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Old 01-16-2009, 08:03 PM   #19
jamal1984
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geez i wish i see this thread earlier so i don't have to pay Big 10 $40 bucks to adjust my handbrake, and clean my drums break... my hand brake now only click twice-max, i can't pull it up anymore. Before it's like 10 clicks.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:54 AM   #20
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Sticky?
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k r a y z e e . j o j o View Post
Good thread. But I'm suppose to re-adjust/re-tighten the e-brake today, so how exactly would I take off the the drum housing without bending it? And also, what's the best way to clean-off the brake dust without removing any important grease? Thanks.
there are if you notice two extra smaller holes in the face of the drum. they are threaded so you can use a bolt and tighten it inward against the hub to free the drum from the backing plate. as you tighten it the drum will slowly come off. this way your not prying anything at all. once its off, i personally use some "brakleen" type solution and spray off all the dust, except for the pad surfaces. dont get any solutions on the pads as they will swell or wear prematurely. as for the backing plate, pins, etc. i use some moly paste (molybdenum disulfide) to grease the backing plate areas where the shoes pivot and operate, as to prevent rust or binding. as before just dont get any grease on the pad surface or inner drum surface. and as a suggestion i also apply moly paste to the hub surface and in the center opening of the drum, this is usually where rust likes to live and grow and makes future removal a pain in the ass. the grease mentioned before is high temp rated and will prevent rust from building up in the area. well thats my 2 cents. hope this helps...
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Old 04-29-2009, 12:12 AM   #22
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I do use the 2 smaller holes a lot of times when i have trouble removing brakes. Only thing is in the DIY i dont expect someone to have 2 spare bolts that are the correct size laying around. And usually if the drum is out of adjustment it should jsut come off very easily. Otherwise a large rubber mallet does wonders as well =).

As for lube if you have never done it before i dont reccomend it because if you get any on the brake pad it will create hotspots on the brake drum. Which is why i only reccomend water to clean out the dust cause any harsh chemical like brake cleaner has the possibility of removing the lube that is already there.

Although i use about 2 cans of brake cleaner on a daily basis. I always use brake clean to clean drums.
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:34 AM   #23
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yarissedan: good writeup, i think i'll do it this afternoon when i get home hehe.

btw, did you ever reedit your post?

just do it for twwards :P
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Old 04-29-2009, 01:44 PM   #24
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oh.. cleaned and adjusted the rear brakes. That was easy. Handbrake pulls ~5 clicks now :)
All i have to do next is fix the front calipers... take them apart, turn the discs, lub the calipers and put everything back...
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:05 PM   #25
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Very nice DIY. Thanks for the effort you went to!
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:24 PM   #26
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Did it on yesterday, it was so exhausted man..haha.. Well now my e-brake only need 3-clicks but I have found my car now have more friction, engine performance dropped, means need more acceleration to move the car. Is that because the brake adjustment makes the car more frictions?
I have double checked the brake shoes have not rubbed with the drum after it adjusted, and the drum on both side with no overheating or burn smell after a day of driving..
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Old 08-08-2009, 11:15 AM   #27
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Just performed this procedure. A rubber mallet works well to loosen the drum without any damage to the drum or backing plate. The primary objective is to loosen the light rust bond between the axle and center of the drum.
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:47 PM   #28
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Just wondering does anyone have the size for those "little bolts" to drive the drum off? I've always used the rubber mallet in the past but just wondering.
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:36 PM   #29
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You can apply some hi temp grease where the hub and drum meet that will make taking apart much easier the next time
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toast View Post
Just wondering does anyone have the size for those "little bolts" to drive the drum off? I've always used the rubber mallet in the past but just wondering.
Don't quote me, but seems like the size I usually use is 8mm x 1.25
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Old 09-01-2009, 02:06 AM   #31
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There are a few parts that are missing to this. When you adjust the brakes you're going to want to take out the actual adjuster and clean that with brake cleaner because alot of gunk builds up on it aswell. When you do this, it will free up the self adjusting process and when you back up and stomp on the brakes it will work to some extent. This doesn't have to be done, but its a good thing to do and only will take like 2 extra mins to clean up the adjuster.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:41 PM   #32
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how often do you need to change brake shoes?
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Old 10-18-2009, 01:55 PM   #33
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YarisSedan...What happen to the pictures? Was going to do this today. Can you please repost. Thanks.

Got it done. Thanks

Last edited by othater; 10-18-2009 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 11-16-2009, 06:36 PM   #34
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If anyone happens to have images for this in thier cache still could you please email them to me at jasonlabar@gmail.com I switch servers for my web hosting and forgot to save some of the files. So all the files got whiped.
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Old 11-16-2009, 07:03 PM   #35
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i'd also be interested in the diy! maybe this could be inducted into an updated one of these? http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3113
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Old 11-16-2009, 07:07 PM   #36
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Well there were pictures up unfortunately they are lost thats why im hoping someone might have viewed it and still ahve images in thier cache before i changed server hosts. Otherwise i might have to redo the diy and take new pictures all over again.
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