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05-07-2018, 06:44 AM | #1 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Need help fixing this problem (shocks)
Hi all, I'm needing some help on my 2009 Yaris Sedan. Try as I might I can't seem to get rid of this problem. The other cars that I have seen, do not have this issue. I recently put new KYB shocks on the front of the car, because it has 200k miles on it, and that seemed like a good excuse to go ahead and try to solve this issue.
I was hoping that with the new set of shocks, maybe I could somehow get to the bottom of what is causing this big gap between the top of the shock and the shock tower. I am inclined to say that it is not an issue of tightening the nut. Maybe it is, but if so, that nut needs to be so tight that to go any further, will surely break my allen wrench (aka hex wrench?) I can barely keep tightening with the regular wrench. But with the force of holding onto the allen wrench while tightening, there isn't much more the allen wrench is going to take before it breaks. It seems right at the limit. So that is what leads me to believe that the nuts on top are about as tight as they can go. Because that would seem like the logical way to fix it, right? Just tighten the nut more and it will cinch down. But they don't seem to want to go any tighter. So I'm kind of at a loss here. The new shocks came with everything. Everything that came off of the car during the repair, had a replacement in the box with the new shocks. Including those bushings that go at the top. Nothing appears to be missing. The only thing I can think of to do, is to maybe get some kind of spacer to put in there. But I'd really rather find out what the real problem is and fix that. What do you think it could be? |
05-07-2018, 06:48 AM | #2 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Sorry about the picture size. I tried to go back and resize them, but it looks like you can't edit images that you already posted.
But I wanted to add that if you jack up the car, those things go flush like they're supposed to be. And I think they are responsible for a clunking noise that I hear when going over bumps. |
05-07-2018, 07:36 AM | #3 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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That is completely normal when the car is on its wheels and goes away when lifted. There have been a few threads in the past of people being concerned about this.
The clunck you are experiencing is something else, check sway bar end links and make sure there is no play in your wheels when off the ground
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05-07-2018, 10:02 AM | #4 |
Drives: 06 Polar White 5dr, 13 Soul 4u Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,740
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http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ut+gap+top+hat
Check the posts in the last half of thread that discuss Control Arm bolt.
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05-07-2018, 02:23 PM | #5 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Wow that is good to know. Thanks!
But I screwed up when I made that post. I don't know why I typed "clunking" but I guess my brain wasn't working right. What I should have typed, and what I meant to type, was something more along the lines of "popping and creaking". There is a popping and creaking noise when you get on the brakes, or sometimes when you accelerate. Its also there often times when you turn. At 200k miles, I figured there was no harm in replacing the shocks. Car does ride better now for sure. But as I mentioned in a different thread, I recently had to replace the passenger side control arm because my wife ran over a median and killed the ball joint. Got the control arm off, and sure enough that ball joint was quite dead. Do yall think that perhaps this popping and creaking metal noise, could somehow be related to the new control arm? From those threads, it sounds if a control arm bolt was loose, its more of a clunking sound. |
05-07-2018, 02:43 PM | #6 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Check your brakes, if they are seized at the sliders they will bind to the rotor causing a noise at accel and decel
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
05-07-2018, 03:51 PM | #7 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Popping and clicking could be your cv axle(s) and would happen under all of the conditions you describe, especially when turning.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
05-09-2018, 06:59 PM | #8 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Well I looked for it myself, and couldn't determine anything. Then I took it to the alignment/suspension shop, and they couldn't determine anything with a quick look either. They reported that the tie rods, ball joints, sway bar links, all seems fine. They said I'd need to drop it off when I could leave it for several hours and let them look it over closelier.
But they put on a new set of Michelins. And oh, buddy... |
05-09-2018, 09:26 PM | #9 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Defenders?
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
05-10-2018, 09:52 AM | #10 |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Yes sir. Didn't really need the ice ones in TX
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05-13-2018, 08:07 AM | #11 |
Have you checked the lower control arm bolts? Sounds like one may have snapped
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If you want to enjoy your car, stay off of the internet. |
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05-23-2018, 01:40 AM | #12 | |
Drives: 1987 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 314
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Quote:
I impacted them on there. Then later when the problem came back I checked with a ratchet and I didn't want to risk trying to get them any tighter. There is some kind of poor design or something, going on with these cars, when it comes to the control arm bolts. I guess next time I have to work on the control arms on one of these cars, I'll get a torque wrench and some ARP bolt grease. |
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