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Old 05-09-2007, 04:02 PM   #91
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ZPI has had quality control issues in the past and their pulley is heavier than the NST. That along with Chino's recommendation helped me choose the NST over ZPI and I couldn't be happier. Improved MPG, more midrange to top-end power, and no "noise". Oh also I don't know who said this, but the stock pulley doesn't have any rubber on it. I think a dealer told them this. It's
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Old 06-23-2007, 06:12 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eTiMaGo View Post

Of course, the disadvantage of removing rotational mass in a 4-cylinder daily driver is the idle quality. The engine needs the heavy weight of the flywheel to keep it going during the 3 non-power strokes. So, when you reduce this mass, the engine will slow down between rotations, and at a lower engine speed (idling), this can make things very rough, even stall the engine.
The engine fires a piston on every rotation. 4 stroke, 4 piston..............

Why the need for a heavy flywheel? Light means quick acceleration and quick deceleration. Comes down to how the driver manages the car............
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:00 PM   #93
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hey don't know if someone may have asked this already but how do you keep the stock pulley from turning when you are loosening the bolt.
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:07 PM   #94
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hey don't know if someone may have asked this already but how do you keep the stock pulley from turning when you are loosening the bolt.
The main way is use an air impact wrench.
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:09 PM   #95
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k... i mean i guess i understand that part, and i can use one of those from work but i just assumed the pulley would still turn to the left whether using a ratchet or impact unless you hold it in place with something.
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:02 PM   #96
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Not really....with enough force the impact hits it so hard it will spin it right off. I hit mine and it started to turn so I stopped and hit it again...it's technique and if you use them at work shouldn't be a problem. Just get it loose and use fingers to take off. Don't lose track of the little pin and be sure to re-install it.
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:05 PM   #97
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lol... well i don't actually use them. those just aren't really in my job description. nevertheless i will give it a shot. wasn't sure but now i know.

thank you much.
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:42 PM   #98
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Getting it off is cake... The real difficult part is torqueing down the bolt to 128ft/lbs when putting the new pully on.
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:39 PM   #99
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The real difficult part is torqueing down the bolt to 128ft/lbs
it's not that i doubt you but where did you get this amount from? is that really what it needs to be torqued down at?
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Old 02-16-2009, 07:56 AM   #100
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That is the torque amount called for....and what I would recommend. Now how to get it there with a big old torque wrench in the small confines is the problem. Ahem....tell you what I did....after replacing with the NST pulley, and replacing the little dowel pin and with the threads on the crank and nut all clean checked by securing on the crank by hand several times....I placed a couple of drops of loctite close to the nuts final resting point and by hand ran it all the way and then hit it hard with the air impact wrench. Just remember to take your time, try it a few times for feel, make sure it goes back the way it came off (just replacing a wheel, nothing else), drop or 2 of Loctite and don't crossthread (why I ran it all the way by hand before impact wrench).

Disclaimer: Torque to limit as specified.
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Old 02-16-2009, 05:16 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by Klink10 View Post
That is the torque amount called for....and what I would recommend. Now how to get it there with a big old torque wrench in the small confines is the problem. Ahem....tell you what I did....after replacing with the NST pulley, and replacing the little dowel pin and with the threads on the crank and nut all clean checked by securing on the crank by hand several times....I placed a couple of drops of loctite close to the nuts final resting point and by hand ran it all the way and then hit it hard with the air impact wrench. Just remember to take your time, try it a few times for feel, make sure it goes back the way it came off (just replacing a wheel, nothing else), drop or 2 of Loctite and don't crossthread (why I ran it all the way by hand before impact wrench).

Disclaimer: Torque to limit as specified.
I guarantee you’re not the only one to use an impact... People should know that different impact wrenches vary widely in their power output. It's probably unlikely anyone could strip the threads in the crankshaft or bolt (by over-tightening) because of the materials and size, but no-one wants to damage their new (aluminum) pulley. Just be sure to check the torque outputs on your air wrench; If your wrench has three settings, it's very likely you'll only need to use power I or II.

Many on this forum will be appalled by using a torque wrench to tighten anything, but as always, if you know a better way please share.
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:02 PM   #102
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hmmm... well today i was off work but really wanted to give this a go so i went to a hardware store and bought an electrical impact wrench just to see. work for me is 90 miles away and i don't usually make a habit of taking my car out that way because i can just ride with the welder i work with anyway. i figured buying a power impact wrench to save me from putting 180 miles on my car was a fair trade. i thought hell i might even get some other uses out of it anyway.

well of course it didn't go as planned... had the car jacked up, wheel off, alternator loosened from the bracket and everything (AGAIN) but the thing just wouldn't budge. so that kinda sucks. guess i will just break down and drive to work tomorrow to use the air impact. a half want to just say screw it and pay someone else to do it cause i'm kinda getting tired of mucking with it at this point. i just had no idea that thing would be on there that dang tight.
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Old 02-17-2009, 08:51 PM   #103
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Many on this forum will be appalled by using a torque wrench to tighten anything, but as always, if you know a better way please share.[/QUOTE]

No I don't at least in regards to the crank pulley and yea I would and did check my air wrench output when I did mine. You put it better though in regards to the topic. I hope they get it right either way.
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:06 PM   #104
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I'm going to be installing the crank pulley soon myself, and was wondering....


Couldn't you just put the car in gear (manual trans), and have a friend step on the brakes while you loosen or torque down the crank bolt? The clutch would hold under 128 ft.lbs. right?

IMO I wouldn't do this mod without a torque wrench...too loose and you could really F-up the crank itself when/if the bolt backs out...plus a loss of the crank pulley will kill the power to the car once the battery dies, leaving you stranded.
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:57 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by jkuchta View Post
I'm going to be installing the crank pulley soon myself, and was wondering....


Couldn't you just put the car in gear (manual trans), and have a friend step on the brakes while you loosen or torque down the crank bolt? The clutch would hold under 128 ft.lbs. right?

IMO I wouldn't do this mod without a torque wrench...too loose and you could really F-up the crank itself when/if the bolt backs out...plus a loss of the crank pulley will kill the power to the car once the battery dies, leaving you stranded.
You could try that....I can't say as I was dealing with an automatic. Chino's DIY at the beginning mentioned tying the pulley down to secure. In the end however he used a air impact gun. The problem with a torque wrench is the limited amount of space to work with and the availability of such a tool to most of the folks doing this mod. I can say that I've done this twice starting with the reg light pulley and then going to the underdrive. On both occasions it took the impact to get it off, which means the impact did its job in putting it on along with a drop of Loctite.
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:49 PM   #106
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Sorry to bump an old thread. I know there was a time when the crank pulley served as part of the crank balance on engines. Is there a risk with this Lite pulley throwing off the reciprocating mass and shortening engine life? Why wouldn't Toyota have just made a pulley like this OEM?
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:44 PM   #107
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Yes ^ don't do it.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:39 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regal View Post
Sorry to bump an old thread. I know there was a time when the crank pulley served as part of the crank balance on engines. Is there a risk with this Lite pulley throwing off the reciprocating mass and shortening engine life? Why wouldn't Toyota have just made a pulley like this OEM?
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