AEM FIC fight for turbo!!!

[CTScott]

Try clearing your 02 map.

[yariSB86]

Hey Scott, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately clearing out my O2 map failed horribly. Immediately threw p0102, MAF sensor bad. Clearing the code causes the car to shut off.

I am fairly certain none of my sensors are bad because with the FIC bypassed the car runs fine.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yariSB86

Hey Scott, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately clearing out my O2 map failed horribly. Immediately threw p0102, MAF sensor bad. Clearing the code causes the car to shut off.

I am fairly certain none of my sensors are bad because with the FIC bypassed the car runs fine.

I meant to also say - change it from voltage to percent. Making it all zeros as voltage wouldn't work.

[yariSB86]

What I did was change the maf map load input to tps voltage. Increased the amount slightly. Only near the area where the car idles. Left everything else zeros. As of a little driving yesterday I couldn't get the car to stall. Ill post a pic of the map and settings later today. My 08 ECU arrives today also. If I have time ill install it and see howl the car runs.

[thatbryanguy]

That's good news to hear. Let us know what you get from more driving

[yariSB86]

Car still stalls...I have the 08 ECU but won't be able to install it until Tuesday. Car runs slightly lean with the adjustments to the maf map. Won't be a problem to richen it back out.
That's where I stand right now...

[thatbryanguy]

Dang...I'm visiting my mom and haven't had any time to keep testing stuff right now. Has anyone sent their '07 ECU to get reflagged by Scott and tried it yet? As soon as I get a chance to ship it out ill do it but if anyone else has tried it yet itd be great to hear about it.

[fnkngrv]

I still haven't been able to actually test my flashed ECU with the FIC yet. I just got back from Fairbanks, Alaska and leave in another day for another week, this time to Ogden, Utah. Sorry! I have so much to get done in the next two days it is silly, but I will try to see about installing my FIC again. Since the ECU swap however it seems to me like the car does run smoother, but that could be a placebo effect as well.

[DKN-YARIS]

Ok boys and girls. I have spent the last week and a bit pulling my hair to try and figure out this stalling issue that some of us are having with the AEM FIC (zage turbo kit install or not) and using 1zz injectors.

After countless reading of threads and trying to conclude what everyone's settings are i finally figured out the problem for my car which i hope will do the same for some of those having the same stalling.

Over the weekend I put the car back on the dyno to try and simulate the same stalling under deceleration with no load. With that being said this ONLY happens when the AEM FI/C unit is plugged in, with the bypass harness installed, no problems no CELs.

After some thought and looking at my fuel map it finally hit me to do a straight comparison of the following:

AEM FI/C by passed, we monitored the following at IDLE:
IAT: 35 degress cel.
Short & Long term fuel trim: Averaging about -20-22%
APR: 14.9-15.3

With AEM FI/C plugged in, with my map i would see a HUGE difference in numbers pushing short and long fuel trim to over -30% causing it to stall out.

After looking, we decided to 0 out the fuel map from 3-21PSIA letting the stock ECM completely control deceleration AFR as I believe once you have settings inputted the stock ECM is not able to keep up trying to balance the AFR for proper idle set by stock parameters. I do believe very minor adjustments can be made but i figure the stock idles just fine i would just match those settings.

We attempted to make changes to the Injector response time but did not give any real results as increasing the number was giving worse results from what i was trying to match. the final number we came to was "688.5", 810us was throwing the system off a bit more than what i would like from stock. Do keep in mind this number may change for everyone depending on their setup, motor/injector condition.

We continued to keep an eye on the fuel trim but noticing a slightly higher combined avg than stock. we proceeded to making very minor changes to the MAF as the Zage kit does use a cone filter and the pipping size is a tad larger then stock. After making the adjustment, the idling readings matched stock fuel trim readings.

The one thing i did also try was all 3 firmware versions to see if any of them would produce any worse/better results as follows:

z104: cranking is best with 1 or 2 max tries and fires up but still stalls (30 mins of dyno)
z107: cranking is OK, 2-3 max tires and fires up but still stalls (30 mins of dyno)
z110: cranking is worst, usual 3 times max and fires up with NO STALLING. (1.5 hrs of dyno)

*Everytime i changed and tried new firmware, we did a calibration within the AEM FIC for the RPMS and TPS (just incase)

As results will vary from car to car, i do believe it would be best for those using the AEM FI/C to let the stock computer do what its supposed to do when it comes to the idle. (keep in mind this is probably why the car won't stall when you have the bypass harness plugged in) its too sensitive when the trying to balance out the system manually and the computer is not able to compensate for the difference quickly enough causing the idle. I think you can maybe go outside of stock range no more than 5-10% before it might start acting up.

