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Old 09-02-2009, 06:55 PM   #19
Sodium Duck
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I just did the wiring today. I ended up mixing the tail light wire and left turn signal wire. That was a pain.

So anyways, You need to buy yourself this hot little item. $15.00 at any auto parts store: Reese 60 inch 4 Way Connector Tail Light Converter For reasons beyond my knowledge, you just need it to have the converter box thing.

So first step is to get at your tail lights. Pull the little vent cover thing off of each side.

Then remove your trunk floor, and cargo cover thing to make room for yourself.

Next, you're going to want to yank out the center trim piece. There are two pop rivet type things on the front of it, so just pop them out and the piece slides easily up.

Then on the side plastics, there is one pop rivet. Just yank a little till it lets go so later on you'll be able to get some fingers in there and pull wires through.

Now starts the wiring. First, I put the converter box under the cover for the rear shock on the DRIVERS side. I thought this was a convenient spot for it. You have to get creative running the wires, just take your time.

So next, you run the green wire from the converter box out under the plastic pieces, across where the center piece was removed, and over to the PASSENGER side tail light. This gets connected to the only yellow wire there.

Then back to the DRIVERS side. The red wire from the box goes to the purple wire. The yellow wire from the box, goes to the LIGHT GREEN wire. The brown wire from the box goes to the DARK GREEN wire. And the white wire from the box goes to the white wire with a black stripe.

Route the 4-pin flat connector out to the hatch area, and you're done. Just button it up.

I accidentally mixed up the green wires when I first did this, so be careful. I hit my left turn signal, and both tail lights were flashing on the trailer. Whoops!
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:33 PM   #20
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WOW! that's how I luv my DIY! explained in clear details on how to connect the wires! good job!
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:24 AM   #21
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Just got my trailer registered today, 23 bucks. Not bad.
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:31 AM   #22
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Just got my trailer registered today, 23 bucks. Not bad.
That's why I own a trailer rather than a pickup. In CT we also pay property tax on motor vehicles, boats, etc. as well. Property tax for my trailer is only $8 per year, as opposed to $100+ for a car or truck.
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Old 09-05-2009, 02:28 PM   #23
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Haha, thanks YarisWorld!
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:52 PM   #24
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$5.00 tax on my trailer in the mail today! Damn it! lol

I also added some white fiberglass poles to the end of the trailer, because without them the trailer is completely out of my site when I look behind -- I couldn't back it up right. Now, I can see where it's going.
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:43 PM   #25
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Sorry to revive this from the dead (even though stickied), but the Reese hitch is a direct copy (or vice-versa) of the Draw-Tite, correct?


I just got a smoking deal on a Reese. Picked up the hitch with the all the bits for $80CAD + $18 shipping via Greyhound, brand new.
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:04 PM   #26
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Sorry firemachine, but I just had to dig these up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by firemachine69 View Post
The HITCH itself is rated for that much: the vehicle may NOT legally tow anything IN THE UNITED STATES do to liability reasons. If you HAVE AN ACCIDENT (and only then) will you be legally held criminally responsible for someone's death, and if not, expect to be sued for everything you own.

Judge: "Your manual specifically states that towing is NOT recommended, why did you so believe you could go against the recommendation?"

Defendant: "Because I'm a hard-headed idiot?"


As well, the uni-frame is incredibly thin, making twisting a possibility at the attachment points.
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If ever I need to HAUL something, I either rent a truck, or borrow one. Really.

Our manual in Canada is rated at 70lbs tongue (which feels like nothing, literally), and a 700lbs max load. Most small trailers already eat up 100-200 pounds.

Do the math on how easy it would be to exceed the rated maximum. The Yaris is just not made to tow, from the flimsy sheet metal, to the ultra-soft suspension, to the super-short wheelbase, to the low-traction stock tires... You get the idea...


Like I said, the liability is just not worth it.



Like Mike Holmes says: "Do it right the first time." The Yaris is NOT doing it right, it's half-assing it... Like trying to build a house with a multi-tool.
Have you changed your point of view, or getting ready for hitch mount bike carriers?
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:15 PM   #27
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whoaaaaaaaa! lol
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:01 PM   #28
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Sorry firemachine, but I just had to dig these up.





Have you changed your point of view, or getting ready for hitch mount bike carriers?




One of those tear-drop shaped mini Uhaul trailers. Well within spec. I do rent a truck (a little more frequently than I'd like, too, and never for myself! ) But feel free to punch in Sudbury, Ontario, to Edmonton, Alberta on any truck-rental website, for the understanding why I'm succombing to getting a hitch. Yes, it does feel sort of half-assed. But I can't justify a 1K truck move for a quarter-filled bed/box! The move is already going to cost me a fortune as-is!

My advice for American Yarii owners still stands. Liability is immense down south. I was just watching the news, and some mother in the US just successfully sued Louisville Sluggers because her son got hit in the head with a baseball (and succombed afterwards), which just so happen to be hit with one of their bats. Her reasoning and the jury's acceptance? It didn't come with a warning sticker.

Your standard Home Depot galvanized trailer can't carry any worthwhile weight (again, if you stay within spec). That Harbour Freight one, however, might be made so cheap that it weighs next to nothing... Except we don't have HF in Canada.
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:01 PM   #29
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This is a great how-to. I just ordered a drawtite hitch and I'll be using my Yaris to tow a 250lb trailer and either my CBR1000RR or SM510R, depending on destination. Total weight with the heavier motorcycle(CBR) is right at 700lbs, 525lbs with the motard. I don't have the slightest reservation about using the yaris to tow lighter loads with the proper setup. A friend tows a much larger, heavier trailer/motorcycle combo with his base model 2001 Celica without issue. I guess we will see how tow worthy this little car is this time next year when the riding season is done.

EDIT- I do have a question, could you get a measurement from the ground to the bottom or top of the hitch? My trailer needs a 13" ball height so I'll need to find out how much rise I need for the ball mount/draw bar. Thanks!!!
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:29 PM   #30
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I'll check on that tomorrow for you.
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Old 02-17-2010, 04:43 PM   #31
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To the center of the receiver is approximately 11.5". So if you buy the hitch I talk about in post #7, and install the ball upside down on it, it would probably be fine.
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Old 02-17-2010, 05:39 PM   #32
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Thanks for your help. I assume your car is not lowered and has close to oem size tires/wheels? Thanks again.
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:05 PM   #33
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Yup. All stock.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:33 PM   #34
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:01 PM   #35
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Comparing a Yaris to a Celica when it comes to pulling a trailer can be more like comparing apples to oranges. The clutch components in a 5-speed Yaris are light-weight compared to a Celica transmission not to mention Celica engines are more powerful. So if your 1.5 liter Yaris has a manual transmission, hauling 700 pounds should be done only on a limited basis (especially in hilly areas) if at all. You probably have a little less to worry about if you have an automatic, but you should still exercise caution.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:36 PM   #36
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Wow - great write-up!
Thanks!
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