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Old 10-28-2015, 12:07 PM   #1
tmontague
 
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Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
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diy HID projector w/ halo headlight install

I recently wired up my HID projectors and Halos on my Yaris and realized that there is not a Yairs specific DIY that outlines what to do for the electrical newbie.

I used this DIY as a way to learn more about how car electrical works and to become more comfortable with it. Use this DIY at your own risk, this is to be used as a guideline to assist you, not as textbook to teach you car electrical.

DO NO INSTALL hid'S WITHOUT PROJECTORS - please don't be "that guy", if you want to look good and see better then do it properly without dangerously blinding others on the road.

These lights are significantly brighter than stock ans greatly improve visibility. I was very impressed with the results.

Your kit you purchased (I recommend Kitchener HID, that's where I purchased mine from and they were priced very good and were a ton of help, find them on Facebook or contact user "TheBarber" on this forum) should come with the electrical wiring similar to the image below



Except if you also purchased halo's with your projectors then you will have 4 wires with connectors coming from the housing. 2 main connectors for the HID bulb which go into the ballast. One thinner wire with small connector that connects into another connector coming from the controller(relay) which controls the hi/low shield. And the 4th or extra connector is a positive and negative that goes into the led's for the halo. I'll get into wiring the halos last.

I am not going to get into the nitty gritty specific of opening the headlights, there are enough threads on this forum already on that. I'll go over it briefly.

Remove the headlight lens by baking them in the oven for 7-10mins on 220 F. I put them on a cooking sheet with a damp dish towel underneath. Once apart start to disassemble the inner headlight shields. I then lightly sanded the shields and painted them satin black with 4 coats of plastic paint in a rattle can. I didn't like the bright silver color and I felt the black looks much better especially on my dark Yaris.

Once dry, test fit your Projector housings. My projectors were too big so I had to dremmel the crap out of the lower plastic (the one that goes above the turn signal). I went back and fourth for a couple hours until all the plastic I needed was dremmel'd away. I then screwed back all of the interior shields and parts. I then reheated the lens and headlight housing to soften the sealant. I removed them out of the oven and installed the projectors and them pressed the lens back into the headlight housing. Screwed the screws in and made sure all of the clips were closed that hold the lens on.

Note* I did not purchase extra sealant like 3M window weld. I would recommend you do, my lenses have yet to leak or fog up but I may end up resealing these a couple years down the road as there is not a ton of sealant in the housing from the factory once you remove them.

If you purchase H1 mini projectors then you won't have to dremmel but they are smaller and not a bold IMO. Due to the projector not fitting perfectly and the shape of the back of the headlight shield, I had to only use one washer instead of the 2 that came with the projectors. I also had to flip the concave washer around so that there was enough threads to hold the projector in the housing securely.

the two main HID bulb wires I routed directly out of the back of the projector housing (the only way they can be routed as that's where they come out of) The hi/low wires and halo wires that come out of the bottom of the back of the projector housing I ran through the opening made from dremmeling to the back with the mian HID bulb wires. If you do not dremmel due to purchasing a smaller projector, you may have to drill a hole on the housing/shield to run the wires out of the housing and behind the headlight.

Start wiring:

Remove your right (passenger) side headlight fuse, this will stop power going to an empty exposed connector.

On the ground place the wiring in a way that will be set up in the car so that it makes sense to you.

***disconnect the battery negative terminal when doing electrical work on your car...seriously don't fry the ECU or anything else, you will thank me for this.

Attach the metal loop from the wire (usually red) with the fuse attached to it to the positive battery terminal.


place the controller/relay down near the air box and stretch the rest o the wires out where they're supposed to go. Ignore the Halo box and wires for now and just leave it un attached for now. It's easiest to fully remove the bumper (especially when wiring halos) but you can also leave it slightly removed.


Once wires are set up appropriately where they'll be going you can start connecting things.

There is a male 3 prong connector from the kit that will need to be plugged into the main oem 3 prong headlight female connector on the car on the drivers side.



Connect the ground (one for each side/headlight) to the 10mm bolt that is sitting on the metal rail just above the headlight housing. It's the perfect distance to where you need it.


Connect the appropriate wires from the controller/relay to the ballasts. Then connect the wire connectors from the controller/relay to the connectors on the projector (if you purchase hi/low projectors).

Place headlight close to their normal location and plug in HID bulbs.

