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Old 11-10-2015, 11:50 AM   #253
lormagni
 
Drives: Toyota Yaris 1.33 SR
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Anyone knows if this mod is possible also on the 3rd generation Yaris? I saw the hole, but i don't know if it's threaded inside like the 2nd gen
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:13 PM   #254
SirDigby
 
Drives: 2007 yaris 3 door
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it's not that big of a deal if it's not threaded, just get the ol' tap and die set out and make it so...
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:13 PM   #255
tmontague
 
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Alright, I'm bringing this thread back form the dead with some hopefully helpful hints and updates.

I stumbled upon this thread last week and switched my axle yesterday. I am currently running MI lowering springs and Tokiko Blue's in the rear. I have a custom exhaust that already hit the axle (I'm getting a new one made in a month) so other than the axle still hitting the exhaust on bumps, there doesn't seem to be any extra impacts (gas tank etc).

The rear end feels like it is sitting much lower when I am driving the car and the turn in is much more improved. It's too the point where I found myself over turning on high speed sweeping turns like off ramps. The car doesn't actually sit any lower, it just feels this way. The rear suspension also feels slightly stiffer now and the highway stability has seemed to improve

As others have stated, this likely changes the toe of the rear to proper factory specs which improves it's planted feel and turn in. The increased stiffness likely has to do with the angle that the springs are now compressed in relation to the pivot point of the rear axle.

These are my alignment specs from a month ago


If you are doing this mod I'd recommend a tap to clear out the rusted threaded hole. I have an '08 and at first I thought that there were no threads. Turns out rust and oil spray were covering them and the bolts wouldn't thread it would just spin. The bolts have a 1/4" or so of threadless space at the tip which was the reason it was just spinning. The bolt threads couldn't grab the threads in the hole since they were all gummed up. The threadless part allows you to safely tap the bolt into position if need be without damaging the threads, just don't go ape on it.

I didn't have a tap of the correct size so I use a ton of PB blaster to push out any dissolved rust as well as a long air nozzle to spray out any loose rust. I put anti seize on the bolt and used a ratchet to slowly tighten a bit and loosen a bit. Then I'd remove the bolt and flush it with PB blaster. This took about 20 minutes a side (didn't want to damage the threads) but if you had a tap it would take 2 mins as the rust would have a place to go in the grooves of the tap instead of jamming up the threads.

I figured out a convenient trick to getting the axle bushings lined up with the new hole. I used an extra axle stand and a long pry bar, the axle stand gave me a fulcrum where there previously wasn't one. I had the car sitting on jack stands and a jack was placed under the center of the axle so I could move it how I wanted. I then used the pry bar and the bolt to line up the hole. I covered the whole bolt in antiseize before I reinstalled them. Torqued them down to 62 ft/lbs when I put weight on the axle via the jack.





My bolts were in good shape when I pulled them out, minimal to no rust. I covered the old empty hole and areas around with an anti rust spray



All in all I'm happy with the mod, especially since it cost nothing. For anyone with a 2010 or higher who said they don't seem to have threads. Make sure you spray out the hole with a penetrant and stick your finger or something to actually feel for threads. I almost convinced myself that mine didn't have any with how much crap was on them. Worst case scenario you could always use a tap and cut your own.
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