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Old 05-21-2014, 09:13 AM   #1
Intruder
 
Drives: 2000 W Reg 1.0 CDX Yaris
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Indicator fuse blowing in hot weather

Hi everyone,

As you can tell by the title, I'm having a problem with my indicators.

When the car has been out in the sun, the fuse blows when I try to use the indicators.

Now I had this same issue last year in hot weather and of course I googled to try find what may be the cause and I was led to a thread on this forum (which I can no longer seem to find) that it maybe corrosion on the bulb contacts (which makes sense with regards to the heat from the hot weather) so I've had the circuit and contacts checked for corrosion and cleaned but here I am again with the same problem.

I've further looked around and the next step is to replace the relay as it maybe the cause behind this problem however I'm having even more difficulty trying to find a replacement part!

My Yaris is pretty old now, W reg (2000) 1.0 Litre - so Japanese built one and looking for the flasher relay used for my car seems that no where stocks the part. The part number for mine is 81980-50030 and I can't find this anywhere, phoned up Toyota and they're asking for 51 for this little thing! I have found 81980-50040 models online but thats apparently for 2003-2006 models.

Anyway, if anyone could help and advise what I should do and check or where I can find an affordable new relay from, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:10 AM   #2
CTScott
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Those relays are common to most Toyotas over here, including many current model ones, so they can be had used (but off a very new vehicle) for under $20 US. Postage to the UK would only run about $10. If you wanted to try replacing it, For around $30 US I could grab one and ship it to you.

The relay is a possibility, but with it only being heat related, I would more suspect the switch than the relay.

With checking for corrosion, did you check all of the bulbs (front, rear and wings {if so equipped}).

Also, how often does it happen (If it is a hot sunny day, are you pretty well guaranteed that as soon as you flip the indicators that it will blow)?
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:22 AM   #3
Intruder
 
Drives: 2000 W Reg 1.0 CDX Yaris
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Hiya CTScott, thanks for replying.

I've found a few on ebay for ~10 but they're all used, preferably I'd want a new one so I may have to end up going the ebay route although I'm waiting for a call back from a local garage and a car parts specialist.

As for how often it occurs, I wouldn't say it's the fuse is guaranteed to blow when it's hot/sunny, sometimes the fuse blows straight away sometimes it wont blow till about 20 minutes after replacing it, it's been incredibly frustrating to try diagnose this issue

And yes, checked each indicator bulb including the small ones on the side of the wings, I've done this twice now and can find nothing wrong short of replacing the wiring loom entirely.

So when you say switch, do you mean from the stalk on the steering wheel column?
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:52 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Intruder View Post
Hiya CTScott, thanks for replying.

I've found a few on ebay for ~10 but they're all used, preferably I'd want a new one so I may have to end up going the ebay route although I'm waiting for a call back from a local garage and a car parts specialist.

As for how often it occurs, I wouldn't say it's the fuse is guaranteed to blow when it's hot/sunny, sometimes the fuse blows straight away sometimes it wont blow till about 20 minutes after replacing it, it's been incredibly frustrating to try diagnose this issue

And yes, checked each indicator bulb including the small ones on the side of the wings, I've done this twice now and can find nothing wrong short of replacing the wiring loom entirely.

So when you say switch, do you mean from the stalk on the steering wheel column?

Correct on the switch being the stalk. It may be that the lubricant within the stalk has carbonized, where it becomes somewhat conductive.

Another thing that would help to diagnose it would be to check is the current draw. This would require a multimeter that has an ammeter mode. You could then pull the fuse and insert the ammeter in series with the fuse. Then you can check the current draw through the fuse while flashing the indicators. If the current draw is close to the fuse rating on one side, then you reduce your checking to just that side. You can also try jumping the wires for each direction to bypass the stalk and if the current draw was significantly less, then you would know that the stalk was the issue.
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:13 AM   #5
Intruder
 
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Ok I'll give these a go, checking the current and the condition of the stalk.

I'll let you know the results in due time, thanks again.
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:22 PM   #6
Intruder
 
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Well, I took all the steering column facias off and took the stalk switch out. I didn't strip the switch down because I didn't want to risk losing any of the springs or small fiddly bits but I cleaned it as much as I could and sprayed some gt85 in for good measure too, as a result it feels better to use now actually.

As for testing current I couldn't really test it but at the moment I suspect the fuse wouldn't have tripped anyway as it's much cooler now.

So for the time being I'll monitor it and see what happens.

Thanks again
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:45 AM   #7
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Hi again, I believe I've come to the conclusion that the seals around the rear lamp casing may have perished, I've yet to check the seals myself but I'm having water leaking into the boot and this is as I've found out a very common fault. I'm just wondering if anyone can point me in a direction of where to find replacement seals for both the light casings and for the tailgate (just for extra measure).
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:43 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Intruder View Post
Hi again, I believe I've come to the conclusion that the seals around the rear lamp casing may have perished, I've yet to check the seals myself but I'm having water leaking into the boot and this is as I've found out a very common fault. I'm just wondering if anyone can point me in a direction of where to find replacement seals for both the light casings and for the tailgate (just for extra measure).
I don't believe there are any aftermarket seals available, so they would be something you would have to grab from your Toyota dealer.
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:59 AM   #9
Intruder
 
Drives: 2000 W Reg 1.0 CDX Yaris
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Well then, I had my car taken to the garage for it's MOT/Service and also had an auto-electrician take a look at my indicator problem, it turned out that sometime in the past there had been some re-wiring done and it wasn't done properly and as a result part of the wiring had been too close to the exhaust system, this cause the insulation to melt causing the exposed wiring to earth on the bodywork so a new loom has been put in.
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