Fuel pump, sender, seal, wiring, and cluster

[mavrick]

I have a 2008 yaris hatch and posting all the way from South Africa.

Initially my yaris did not want to start one day. It just kept swinging and swinging on the starter but didn't didn't fire and idle.

Mechanic poured fuel directly into the intake and it fired and ran. Immediately we knew it was a fuel pump issue.

Took the back seats out. And removed the seal with a hammer and screw driver. Took the pump entire housing out. And replaced it with a complete new unit. Filter pump and level sender.

New pump in and seal tightened. Started the vehicle and it runs. Vehicle electronic cluster shows 1 bar from full yet the tank is almost empty.

Took the car to the garage. Filled up a full tank and car took about 43 litres of fuel before I realized something was wrong. Lift the rear seat and the fuel was leaking out the top of the seal. Ordered a new seal from Toyota. It came as the plastic ring and the o ring. Ordered a tool to tighten the plastic ring as well. Problem is that what torque do I tighten the ring to ensure it does not leak and does not damage the o ring?

So I thought the level sender was stuck and by filling a full tank it would dislodge a 'stuck' sender. After driving about for a while with terrible fuel fumes I the car I realized the range meter was actually accurate but the levels on the cluster were still not accurate. It fluctuated between full and 1 block from full.

This completely messed with my brains. So I took a tester.

Ignition off. And I pulled the plug on the pump. Battery voltage was a steady 12v. The voltage at the connector was around 10v or 11v. I will confirm after measuring again. I am worried

The resistance also fluctuated accordingly when the fuel was at different levels. I will also confirm the ohms.

So I went to the scrap yard and got a scrap level sender to test. I compared my original sender that came from the factory to the scrap yard sensor and they both were the same. I then attached the original sensor to the connector and checked the fuel level. It still showed the same problem on the fuel level blocks. 1 block below empty.

I have a Bluetooth obd reader with the torque pro lite app for checking the ecu but I can't find any place where it gives me the ohms that the ecu senses. Is there any other way I can finds this out?

What can I do to get the cluster to reset and calibrate the fuel level? The range meter works perfectly though.

Thanks in advance for the help


Sent from my POT-LX1AF using Tapatalk