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Old 07-29-2010, 10:46 PM   #1
Brian
 
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DIY - Carbon fiber wrapping

DIY CARBON FIBER WRAPPING

NOTE: I am still working on the part in this D.I.Y. so I will continue to update the pics.


SUPPLIES/TOOLS:
Resin + hardener (I used West systems 105 resin with 207 special all weather hardener also has very little or no bubbling)
Gloves (powder free Nitrile or Latex)
Plastic mixing cups
Stiring sticks (popsicle sticks)
Brushes (bristle or foam)
Respirator
Sandpaper (240g, 320g, 600g, 1000g, 1500g, 2000g)
Sharp scissors (I use aviation snips because they’re not too expensive and stay sharp plus I already had them)
Isopropyl alcohol (I use a 50/50 mix with water)
Tape (blue painters or the bright green automotive)
3M Super 77 spray adhesive
Carbon Fiber fabric (3K 2x2 twill works best for overlays and cosmetic applications)
Optional pump kits for resin and hardener
UV resistant clear coat
Rubbing compound

STEP 1:
Choose the part you want to wrap. If this is your first time, start with something relatively flat and without too many contours. Start by scuff sanding the part with 240g sandpaper on all surfaces where adhesive/resin will be applied. Wipe down with alcohol.


STEP 2:
Figure out how much fabric it will take to cover the part. Make sure to leave at least ¼” to wrap it around the back. Before cutting the fabric from the roll, I like to apply masking tape around the perimeter. It keeps the weave in place. Cut out your piece of fabric. Test fit the piece of over your part so you know how you want to position it.


STEP 3:
It is up to you how you want to proceed with this step. You can either use resin or the 3M Super 77. I prefer using 3M. It’s faster and easier to get the fabric to stick. Spray your part about ¼” all the way around on the back and the entire front.

Let the adhesive become aggressively tacky. About 90 seconds depending on outside temperature.

STEP 4:
Make sure you know how you want to position the fabric and lay it down on top of your part. Don’t mess up because in you try to move it or pull it off you will ruin the fabric. Starting from the middle and working outwards, push straight down on the fabric. Do not smooth it out by rubbing because it will disturb the weave. Wrap the fabric around the back over the adhesive you spayed.

STEP 5:
Now you will need to do some trimming. Whenever I make a cut I like to use masking tape to keep the weave straight.

When you are satisfied, proceed to step 6.

STEP 6:
Now it’s time to “Wet-out” the CF. Grab a brush and cut about half of the bristles off or use a foam brush. Mix resin + hardener according to manufacturer (this is where the pumps come in handy). Dip brush in resin and apply it to the part in a dabbing motion. Do not brush it on for the first coat because it will mess up the weave. If you use the foam brush it’s possible to brush the resin on but you need to do it very lightly. If you use a bristle brush make sure to immediately remove any bristle that comes off. Cover the entire part including the back.


Allow resin to cure overnight.

STEP 7:
Now you will need to apply 2-3 more coats of resin. These coats can be brushed on. Make the coats as even as possible, makes sanding easier later on. Wait a couple of hours between coats.

STEP 8:
Now that you have built up a nice layer of resin, it’s time for a little clean up. Use a dremel and cut-off wheel to trim up the back so the part sits flat when you put it on your vehicle. Start sanding the top of your part. Start with the most coarse sandpaper to get rid of any high spots and work your way up to a finer grit. Be very careful not to sand down into the fabric. If you think you’ll have to go to far, apply more resin. You’re part will look horrible and dull, but that’s okay.



You can also see where the high/low spots are when you sand your part. Keep sanding until the whole surface is flat and smooth.

STEP 9:
Wipe off your part with alcohol/water. Make sure to remove all the dust and particles from sanding.

STEP 10:
This next step will be your decision on how to proceed. You can use either a clear coat or rubbing compound. Rubbing compound takes more effort and time but either way results are almost identical. I prefer a clear coat for added UV protection. If you use a clear coat you will still need to wet sand the part with 1000g-2000g. Apply 2-3 coats of clear, allowing to flash 5-10 minutes in between coats.