You should only have one connector on each projectors that is not connected, this is for the halos which we'll do later. (in the image this is the connector with the white wire)


connect negative terminal wire and turn on the lights. They should work if everything is wired properly. I had a bad/faulty ballast from the factory that fried my controller by allowing too much current through, so my lights wouldn't work. Barber was great and warrantied them and had some extra's so I picked up a new ballast and a new controller and everything lit up.

If everything works move on to wiring the halos. If the lights aren't going on, check your left (driver side) headlight fuse and check that your power, grounds, 3 prong headlight connector, ballasts and bulbs are all plugged in.

Now, the HID's are currently wired to go on as your DRL's, meaning they are essentially always on (as long as your handbreak is down). I only wanted my halos on as DRL's so I disabled my DRL's (well Barber did but he showed me how).

Move your driver seat all the way back to give yourself space. Equipped with a headlamp or flashlight lie on your back and look up under the steering wheel. Stop and think how funny you look. Looking up, with your feet facing the back of the car on your left side (side closest to the radio) you will see a white rectangle connector with around 10 or so various colored wired coming from it. Once of those wires would be orange. Disconnect the white connector. If you now go to start the car and release your e-brake you should have no lights on.

Now disconnect the negative battery terminal. Plug the black boxes into the Halo connector from the projectors (headlights are still not installed just sitting where the normally go.

From the black box you will have a regular black and red wire with no connectors on them. These are the ground and power respectively. To light these up as DRL's you nee to find a 12V ignition source (meaning it's powered all the time the ignition is on). The easiest most straight forward 12 V ignition source in the engine bay without having to go through the firewall is the windshield washer motor blue wire (green is ground)

With the bumper completely removed look on the bottom of the washer fluid reservoir. You will see two connectors going into black things on the reservoir. The top one is the fluid level sensor, the white wire gives you 9v. Do not tap into this one*** I did and I wasted too much time as it drops down to 1v once tapped into and will not power your halos and will trigger your windshield fluid warning light.

Instead, look on the lower connector, you will so a green and blue wire. remove the plug and using a multimeter test the blue wire by sticking your red prong into the connector where the blue wire goes and the black prong onto the engine block (not painted not rusted part). You should read around 12v, make sure your negative battery terminal is connected for this and key is turned to ignition. You should read 0v with ignition in the off position.


I used the following to tap into the wires:
T-taps, red and black 18g wire, butt connectors, heat shrink tubing, loop electrical wire ends (to secure to ground), crimper (came w/ my multimeter set), plastic 1/4" plastic protective tubing, zip ties, dielectric grease.

You want to check each wire you tap with your voltmeter and ignition on to make sure the wire is properly tapped and reading 12v.

Fill your t-tap holes with dielectric grease (weather proofs it) place T tap over blue windshield washer motor wire (unplug battery just in case) then cut a span of red wire that will be long enough to fit across your engine bay.

put the end of that newly cut red wire (doesn't need to be stripped) into the other hole in the T tap that does not go all of the way through the tap. Push the wire in as far as it goes. Take pliers and squeeze the metal "tap" all the way down onto the wires. Cover metal tap with the attached plastic clip and click it in place. Now use your multimeter and test the end of the newly connected red wire.

With the ignition on it should read ~12v. If it reads 0 then you need to check your t-tap, you may not have pushed down hard enough. If it read 12v then move on to tapping more wires.

Cut a short 6" piece of red wire. Use a new T-tap and tap into the long red wire you just connected. You should tap into the wire so that the 6" red wire is very close to behind your passenger headlight.


Slide heatshrink tube over the newly connected 6" red wire. Then splice about 1cm of the end of the 6" red wire. Put a butt connector over it. Then take the red wire from the halo box that is connected to the projector and stick that also into the butt connector. Use your crimps and press down to crimp it. I crimped the butt connector in 3 places. Lightly tug the 2 wires and make sure they are snug in the connector. Slide your heatshrink tube over the connector (do not heat yet, wait until wiring is good)

Now go to your driver side. The end of the long red wire you first connected need to be connected to the red wire coming from the halo box on your passenger light. Use a butt connector to do this and follow the same procedures as above. You're close to being done. (In the below image you cannot see the butt connector as it is covered with the plastic tubing.)

Now wire your grounds:

Use a butt connector and connect the black wire from the halo box to a 8" piece of 18g black wire you will have to cut.

Install a loop wire end to the end of the 8" black wire by crimping it in 2 places. You will have to strip the end of the wire for this. To make the crimp more secure I stripped a longer 2cm part of the wire end and doubled it back on itself. I then put it in the connector and crimped it. Test it to make sure it snug. I cut heat shrink tube in half and slid each small piece on the wire before I crimped it. This allowed me to heat shrink the crimped part of the wire which keep it looking clean.

