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Old 06-08-2015, 05:03 PM   #1
tmontague
 
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tip for removing seized outer tie rods

I was replacing the both inner and one outer tie rod on my Echo and found an easy way to remove a seized outer tie rod.

Since I was replacing it, I tried whacking it with a hammer and a rubber mallet, neither worked. I reinstalled the castle nut half way and went for a drive hitting every bump I could, still no luck.

I then took an impact gun and tightened the castle nut extremely tight and then loosened it. The tie rod dropped right out of the hole.

Over tightening it allows you to use the threads to break the seal between the two parts. Once that happens you can loosen it and it will come right out.

I never found this advice anywhere online but it worked very easy and doesn't damage the boot like a pickle fork sometimes does.
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:39 PM   #2
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Best option is to hit it in the red circle with a steel hammer. The steering arm will distort, and apply force to the taper which will make the tie rod jump out of the hole. This works for almost all tapered joints.

Cheers.
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:41 AM   #3
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Tried that, I think these were the original tie rods w/ 352,000'm on them.

The outer was replaced due to a torn boot and the inners had slight play when shaking the wheel at 3 and 9:00 but no symptoms during driving. I more of less wanted the experience of doing them as I had to do the one outer and am already getting an alignment since i'm doing the struts this weekend
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:50 AM   #4
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Why not use a pickle fork?
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:38 AM   #5
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Damages the boot and I didn't want to have to drive out to the parts store and pay $30 for one when I had air tools. This works well if you are resusing the outer tie rod like I did for one of them
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:59 AM   #6
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They do make a tool for this. $27 at Princess Auto. :) No boot damage.
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:25 AM   #7
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True, I have a puller that I totally forgot to try. Either way using an air tool to tighten and then loosen is quicker, easier and safe for the boot. I'd use that over an tool seeing how quick it was
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Old 06-09-2015, 03:55 PM   #8
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The puller works okay on the Yaris, except the tie rod stud is relatively small (M10?) and is cored out for a cotter pin. Not much material to work with and easy to crush if it's in there really bad. If you use a tie rod/ball joint puller that works on a pressure screw, thread the castle nut back on to add rigidity.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:45 PM   #9
ex-x-fire
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Damages the boot and I didn't want to have to drive out to the parts store and pay $30 for one when I had air tools. This works well if you are resusing the outer tie rod like I did for one of them
So you are telling me you don't mind stretching/stripping threads on the outer tie rod? And then you reuse it?
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:50 PM   #10
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I'd rather risk stretching/strippin threads than an almost for sure damage to the seal. I have different tourque settings on my impact gun so stripped threads never came close to happening. Slightly stretched threads are not a big issue on an outer tie rod.

No one has given a single solution that causes no damage to a seized tie rod as one doesn't exist.
As soon as someone offers a faster easier and less damaging method all of a sudde every other way is suddenly better and everything about the mentioned way is damaging.

It's a tip to help out shade tree mechanics like myself. If you don't like it, don't use it and stick with a $30 pickle fork, simple
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:54 PM   #11
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I normally smoke the point marker in picture with a hammer... if it doesn't come free I hit it like it owes me money haha. But seriously tho u wont break it either way. It will eventually pop free.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:57 PM   #12
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If your looking for a "clean" way hold another hammer against point of impact and strike hammer.
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