Ichiba supplied stud:

- threaded portion 48mm
- knurled portion 9mm
- head portion 5mm
- total length 62mm
I would say 62 mm is a stud to go with aftermarket alloy wheels
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:50 PM   #14
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not that hard although power tool, flat screw driver and a hammer will come in handy...
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by TOLMACH View Post
I would say 62 mm is a stud to go with aftermarket alloy wheels
Nope. OE stud length + 10mm is sufficient for alloys. The issue with 62mm is there is not enough space between the back of the hub and the brake mechanisms to angle the stub up and into the hub hole. OE + 10mm just makes it in. I suppose they could go in if you remove a brake pad. Then again, even if you got those suckers in, they may be too long for closed lug nuts.
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:05 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Lars View Post
Hi all!

First of all, many thanks in advance for any help you might provide!!

I've order some wheel spacers (H&R's, 10 mm for the front wheels and 15 mm for the rear wheels).

I've been doing a lot of research and I'm not afraid of the rear wheels (remove wheel, remove brake drum cover, bang the old studs out, sit the new studs in, reinstall wheel).

But I'm a little afraid of the front wheels! Is it possible that I will have to remove the disc brake thingy? Is it possible to get it out of the way without having to drain brake fluid or any of that potentially unsafe for noobs like me procedures?

Any light you might shed for me on this will be greatly appreciated :)

Oh, almost forgot, I've got a 2011 5 door european hatchback (model XP9F).

Thanks,
Bruno
Front is no problem thanks to that notch, much easier than the rear. Granted we used very long ARP studs, but we had to remove the rear hubs because the ARPs would not pass with them on the car.
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:18 AM   #17
Lars
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A little picture of them, got them yesterday as I told you :)

So the rear can really be tricky heh? I guess I'll find out soon! I might postpone this to spring time though... as it is friggin' cold around here now :D

Cheers
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:22 AM   #18
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OE vs Ichiba

OE stud total length is 45mm, so the ones shipped with 10mm Ichiba spacers are 17mm longer. Hopefully they have rectified this.
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