STEP 11:
Once clear coat has dried completely, smooth it out by wet sanding with 1000g-2000g wet/dry sandpaper. After I wet sanded the part, the clear coat had a haze. I then buffed it with rubbing compound, ultra cut compound, show car glaze polish, and carnuba wax. Here is the final outcome:




SUPPLY RESOURCES:
SOLLER COMPOSITES (http://sollercomposites.com/) – CF, resin, safety equipment, tools
TAP PLASTICS (http://www.tapplastics.com/index.php?) – plastic, brushes
RPLASTICS (http://www.rplastics.com/mixingcups.html) – mixing cups
US COMPOSITES (http://uscomposites.com/) – tools, supplies
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:50 PM   #2
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LOOKS FANTASTIC!

BUT way too much work IMO. I'd just as rather use the high quality 3M stuff. lol
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:58 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by sleey0 View Post
LOOKS FANTASTIC!

BUT way too much work IMO. I'd just as rather use the high quality 3M stuff. lol
I know it looks like a lot of work, but it really isn't once you start doing it. The longest part is waiting for the multiple coats of resin to dry. It takes me about a week to complete one part and I can only work on each part for maybe 30 minutes per day. I find it better when the outside temperature is atleast 80 degrees so the resin cures in about half the time.
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Old 09-08-2010, 04:34 AM   #4
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excellent DIY!
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:24 AM   #5
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Brian....if you could, would you on your next piece show where you are making your trimming cuts so the piece lays flat. I saw nice shots of the top but none on the inside. The description was nice but a pic to accompany would have been great. Oh, thanks for the response via PM. I saved the site in my favorites and will be following your comments on other peoples projects.
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:53 PM   #6
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Super 77 will work

I was searching for carbon fiber adhesive super 77 and your project popped up. Really tight. I haven't had any problems using super 77 and carbon fiber at all, but i wanted to make sure that no one else had issues with excessive heat before I took on my next project. FYI its a heck of a lot cheaper to buy super 77 by the case (unless you have a shop, then buy a tank I saved about $90 at http://www.shopdirectbrands.com/super-77.aspx

Thanks for sharing your pictures and project.
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:13 PM   #7
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Trunk Garnish completed/shipped by Brian and installed:





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Old 10-25-2010, 06:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKEStyle View Post
I was searching for carbon fiber adhesive super 77 and your project popped up. Really tight. I haven't had any problems using super 77 and carbon fiber at all, but i wanted to make sure that no one else had issues with excessive heat before I took on my next project. FYI its a heck of a lot cheaper to buy super 77 by the case (unless you have a shop, then buy a tank I saved about $90 at http://www.shopdirectbrands.com/super-77.aspx

Thanks for sharing your pictures and project.
The Super 77 has worked well in most situations.
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:31 PM   #9
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Great tutorial. Sitckied!
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Old 10-26-2010, 09:15 PM   #10
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Did some experimenting with resin pigments today. I have 4 different transparent pigments (blue, yellow, red, green) and 12 different opaque pigments (red, gunsmoke grey, colonial brown, emerald green, maize yellow, golden rod yellow, teal, idigo blue, keel blue, off white, carbon black, and white). I tried the transparent green and blue.








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Old 02-08-2011, 08:09 AM   #11
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:56 AM   #12
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would you be intersted in wrapping some parts...? if i sent them your way... i would pay of course
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:54 AM   #13
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would you be intersted in wrapping some parts...? if i sent them your way... i would pay of course
PM me and let me know what you want done.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:54 PM   #14
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I have finally been able to get my wrapped climate control panel installed this weekend with the controls for the heated seats...thanks again for the great work Brian...now all I am waiting on is the stereo bezel and the console will be completed.

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Old 05-01-2011, 10:59 PM   #15
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PM me and let me know what you want done.
Dude, I'm local....I should have you hook me up with some pieces, if you're interested of course. Great DIY, but when it comes to glossy finishes I have a bad habit of rushing/ruining things(touchy touchy). lol
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Old 07-10-2016, 12:34 PM   #16
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I have a scratch on the black plastic panel on the upper drivers side door. It was bumped very slighty now paint is showing underneath. How can this be repaired?
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