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Old 11-24-2018, 11:52 PM   #1
stormhighway
 
Drives: 2010 Yaris sedan
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 7
Dealer: $1,800 to replace rear ABS speed sensors on 2010 Yaris sedan

My 2010 Yaris sedan hit 266,000 miles this month. The ABS, Traction Control/ESC and brake lights on the dash lit up a day after a big snowstorm here. Driving during that storm, the ABS activated normally dozens of times at lights, stop signs, etc.

A day after the storm, the ABS activated twice on dry pavement while slowing to a stop in a parking lot (low speed). Not long afterward, the aforementioned dash lights came on.

I took it to the dealer for diagnostics. The codes indicated both rear ABS sensors were bad. The sensor and hub are one inseparable unit. The quote to repair was $1,800 with *no promise it would fix the problem*. Both rear hubs have been replaced before, the driver's side in 2013 and the passenger side in 2017 - both due to bearing failure. There have been no ABS issues with the car before. The OEM hub has a 12-month warranty, so both are not covered now.

I declined the repair, took the car home and removed the wheels myself. I could have easily removed the hubs, but didn't have a 9/16" wrench that could take the torque needed to remove the hub bolts. The OEM part is $320, aftermarket ones are much cheaper.

Reading the forum, I see that pin corrosion is a common cause of this failure. But both sensors going bad at the same time, including one Toyota OEM just 16 months old?

It seems this is an easy DIY if I buy the parts and install them myself. But that $1,000 labor quote to swap them out at the dealer - why so much? Am I missing something else that needs to be done to this system to justify so much labor cost?
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Old 11-25-2018, 09:20 AM   #2
06YarisRS
 
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Your pins should not be corroded if your wheel hubs/sensors were replaced with new that recently, unless they were non-OEM, inferior parts. I would make a real noise at your dealership if OEM parts were used and have failed so soon. Trust me, dealers will be flexible if you make enough noise.

You can replace the sensors in the rear wheel bearings. Toyota won't likely sell you them as they would sell you the whole hub assembly. They may not even stock the sensor itself. I temporarily repaired my broken/corroded pin in my driver's side hub sensor with a clipped needle. That was months ago and I've not had the abs light come back on. Removing the hub is not bad, but does take a chisel or sharp screwdriver and hammer to separate the hub from the knuckle after the bolts are removed. $1800.00 is a lot and they probably include extra time for difficult bolt removal due to corrosion etc.

Here are some available sensors. You would need to remove it from the hub and press it back in. Regardless, a DIY on this will save you a huge amount of $$. Another option is to buy the parts and take them to a small shop and have them installed. In any case, put some corrision inhibitor, or dielectric grease in the connector that plugs into the speed sensor. Although you are a lot farther south than me, I expect that there is a lot of salt poured on the roads in Missouri. The plugs don't keep moisture/salt out and the corrosion process is fast and they don't dry out quickly.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/to...ed+sensor,1912

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OE-89544-52...-/331777003179

EDIT: If you do decide to DIY this job, removal of the speed sensor cable plugs is a little tricky. There is a plastic clip that needs to be slightly rotated before you can pull the plug. Be careful as although it's reasonable sturdy, I broke one. I just used a ziptie to hold the plug in place. Also, from my research, the driver's side rear sensor is the one that goes bad most often. Although it's not impossible that both sensors would go out at the same time - causing the MIL to come on - it seems unlikely. Did all the codes that Toyota came up with pertain specifically to speed sensors? To confirm that it is actually an open circuit at your speed sensors, you could check by following what I did in this thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...t=speed+sensor

Finally, if you go DIY on this, I would liberally soak your wheel bearing bolts - on both sides - with a penetrant (PB Blaster, WD40 or ReleasAll) a few times a couple of days apart before removal. Access to the threaded ends of the bolts is easy from underneath facing the wheel.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 11-25-2018 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 11-26-2018, 06:59 AM   #3
IllusionX
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I had problems with mine at one point. Clean them best I could, added some grease inside and lights stayed off ever since.