Connect the grounds you just made to the same ground used by the HID grounds.

Connected the battery and put the key in the ignition. The halos should turn on. I used a 9v battery and tested the halos before I did the wiring. I just connected the black and red wire from the halo box to the 9x batter while it was connected to the halo connector.

To better improve the weather proofing I am going to use liquid electrical tape and over the ends of the heatshrink on the butt connectors as my heatshrink was a little big and didn't fully seal the ends. I am also going to use rescue tape and completely seal the t-taps.

*EDIT - I just used liquid electrical tape to cover the exposed wire from when I tapped the wrong wire. I also used rescue tape (silicone tape) and wrapped it around all of the wire taps and butt connectors to water proof them. I used the liquid tape of till the holes for the wires going into the controlling boxes as well as silicone taped the bottom of the rubber shield going out of the controller/relay and filled the middle with liquid tape prior to taping. This stops any water from going inside. I also covered any long running wires with plastic tubing to protect them long term.

This probably isn't necessary but I want everything to look clean and have no risk of getting wet or corroded from the salt.

If everything works properly then go ahead and use a heat gun or hot blow dryer to heat the heatshrink tubing. Then use zip ties to secure to ballasts the best you can. You can also secure the controller/relay. I'll take pics of what screw I used to secure mine. Make sure the controller is facing down so that water doesn't run into it from the bottom and short it all out. I'm going to use rescue tape and seal the bottom better as the rubber boot it came with isn't very tight.

You cannot really see the halos due to the camera, but this is just under the DRL's which are only the halos turned on.


You could drill into the frame to secure everything. I avoided that due to me driving in the salt belt, I'd rather used plastic zip ties which only need to e periodically checked, then risk rust damaging the frame. If you do drill into the frame and use self taping screws make sure you use rust converter and/or primer and let it dry well before you screw down anything.

I'll also be polishing my headlights as they're all scratched up. I'm using this method as it is a great way to keep them looking clear https://youtu.be/UEJbKLZ7RmM

*EDIT - I did the headlight polish tonight and it didn't turn out too well. I rushed the original HID install so I have some oil and plastic dremmel shavings on the inside of my lenses which leave them looking a bit dirty. I also didn't sand nearly enough of the outside of the lenses so they are not as clear as they should be. I will be redoing the inside and outside of the lenses next summer but for now they are protected with 6 coats of clear coat and are more than clear enough for my HID's for the winter.

Don't let electrical work scare you, just learn as much as you can before hand, have a multimeter and take your time. When in doubt keep the battery disconnected.

EDIT* If you don't have a spare set of headlight housings then I'd recommend you wire up everything temporarily (not the halos) and test plug the HID bulbs into the connectors and see if they turn on. This way you don't go through it all like I did and then have an issue from the factory and now you have no headlights
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Last edited by tmontague; 11-01-2015 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:38 PM   #2
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The bi-xenons work very well without projectors. Cut off is almost perfect, and does not bleed.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:49 PM   #3
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yup, but for HID's projectors are for sure needed
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:49 PM   #4
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Awesome write-up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
please don't be "that guy"


Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
"TheBarber"
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Old 10-28-2015, 02:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
I recently wired up my HID projectors and Halos on my Yaris and realized that there is not a Yairs specific DIY that outlines what to do for the elctrical newbie.

I will follow up with pictures that I'll be taking this weekend to complete this DIY, for now there will not be many pics.

I used this DIY as a way to learn more about how car electrical works and to become more comfortable with it. Use this DIY at your own risk, this is to be used as a guideline to assist you, not as textbook to teach you car electrical.

DO NO INSTALL hid'S WITHOUT PROJECTORS - please don't be "that guy", if you want to look good and see better then do it properly without dangerously blinding others on the road.

These lights are significantly brighter than stock ans greatly improve visibility. I was very impressed with the results.

Your kit you purchased (I recommend Kitchener HID, that's where I purchased mine from and they were priced very good and were a ton of help, find them on Facebook or contact user "TheBarber" on this forum) should come with the electrical wiring similar to the image below



Except if you also purchased halo's with your projectors then you will have 4 wires with connectors coming from the housing. 2 main connectors for the HID bulb which go into the ballast. One thinner wire with small connector that connects into another connector coming from the controller(relay) which controls the hi/low shield. And the 4th or extra connector is a positive and negative that goes into the led's for the halo. I'll get into wiring the halos last.

