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11-27-2017, 07:46 PM | #19 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: NY
Posts: 29
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Flange repair was too small, if anyone else decides to go this route, I recommend getting a slightly bigger size
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11-28-2017, 12:27 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: NY
Posts: 29
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Walker 31871
or any other flange repair kit that is about 2 1/4 inch They run about 15 bucks for two from rockauto Good luck to anyone who needs to do this, hopefully this helps at all |
03-25-2018, 10:29 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2007 3 door 5MT Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: snowbirding in Tucson
Posts: 25
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Just replaced the original gasket on my 2007 hatchback with 120k miles and 10 salty upstate NY winters. :D
Photos Before trying to loosen the flange bolts, I used a MAP-Pro torch ($50 at the Homeless Despot) to get the nuts red-hot. You can hit the nuts with a torch from the engine bay -- I unclipped a wiring harness to make more room to work. Watch your aim -- there are O2 sensor wires just above the flange on the driver's side. After heating each nut, I crawled underneath, hammered a socket with long extension onto the rusty bolt head, and carefully(!) applied torque. Got them both loose with no fuss, and the rest of the job was easy. I used new bolts but kept the original captive nuts. The replacement gasket I used was a Walker 31619. May be a little different than OEM gasket size (definitely different material), but it seems to make a good seal. Car sounds much quieter now and less rough when accelerating. I'm probably breathing cleaner cabin air too. |
03-26-2018, 12:57 AM | #22 |
Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,462
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Time to do mine as well. I can taste the fumes with the hood open.. and a shot of SeaFoam shows it's leaking there, also be a good idea to take the header off and check that as well. Good info on the or replacements.
__________________
Check out my Build thread: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52274 |
03-26-2018, 09:24 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: NY
Posts: 29
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Yes, I would definitely monitor this in the future and for anyone else who owns this vehicle.
My spring bolts were just corroded to pieces which is why they snapped so quickly. But yes, Definitely torch/Heat before torquing anything exhaust in the future! |
12-04-2018, 08:10 PM | #24 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 2DR Hatch Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Brantford, Ontario
Posts: 40
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I've got to do this soon. Winter is here and heating the car with re-circulation on just fogs the windows bad. Driving with it off the car just fills up with fumes.
Good to know its likely just the gasket. I haven't investigated yet though. |
12-07-2018, 12:10 PM | #25 |
Drives: '10 Hatchback Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Ontario
Posts: 11
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Same thing happened to me. I was able to helicoil it by using an adapter to hold the bit/tap/helicoil tool to a 12" extension bar.
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12-07-2018, 02:37 PM | #26 | |
3 Yaris and counting..
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
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Quote:
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12-07-2018, 05:57 PM | #27 |
Drives: 2007 2-door hatchback Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: USAnotCA
Posts: 750
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This spring-bolt joint is special. Circa 1990 Corolla and Tercel used a down pipe w/ a flex section, so all stock exhaust connections were flanged. On all of these I used 3/8 stainless nuts and bolts from the hardware store...no more rusty stuck fasteners next time a pipe or muffler was replaced.
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12-07-2018, 06:47 PM | #28 |
Banned
Drives: 2015 Yaris LE 3door 1F7 Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 963
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flex seal
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12-08-2018, 09:20 AM | #29 |
Drives: 2007 2-door hatchback Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: USAnotCA
Posts: 750
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Isn't "flex seal" polyurethane glue and caulk sold on TV? (Guy cuts a boat in half, glues it together and zooms across the lake.)
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