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Old 11-26-2018, 07:02 PM   #4
stormhighway
 
Drives: 2010 Yaris sedan
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Thank you! I am going to try and do this myself once we get a day of good weather here. The biggest obstacle will be getting the bolts off that hold the hub in place. They would not budge when I tried earlier, I'd have broken my socket wrench if I had kept trying. I will see if I can find a striking wrench or something more heavy duty to use.
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Old 11-27-2018, 11:57 PM   #5
IllusionX
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You don't need to remove the hub. Jack the car, look behind, you will see a wire going into the hub assembly. That's your ABS sensor.

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Old 12-05-2018, 09:01 PM   #6
stormhighway
 
Drives: 2010 Yaris sedan
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Update: Decided to try replacing the driver's side hub myself, since it is the older part and more likely to be the failing one. I bought an aftermarket hub from Auto Zone ($149). I could not get the drum off of the hub, however, after hammering on it for 20 minutes.

Took it to Firestone to have them do it. Initially they would not, said policy was to only use parts they order themselves. However they agreed to do it this time (I'm a regular customer there for my tires). Labor was $150.

Voilà, the ABS and brake lights on the dash went out, and my ABS is working again. Total cost $300.
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:47 PM   #7
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormhighway View Post
Update: Decided to try replacing the driver's side hub myself, since it is the older part and more likely to be the failing one. I bought an aftermarket hub from Auto Zone ($149). I could not get the drum off of the hub, however, after hammering on it for 20 minutes.

Took it to Firestone to have them do it. Initially they would not, said policy was to only use parts they order themselves. However they agreed to do it this time (I'm a regular customer there for my tires). Labor was $150.

Voilà, the ABS and brake lights on the dash went out, and my ABS is working again. Total cost $300.
For future reference, turn your brake star adjusters back which will loosen the brake shoes. Then get two small bolts - m8 x 1.25, I believe - screw these into the two holes in the drum with ratchet or wrench and it will pop right off.

Still, $150.00 for labour isn't bad, actually. What's the warranty on the Autozone aftermarket hub assembly?
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:36 PM   #8
stormhighway
 
Drives: 2010 Yaris sedan
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: St. Louis
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One year warranty on the part (Duralast).

The tech said he had a time getting the bolts off of the hub. I bought an impact socket wrench to do it but didn't get that far.

Firestone initially quoted over $600 for part and labor together, so I was very happy with $150.
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Old 09-20-2019, 07:35 PM   #9
stormhighway
 
Drives: 2010 Yaris sedan
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Location: St. Louis
Posts: 7
Update: the bearings in the Duralast hub I installed in December of last year have failed. Granted, I have put a lot of miles on the car (40,000 since then) but it failed before the warranty period was up. ABS sensor still works
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Old 09-20-2019, 08:27 PM   #10
06YarisRS
 
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Yeah, as expensive as Timken and SKF are, they should be much more durable. I've seen pretty good prices on both occasionally on eBay or rockauto.
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2008 Yaris LE H&R 10mm spacers (rear), RS rear spoiler
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Old 09-22-2019, 06:14 PM   #11
stormhighway
 
Drives: 2010 Yaris sedan
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: St. Louis
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Update 2: Had the repair scheduled for this week. The bearing went from the usual low grinding noise (indicating the bearing going bad) to sudden catastrophic failure. Wheel became detached and brake hardware disintegrated, draining brake fluid and causing the near complete loss of braking function. Thankfully occurred at low speed, but at 318,000 miles, this is the end of my Yaris.

The Duralast hub went from no noise or symptoms to catastrophic failure in 2 days and about 25 miles.
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Old 09-22-2019, 08:12 PM   #12
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormhighway View Post
Update 2: Had the repair scheduled for this week. The bearing went from the usual low grinding noise (indicating the bearing going bad) to sudden catastrophic failure. Wheel became detached and brake hardware disintegrated, draining brake fluid and causing the near complete loss of braking function. Thankfully occurred at low speed, but at 318,000 miles, this is the end of my Yaris.

The Duralast hub went from no noise or symptoms to catastrophic failure in 2 days and about 25 miles.
Sorry to hear that. Glad it was at low speed and you didn't get hurt. I've used some duralast parts such as brake rotors, pads etc, but, yeah, something like a wheel bearing, I'd minimally use Moog, Mevotech but would always prefer OEM, Timken or SKF. There seems to be a plethora of wheel bearing manufacturers that offer products that won't last. In this case, it really seems to be a 'get what you pay for' scenario. 318000 miles is a fair bit, but is the car not worth fixing?
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