I am not going to get into the nitty gritty specific of opening the headlights, there are enough threads on this forum already on that. I'll go over it briefly.

Remove the headlight lens by baking them in the oven for 7-10mins on 220 F. I put them on a cooking sheet with a damp dish towel underneath. Once apart start to disassemble the inner headlight shields. I then lightly sanded the shields and painted them satin black with 4 coats of plastic paint in a rattle can. I didn't like the bright silver color and I felt the black looks much better especially on my dark Yaris.

Once dry, test fit your Projector housings. My projectors were too big so I had to dremmel the crap out of the lower plastic (the one that goes above the turn signal). I went back and fourth for a couple hours until all the plastic I needed was dremmel'd away. I then screwed back all of the interior shields and parts. I then reheated the lens and headlight housing to soften the sealant. I removed them out of the oven and installed the projectors and them pressed the lens back into the headlight housing. Screwed the screws in and made sure all of the clips were closed that hold the lens on.

Note* I did not purchase extra sealant like 3M window weld. I would recommend you do, my lenses have yet to leak or fog up but I may end up resealing these a couple years down the road as there is not a ton of sealant in the housing from the factory once you remove them.

If you purchase H1 mini projectors then you won't have to dremmel but they are smaller and not a bold IMO. Due to the projector not fitting perfectly and the shape of the back of the headlight shield, I had to only use one washer instead of the 2 that came with the projectors. I also had to flip the concave washer around so that there was enough threads to hold the projector in the housing securely.

the two main HID bulb wires I routed directly out of the back of the projector housing (the only way they can be routed as that's where they come out of) The hi/low wires and halo wires that come out of the bottom of the back of the projector housing I ran through the opening made from dremmeling to the back with the mian HID bulb wires. If you do not dremmel due to purchasing a smaller projector, you may have to drill a hole on the housing/shield to run the wires out of the housing and behind the headlight.

Start wiring:

Remove your right (passenger) side headlight fuse, this will stop power going to an empty exposed connector.

On the ground place the wiring in a way that will be set up in the car so that it makes sense to you.

***disconnect the battery negative terminal when doing electrical work on your car...seriously don't fry the ECU or anything else, you will thank me for this.

Attach the metal loop from the wire (usually red) with the fuse attached to it to the positive battery terminal.

place the controller/relay down near the air box and stretch the rest o the wires out where they're supposed to go. Ignore the Halo box and wires for now and just leave it un attached for now. It's easiest to fully remove the bumper (especially when wiring halos) but you can also leave it slightly removed.

Once wires are set up appropriately where they'll be going you can start connecting things.

There is a male 3 prong connector from the kit that will need to be plugged into the main oem 3 prong headlight female connector on the car on the drivers side.

Connect the ground (one for each side/headlight) to the 10mm bolt that is sitting on the metal rail just above the headlight housing. It's the perfect distance to where you need it.

Connect the appropriate wires from the controller/relay to the ballasts. Then connect the wire connectors from the controller/relay to the connectors on the projector (if you purchase hi/low projectors).

Place headlight close to their normal location and plug in HID bulbs.

You should only have one connector on each projectors that is not connected, this is for the halos which we'll do later.

connect negative terminal wire and turn on the lights. They should work if everything is wired properly. I had a bad/faulty ballast from the factory that fried my controller by allowing too much current through, so my lights wouldn't work. Barber was great and warrantied them and had some extra's so I picked up a new ballast and a new controller and everything lit up.

If everything works move on to wiring the halos. If the lights aren't going on, check your left (driver side) headlight fuse and check that your power, grounds, 3 prong headlight connector, ballasts and bulbs are all plugged in.

Now, the HID's are currently wired to go on as your DRL's, meaning they are essentially always on (as long as your handbreak is down). I only wanted my halos on as DRL's so I disabled my DRL's (well Barber did but he showed me how).

Move your driver seat all the way back to give yourself space. Equipped with a headlamp or flashlight lie on your back and look up under the steering wheel. Stop and think how funny you look. Looking up, with your feet facing the back of the car on your left side (side closest to the radio) you will see a white rectangle connector with around 10 or so various colored wired coming from it. Once of those wires would be orange. Disconnect the white connector. If you now go to start the car and release your e-brake you should have no lights on.

Now disconnect the negative battery terminal. Plug the black boxes into the Halo connector from the projectors (headlights are still not installed just sitting where the normally go.

