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Old 05-22-2014, 04:21 PM   #1
tmontague
 
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Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
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General Maintenance and some minor "mods"

Worked on my car a bit today and wanted to point out a few things to give others some insight etc.

The bottom bolt on my alternator which is a claimed 14mm was too small for my 14mm socket and I had to use a 9/16 which fit much tighter. I almost stripped the bolt with my 14mm. I didn't check the socket so it could be the socket was starting to strip but it fit perfect and snug with the 9/16 and I got the bolt loose with that one.

My Yaris had 118,000 km on it and after changing the lower control arm bolts last week and serpentine belt, I decided to do a few other things this week.

I added an oil catch can using the DIY posted here. It cost me a total of $39 with taxes and everything. I could only find a 1/4" filter and then used the same hose ends with a 3/8" hose fitting. Eeverything worked wel as according to the DIY. I had to take a dremmel and cut away part of my engine cover so that the hoses would fit. With the Oil catch the PCV hose no longer fits tightly alongside the engine. I haven't noticed any oil in it yet, however I cleaned out my PCV last week and just changed the oil so I wans't expecting anything.

I also did the DIY air intake today. I decided against purchasing the K&N high flow filter. Keep in mind I am not doing any of these things for performance but for none other then a small increase in fuel economy and longevity of the car. If I get an extra HP or two then great but it's safe to say I wouldn't notice anyways. I decided to use a dremmel and cut the front facing (facing the back of the headlight) and the right side (facing the wheel well) parts of the lower air box. I left the corner there for support but other then that both side are completely open. I still have the stock filter in there. I notice a lower grumble when the RPM's increase(keep in mind i generally shift around 2500-2700). When in 5th the engine is still nice and quite, and when it is a little louder the noise isn't that annoying muffler noise you hear in highschool kids cars. It's a lower growl from the engine. To be honest I haven't noticed any change in power or pick-up (expected), that being said I haven't even tried to push it at all.

I used a piece of the plastic that I removed from the lower airbox and cut it into a circle. I then used black duct tape and covered the stock airbox hole. Since I am no longer using the snorkel there is no reason to have an opening facing the hot engine, The air box is more then open enough now.

I also cleaned my TB. I wanted to completely remove it so that I could get a good look at it and nothing when into the manifold. I had a surprise when coolant started leaking from one of the hoses I removed from the TB. I should've expected it but just forgot. Not a whole lot came out anyway. My TB was pretty clean. However where it was dirty was right around the edges of the butterfly valve in the closed position. It was a thick oily sludge. Nothing big enough to limit air flow but over time it would have definitely stopped the valve from closing fully. I used some TB cleaner and cleaned it off and reinstalled with no problems.

My one question I have pertains to bleeding the coolant. I installed the TB back including the coolant tubes. Iran the engine for a while with the rad cap off until there were no more bubble coming out. I added coolant before I did this and a little after. I then repeated one more time and added a small bit of coolant to the over flow. Do I need to do anything else or did this get rid of the air in the system?

I will keep an eye on the over flow over the next week and top it up if needed. The rad cap is the highest point on the engine so the air should escape from that point saving me from having to do much else to properly bleed it, if this correct?

Next up will be an oil pressure, water temp and vacuum gauge set. This will likely be the most challenging as I've yet to deal with electrical. I'll post a topic with a few Q's I have next week.

My goal is to get the longest mileage and best fuel economy out of my Yaris. So far I've been impressed and have had no issues. I figure if I keep everything in check/clean then I should have no problem getting 350,000+km out of it. I do a mix of about 50/50 highway and city. My gf's 02 echo has 330,000km and we got it used with about 280,000km on it. She has a ton of engine sludge and it burning oil (can't tell by looking) which is causing the cat converter to go bad tripping a code. Other then that it runs fine and have had no major issues.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:32 PM   #2
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forgot to attach images of bolts I removed last week.
I got lucky...
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:03 PM   #3
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was driving home from work tonight (no problems driving around all day) and all of a sudden my car lost power and sputtered to a stall. I pulled over and tried to restart, engine would rev on start and then settle down to normal idle but just die. I luckily stalled in front of a used car dealer and borrow a scanner. Pulled up P0102 Mass or volume air flow circuit low input. I check the oil catch and made sure everything was connected and it was all good. Couldn't figure it out. I then decided to disconnect and reconnect the two connection I had unplugged earlier today. The TB and the MAF connector. Started it back up and the engine was good to go.

Had anyone else had this issue before. I'm assuming the MAF connector was not connected properly. Let me know if there is anything else I should check before I assume everything is good to go.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:43 PM   #4
fnkngrv
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The MAF can be finicky. As for the coolant flush you might still have air in the system or might not. I k ow when I have drained/filled mine it has been a love/hate situation as it always seems to take forever.

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Old 05-22-2014, 10:53 PM   #5
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Thanks for th reply. I forgot to check the coolant reaevoir level tonight since I was a little pre occupied with the stall. I'll check tomorrow and see if the reservoir went down at all
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Old 05-28-2014, 01:52 PM   #6
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oil catch

can you post a pix of the oil catch can, i'd like to see that. what diy did you use for that?

the Tb sometimes have a gasket you need to replace or use the same one if it's not damage when you take it off.
If it's got a slight leak that could have been the reason you got that weird code earlier.
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:19 PM   #7
fnkngrv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esse10 View Post
can you post a pix of the oil catch can, i'd like to see that. what diy did you use for that?

the Tb sometimes have a gasket you need to replace or use the same one if it's not damage when you take it off.
If it's got a slight leak that could have been the reason you got that weird code earlier.
If you want PM me and I can share with you the catch can that I had assembled.

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Old 06-02-2014, 01:31 PM   #8
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I haven't had the engine stall or trip a CEL since I fixed it last week. I guess I may have not connected the MAF correctly when I clipped with wire connectors back together. The coolant has seemed to stabilize as it is right in between the low and full in the overflow reservoir when cold. If I open my rad cap you can see coolant in there as well.

I used the DIY posted in the DIY section on this forum. I checked the catch yesterday and there is about half a CC of oil in there after about 1000km of driving. I cleaned the PCV valve and did an oil change about a week before installing the oil catch.

On a side note I have seemed to notice a spike in better fuel mileage since I open up my air box. It could also be due to my oil change, however I change my oil every 8000km and it is barely dirty when I do change it and I've always run synthetic.
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