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Old 10-09-2011, 10:23 PM   #1
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 248
is it hard to add a 12-volt auxilliary power outlet?

I want to add an 12-volt auxiliary power outlet in my Yaris cab that is rated to 15 amps. They sell such things, see link It looks like you essentially run a (red) positive from your battery post through the firewall into your cab and then ground a (black) negative. You can also add a 15 amp in series fuse. I want to add this because I want to use a 12-volt stove that draws 12 amps for an hour or so to heat up food and my Yaris accessory power outlet (cigarette lighter) is only rated to 10 amps (there appears to be a 15 amp fuse though).

QUESTIONS: The only questions seems to be how difficult it would be to do this. Is it easy to make or find a hole in the firewall? I suppose you can just make or solder a connection to the positive battery cable. Is a good ground inside the cab available?

Also can the battery handle a 12 amp draw? (Since the cigarette lighter, power outlet can handle up to 10 amps, it seems like a 12 amp draw on the battery would probably be OK.) According to the owner's manual, the maximum charge rate for the battery is 5 amps.

Thanks,

RMcG
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:19 AM   #2
Ratz
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Drives: 2011 Yaris 4 Dr. Sedan
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I want to add an 12-volt auxiliary power outlet in my Yaris cab that is rated to 15 amps. They sell such things, see link It looks like you essentially run a (red) positive from your battery post through the firewall into your cab and then ground a (black) negative. You can also add a 15 amp in series fuse. I want to add this because I want to use a 12-volt stove that draws 12 amps for an hour or so to heat up food and my Yaris accessory power outlet (cigarette lighter) is only rated to 10 amps (there appears to be a 15 amp fuse though).

Rule of the thumb is you install fuse 125% to 140% of the constant load. Which is about right for your cigarette lighter outlet you are looking at. 15 Amp fuse is there to protect wiring in case of a short not necessarily for your device. Fuse should be installed as close as to power source (battery) as possible.

QUESTIONS: The only questions seems to be how difficult it would be to do this. Is it easy to make or find a hole in the firewall? I suppose you can just make or solder a connection to the positive battery cable. Is a good ground inside the cab available?

If you take the battery out, behind it is a main harness grommet where you can poke the hole though the rubber (be careful that you do not nick any wires) and bring the wire under the dash and then ran it where you desire. It would be a good idea to install inline fuse right at the battery. Cleaner method may be to find a location right in your inside distribution box. As far as the ground goes any metal part of the dash support or behind driver’s door kick panel is good.

Also can the battery handle a 12 amp draw? (Since the cigarette lighter, power outlet can handle up to 10 amps, it seems like a 12 amp draw on the battery would probably be OK.) According to the owner's manual, the maximum charge rate for the battery is 5 amps.

With the engine stopped.
Battery in the car is likely around 150 Amp/hour raring but to be conservative call it 100Amp/Hours.. (Do not confuse this with Cold Cranking Amps). The consumption of your 12 Amp heater would be 12Amps per hour , in other words you would use 12 out of the 100 which would leave you with battery 88% charged (24 Amps per 2 hours which would leave you with battery only 76% charge). The rule of the thumb is do not go lower then 80 % of your battery capacity if you want to be able to start your engine. Automotive type batteries do not take kindly to a frequent discharges and life becomes shortened. Hence the deep cycle batteries are more desirable for this application.
With the engine running.
I do not have a specifications for your alternator output curve, however I am sure it is more then 5 Amps. I would feel very confident that using your device of 12 Amps with engine running would be no issue, especially if you turn down other accessories. (your heater motor speed, turn you fog lamps off, do not use your rear window defogger and so on). You can connect the voltmeter to your battery and with all the load and engine running you should be above 13.9 volt. If you not that means you are not keeping up with the draw.


Hope this shines some light on the subject.
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