From the black box you will have a regular black and red wire with no connectors on them. These are the ground and power respectively. To light these up as DRL's you nee to find a 12V ignition source (meaning it's powered all the time the ignition is on). The easiest most straight forward 12 V ignition source in the engine bay without having to go through the firewall is the windshield washer motor blue wire (green is ground)

With the bumper completely removed look on the bottom of the washer fluid reservoir. You will see two connectors going into black things on the reservoir. The top one is the fluid level sensor, the white wire gives you 9v. Do not tap into this one*** I did and I wasted too much time as it drops down to 1v once tapped into and will not power your halos and will trigger your windshield fluid warning light.

Instead, look on the lower connector, you will so a green and blue wire. remove the plug and using a multimeter test the blue wire by sticking your red prong into the connector where the blue wire goes and the black prong onto the engine block (not painted not rusted part). You should read around 12v, make sure your negative battery terminal is connected for this and key is turned to ignition. You should read 0v with ignition in the off position.

I used the following to tap into the wires:
T-taps, red and black 18g wire, butt connectors, heat shrink tubing, loop electrical wire ends (to secure to ground), crimper (came w/ my multimeter set), plastic 1/4" plastic protective tubing, zip ties, dielectric grease.

You want to check each wire you tap with your voltmeter and ignition on to make sure the wire is properly tapped and reading 12v.

Fill your t-tap holes with dielectric grease (weather proofs it) place T tap over blue windshield washer motor wire (unplug battery just in case) then cut a span of red wire that will be long enough to fit across your engine bay.

put the end of that newly cut red wire (doesn't need to be stripped) into the other hole in the T tap that does not go all of the way through the tap. Push the wire in as far as it goes. Take pliers and squeeze the metal "tap" all the way down onto the wires. Cover metal tap with the attached plastic clip and click it in place. Now use your multimeter and test the end of the newly connected red wire.

With the ignition on it should read ~12v. If it reads 0 then you need to check your t-tap, you may not have pushed down hard enough. If it read 12v then move on to tapping more wires.

Cut a short 6" piece of red wire. Use a new T-tap and tap into the long red wire you just connected. You should tap into the wire so that the 6" red wire is very close to behind your passenger headlight.

Slide heatshrink tube over the newly connected 6" red wire. Then splice about 1cm of the end of the 6" red wire. Put a butt connector over it. Then take the red wire from the halo box that is connected to the projector and stick that also into the butt connector. Use your crimps and press down to crimp it. I crimped the butt connector in 3 places. Lightly tug the 2 wires and make sure they are snug in the connector. Slide your heatshrink tube over the connector (do not heat yet, wait until wiring is good)

Now go to your driver side. The end of the long red wire you first connected need to be connected to the red wire coming from the halo box on your passenger light. Use a butt connector to do this and follow the same procedures as above. You're close to being done.

Now wire your grounds:

Use a butt connector and connect the black wire from the halo box to a 8" piece of 18g black wire you will have to cut.

Install a loop wire end to the end of the 8" black wire by crimping it in 2 places. You will have to strip the end of the wire for this. To make the crimp more secure I stripped a longer 2cm part of the wire end and doubled it back on itself. I then put it in the connector and crimped it. Test it to make sure it snug. I cut heat shrink tube in half and slid each small piece on the wire before I crimped it. This allowed me to heat shrink the crimped part of the wire which keep it looking clean.

Connect the grounds you just made to the same ground used by the HID grounds.

Connected the battery and put the key in the ignition. The halos should turn on. I used a 9v battery and tested the halos before I did the wiring. I just connected the black and red wire from the halo box to the 9x batter while it was connected to the halo connector.

To better improve the weather proofing I am going to use liquid electrical tape and over the ends of the heatshrink on the butt connectors as my heatshrink was a little big and didn't fully seal the ends. I am also going to use rescue tape and completely seal the t-taps.

This probably isn't necessary but I want everything to look clean and have no risk of getting wet.

If everything works properly then go ahead and use a heat gun or hot blow dryer to heat the heatshrink tubing. Then use zip ties to secure to ballasts the best you can. You can also secure the controller/relay. I'll take pics of what screw I used to secure mine. Make sure the controller is facing down so that water doesn't run into it from the bottom and short it all out. I'm going to use rescue tape and seal the bottom better as the rubber boot it came with isn't very tight.

You could drill into the frame to secure everything. I avoided that due to me driving in the salt belt, I'd rather used plastic zip ties which only need to e periodically checked, then risk rust damaging the frame. If you do drill into the frame and use self taping screws make sure you use rust converter and/or primer and let it dry well before you screw down anything.