Over the course of the time trying to find a possible solution and comparing the different setups here is what i currently have for those still trying to figure it out:

08 Yaris LB
-08 ECM
-Zage turbo kit
-1zz injectors
-stock TB (I replaced mine as i had previously adjusted the screw and wasn't sure if i had it back to the stock position so i picked up another one and clean it out completely and did not bother to touch the scew on the new TB.)
-Clean PCV
-Clean MAF
-HKS SSQV BOV which recirculates back into the Intake (I will disconnect the hose and see if any changes over the course of a week)

CELS SEEN after my install and gone after tweaking the FI/C:

Camshaft position sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Idle control
Random Misfire + Cylinder Misfire

i've attached photos of my maps from my FI/C for reference. I hope this helps you guys out as it should be easy enough to do just driving around when you have your maps changed and should notice a difference. the biggest changelle was finding which firmware works best for YOUR setup. I have found that most use z107 vs. where i HAVE to use z110. Finding that perfect match between firmware should be done AFTER you have made changes to your maps to match what YOUR stock ECM fuel trim readings are and from there once you find the firmware that doesn't stall, that's your lucky number.

*Please ignore in my setup screen shot where i have the O2 start delay set a 3secs as i was trying to see if that would make any changes to my cranking issue :D Also, i did not change any values in my O2 Map as well.

As for the cranking issue i have found with the z110 firmware, i will try and shield some of the lines to see if cancelling out some of the noise in the lines will help the crank signal. its a difference problem now and AEM won't address it lol.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30848488@N03/9068848391
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30848488@N03/9068843827
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30848488@N03/9068837109
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30848488@N03/9068830089

[thatbryanguy]

Awesome job, thank you for all the info! I'll jump on this within the week here hopefully and share my own results

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Very good information. Glad to see things are finally going well. Has the crank code came back yet on z110?

[DKN-YARIS]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Very good information. Glad to see things are finally going well. Has the crank code came back yet on z110?

I only got the crank sensor code twice, both times was BEFORE i made any changes to FIC and only flashed it with z110 and it comes on after several long cranks as the ECM getting confused and throws the code.

*Correction, got CEL P0335 light on, camshaft position sensor, its always this CEL that gets triggered, I believe the signal line going to the AEM unit is noise causing the ECM to throw the code. I already replaced my sensor with a new one lol.

The only odd issue i'm seeing now is that when i start the vehicle (whether its 1 or up to 3 crank tries)

**Car now starts with just one crank like stock for the past 2 days....very odd.

I see get quite a bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust. from my AFR its at 15.2 on idle so its not running super rich i suspect it could be my oil feed causing the white smoke as it goes away after a bit of driving and when the motor/cat warms up...not sure if anyone has this issue with a zage kit and 1zz injectors?

[thatbryanguy]

Update!

So I got my 07 ECU back reflashed from CTScott, installed it back into my Yaris this morning and went for a drive. Brought my Hex wrench with me and had to adjust the idle a few times but then I hit the sweet spot and NO MORE STALLING at every red light or stop sign! I only went for a quick drive about 10-15 mins but so far so good! Seems the reflash did the trick to make the older Yaris ECU compatible with the AEM FIC.

This now finally means I will be hoping out of this thread (and hopefully never have to return again) and jumping into a Zage turbo kit thread! Oh how I've stared at that box with my turbo just waiting for so long...

:D

[Shinare]

Congratz! Can't wait to see your turbo project thread. :)

[thatbryanguy]

Can anyone email me a decent base map to start with on 7psi? Just one where I can drive a little and not run lean the whole time. My email is thatbryanguy101@gmail.com

[cali yaris]

emailed you two maps.

[thatbryanguy]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

emailed you two maps.

Always lookin out :) you're awesome

[thatbryanguy]

Back again! Not sure now if its the FIC's fault this time though. So anyway...after driving around for a month with the turbo in and the FIC working well, AFRs are good and hitting just about 6psi, my car has decided in cant idle anymore again. It has also started spitting out whitish grey ( not positive on color) plumes of smoke after hitting boost then coming to a stop at a light or something of the sort. Changed my spark plugs for a step colder, NGK 7s, put some seafoam in the tank and it was decent for a day now it dies every stop or every time i go into nuetral really, unless as soon as I shift into neutral I let go of the brake and tap the gas. I have to keep tapping the gas so the rpm doesn't drop below 700. As soon as it hits 700 it stalls. The car has stalled a few times shifting out of gear into neutral for 2 secs going 30-40mph and I restarted the car by just putting it in 2nd and letting go of the clutch. Focusing on the rpms so much has taken a lot of my attention off the road and I've had a few close encounter with other cars because of it so I reaaally need to get this straightened out ASAP. Any ideas or help on the stalling?

Oh by the way, I changed the plugs because I started getting CELs saying cylinder misfires and idle control system malfunction. Haven't had those come back up since I changed the plugs. I've spent a lot of time adjusting the idle on the 1zz TB but somehow I think this is related to something else.