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Old 01-03-2017, 10:46 AM   #19
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IF gasoline has contaminated the oil, change everything.

Oil in the cylinders is there to lubricate AND seal the rings to build compression.
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Old 01-03-2017, 06:11 PM   #20
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How do I know though if it is contaminated as when you take the plugs out they aren't exactly oily just wet and smells like petrol
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:27 AM   #21
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Had someone have a look and they seem to think it's an electrical fault somewhere battery is fine but when they tested cables going to ignition coils there was only power indication to one of the wires going into the connector. It was like this on a few different connectors.
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Old 01-16-2017, 09:39 AM   #22
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There is power to only one wire.
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Old 01-16-2017, 01:24 PM   #23
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He said the individual coloured wires that go into the connector there's only power on the end one where each wire should give an indication
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Old 01-16-2017, 01:48 PM   #24
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There should only be 12v on the Black with Red stripe wire. That is the only power source. Black with white wire is ground.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:58 PM   #25
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TBH that makes sense to me still non the wiser as to why the car won't start
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Old 02-27-2017, 03:50 PM   #26
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Well replaced spark plugs and ignition coils and still won't start tried reading fault codes and the reader won't connect to the car reader just keeps restarting did get it to connect once but no codes found (check engine light is on) so I am at a loss.
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:29 PM   #27
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You haven't really said if it's getting spark or not? New coils and plugs won't help if computer isn't telling coils to fire. If you are sure the cam sensor is good, check the crank sensor, if it's good then it is most likely something wrong with wiring, grounds or the ecm it's self.
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Old 02-28-2017, 06:13 PM   #28
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I have tried to check spark but can't see from the drivers door so need to find someone to stand and check or turn key so I can check. As for cam sensor and crank sensor I can't get the code reader to display any codes so I have no idea if these are any good I replaced the cam sensor a while ago with a second hand one pulled from a t sport that was being broken as it was showing as a fault. How would I test these parts with not having any codes displayed to indicate a problem.
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Old 03-04-2017, 08:19 PM   #29
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You can remove sensors connect a volt meter to then set on ohms, then move a piece iron or steel in front of it and meter should show current each time iron is moved past sensor.
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Old 03-04-2017, 08:28 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jra View Post
You can remove sensors connect a volt meter to then set on ohms, then move a piece iron or steel in front of it and meter should show current each time iron is moved past sensor.
You won't read current set on Ohms. To read current you need to set it to amps. To read voltage you need to set it to AC volts on a low scale.

But each sensor will have a resistance measurement according to the repair manual. The best place to measure this is at the connecter of the ECU. That way you are reading any problems with the wire harness along with the sensor
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