I'll also be polishing my headlights as they're all scratched up. I'm using this method as it is a great way to keep them looking clear https://youtu.be/UEJbKLZ7RmM

Like I said, I'll upload pics after this weekend when I take them all, but for now this write up will have to do.

Don't let electrical work scare you, just learn as much as you can before hand, have a multimeter and take your time. When in doubt keep the battery disconnected.

EDIT* If you don't have a spare set of headlight housings then I'd recommend you wire up everything temporarily (not the halos) and test plug the HID bulbs into the connectors and see if they turn on. This way you don't go through it all like I did and then have an issue from the factory and now you have no headlights
Do the original turn signal bulbs still fit into their housing after its carved up to make room for the projectors? I only got as far as the carving before retiring the project indefinitely.
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Old 10-28-2015, 02:15 PM   #6
tmontague
 
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Yes, the bulbs still fit, I replaced the outer ones with some extra LED ones I had lying around but the regular bulbs will still fit.

The only down side to this is that because the housing is cut away the signal is not as bright as originally because some of the light is lost going up into the main housing. However this is not a big deal as it is still more than bright enough to notify other drivers.

I'd highly recommend following through with the kit, it is well worth your time. The light output blows me away every time I turn on my lights, paired up with how sharp the halos look and the black housing looks much better than oem.

There is actually less glare into oncoming drivers eyes if the lights are properly cut off. I have stood at a distance from my car and unless I duck right down I can stare right at them with no issue. However when you duck down it is excruciatingly bright.

The only issue is that if you do not have a spare set of headlights you have to commit to this install all of the way. Once the paint is on oem bulbs become virtually useless.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:37 PM   #7
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Post edited with pictures of the install. If anything isn't clear just post here for more info.

enjoy
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Old 11-02-2015, 07:37 PM   #8
invader166
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Great write up tmontague!

I also did an HID and LED strip+halo wiring for a buddy of mine a while back. The headlight wiring I did the same, but for the halo's, I ended up soldering them together with the LED strip my buddy installed in the housing. I then soldered in some extra wire, along with a T10 adaptor/connector to plug into the DRL lightbulb socket.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/4-x-T10-W5W-19...943?nav=SEARCH

Makes for easy connection/disconnection and a slightly cleaner install.
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Old 11-02-2015, 10:22 PM   #9
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That's not a bad idea either. Although all my taps and connectors are now wrapped in silicone tape which makes it look super clean and will keep everything dry. I love the silicone tape, it's a necessity to keep any aftermarket wiring waterproof.
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Old 11-03-2015, 11:33 PM   #10
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hi, i'm "that guy!" I'm running OEM HIDs and haven't blinded anyone lol.


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Old 01-26-2016, 02:38 PM   #11
spammenot66
 
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can you provide a link or more detail on your hid kit? I'm looking to do the same for mine.
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Old 01-26-2016, 04:38 PM   #12
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contact thebarber through this forum or on face book under "Kitchen HID" he's hte one who got me my kit, I don't know what model it was
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Old 01-26-2016, 06:19 PM   #13
IllusionX
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Kitchener...

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
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Old 01-26-2016, 06:38 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
contact thebarber through this forum or on face book under "Kitchen HID" he's hte one who got me my kit, I don't know what model it was
Not sure on what his cross-boarder position is, and yeah 'Kitchener HID'.
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:58 PM   #15
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Ugh, ya that's what happens when I post from my cell.

I'm pretty sure he'll ship to the US no problem.
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Old 02-04-2016, 12:50 AM   #16
clarenceie
 
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How did you go about the projectors hitting the top of the turn signal (hump)? I've tried to black out mine but it seems it still allows light to be bounced off. If you have a cut off and what paint you used, that'll be great. Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:27 AM   #17
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I used a dremel and cut away the plastic a bit at a time. It's not the cleanest job job I was in a rush but it works well and you can't tell as it's all blacked out.

I can't remember the specific brand of paint I used. It was a black satin finish not a gloss. It's not matte but it does reflect as much lights.

With the projectors installed you shouldn't have an issue with reflection as the light it not pointing back on the reflector.

I ended up cutting quite a bit of the hump away, more than I thought.
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Old 02-04-2016, 12:34 PM   #18
thebarber
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can you provide a link or more detail on your hid kit? I'm looking to do the same for mine.
$120USD to your door for a kit...

www.facebook.com/kitchenerhid

nice write-up
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