How Long Should an Original Battery Last? - Page 6 - Toyota Yaris Forums

alanwagen · 11-22-2013, 11:59 AM

It seems like the Toyota battery is a very good battery. They are not anymore expensive and usually less than the aftermarket batteries. When the time comes, it will be OEM for us at least on this situation.

jess · 12-03-2013, 01:34 AM

'09 yaris. 155k when it sputtered and died. Used headlighta whenever I drove.

harda toenail · 12-03-2013, 08:32 PM

08 yaris with 96k miles. Stock battery cranks the starter slower this winter than last winter. Hope it gets me though and I'll replace it next fall. If not, I can't complain about it.

nookandcrannycar · 12-03-2013, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jess

'09 yaris. 155k when it sputtered and died. Used headlighta whenever I drove.

17k beyond the point my OEM died.

thetut · 12-04-2013, 09:59 AM

Mine lasted 7 years at 66,000Kms. Just had it changed yesterday.

Funny thing. I called the dealer parts department about a replacement and was told the price was $142 plus tax. He then told me that if I had it replaced there it would be $107 plus $18 labour plus tax.

Guess who did the replacement.

IllusionX · 12-04-2013, 11:25 AM

Toyota dealers in Quebec does not offer the Panasonic battery. It's a battery made in Canada if i remember.

Either.. my oct-06 Yaris is still on original battery at 136000km.

flukeboy · 12-07-2013, 06:36 AM

I have a 2010 3 door HB and mine only lasted until this year. It died after a temperature drop at night. So lasted 3 years. i bought an Optima yellow tp

nookandcrannycar · 12-12-2013, 11:20 PM

Just thought I would pass along this tidbit of information....might be helpful for people (not me

) who make Costco part of their lives. This comes from the Phoenix, Arizona forum (not the Automotive forum) at city-data.com. Rather than testing a battery under warranty to see if your claim/issue has merit, apparently Costco takes your word for it and issues a refund. I imagine nearly all customers then apply the refund toward a new battery. I don't like Costco, but I have to admit this is a good policy.

yaris0985 · 12-17-2013, 02:08 PM

Oem battery for now with 166k km ( 101 000miles)
Yaris 08
Temperature is -29c or -21f

jambo101 · 12-17-2013, 03:42 PM

Just replaced the original battery on my 05 Echo, it still had enough power to barely start the car, thought i'd change it now while i can still drive to the battery store.

honestabe · 12-20-2013, 02:21 AM

Hey all, I sell batteries for a living so I should chime in to provide some propper battery facts. First, batteries need to be maintained. This means that you need to check and keep your fluid levels topped up (if you have a maintenance battery) to the propper level. the plates inside the battery should never be exposed to air. Exposing the plates to air will increase the rate of sulfation in the battery, thereby breaking the battery down physically. The propper fill level is to the base of the cone when you remove the cap, this is usually about 3/4" down. Use only distilled water and use gloves to protect your skin (acid on the skin feels itchy and sticky, it's a slow breakdown since it's diluted sulfuric acid).

2nd, if you want to get the most life out of your battery you must use it and never let it drop below 12.2 volts. 12.6-12.8v is considered a full charge, while 12.2 is fully discharged. At 11.8v the battery is sulfating at an accellerated rate. If your battery is ever this low this means 1 of 4 things. 1; your alternator isn't working proppery. 2; You aren't driving far/fast enough the keep your battery fully charged. 3; Something is drawing power when the vehicle is off (typically a door left slightly open). 4; the battery is just plain worn out.

The average lifespan of a car battery when propperly used and maintained is 5-7 years. Some people see as much as 11 years (I have customers come in all the time with decade old batteries that are just now starting to get too weak). Defects do happen, but more times than not the battery just needs a good propper slow charge and a desulfation (some special automatic chargers have this option like the CTEK's and Genius's).

Good battery stores should have a load tester to tell you what the health of your battery is. At our stores we use 2 different testers. We have a portable tester we call the toaster, and we have a $1000 carbon pile load tester (more accurate results). The battery must be at atleast 12.6v in order to be tested. You can have a battery with 12.6v and have extremely low (less than 100 CCA's) Cold Cranking Amps.

Batteries are a chemical reaction that produce energy. As such you must remember a couple things. Letting a battery sit for extended periods of time (longer than 3 weeks) without being proppery charged (either through driving or through a propper charger at a slow rate of 2 amps or less) can kill a battery. To get they most life out of your battery you must use it. I tell all my customers that don't drive their vehicles much that they need to take their vehicle for a good drive of atleast 15 minutes at freeway speeds to recharge their battery (this is also good for the health of the motor). Batteries naturally lose voltage over time through the chemical reaction, which is why you need to keep it recharged.

For all you old timers who think you can just shock a battery with 100A for 10 minutes, good luck. Most likely you will cook your battery and possibly blow it up (seen it too many times). Over charging a battery is not only bad for your battery, it is dangerous. I have seen many customers come in with what's left of their battery in a 5-gallon bucket because they left it on a charger at 20+ amps for a few hours.

As a professional I may use high amperage to waken batteries or bring their voltage up enough for an automatic charger to take over, but I only do so for very short amounts of time and am monitoring the voltage of the battery very often.

Any other questions on batteries of any kind please feel free to ask. If ya'll want to know about the AGM batteries I can go into detail on those as well.

rtayyebi · 12-20-2013, 11:38 AM

Hello , I have recently bought a Yaris 2008, the day after I bought the car ,battery was dead ,It was a Panasonic original battery . It was lasted 5 years.

apriljoy · 12-23-2013, 05:03 PM

My 2007 Yaris Sedan (purchased June 2006, built in April 2006) just had the factory installed battery die this past weekend. Since the weather has been cold I've been remote starting it (after market) so I wouldn't know if it was struggling to start. I think 7.5 years was a good run.

I'm going to get the Napa Legend as recommended.

dj92 · 12-23-2013, 05:33 PM

My battery seems to be the original one and if that's true, it's 4 years old and has no problem with cranking at all.
I'm curious how the flow heater I'm going to integrate (controllable via PWM, theoretically up to 250A, but I don't want to blow the alternator fuse nor one of its rectifiers, so I'll run it at about 110A) will affect the remaining lifetime :D

CTScott · 12-23-2013, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dj92

My battery seems to be the original one and if that's true, it's 4 years old and has no problem with cranking at all.
I'm curious how the flow heater I'm going to integrate (controllable via PWM, theoretically up to 250A, but I don't want to blow the alternator fuse nor one of its rectifiers, so I'll run it at about 110A) will affect the remaining lifetime :D

The OEM PTC heater is only a 40 A heater. The OEM alternator is only rated at 70A, so you really don't want to exceed that or you will quickly drain the battery.

dj92 · 12-23-2013, 06:32 PM

I knew that

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

The OEM PTC heater is only a 40 A heater.

Well, mine is from a BMW e46 and heats the water.

In first tests, it got the water temperature up by 40K within about a minute

But

Quote:

The OEM alternator is only rated at 70A

Well, this is a bit less than what I expected.
Just for reference:
My Battery is a 60Ah one which is stated to be suitable for start/stop needs.

Since I use a µC (PIC32) which reads from the two CAN buses (yup, there are two on mine which has a separate alternator controller), my plan was to rise the heater power (via the PWM duty cycle) until the alternator load resp. its excitation duty cycle (ID 1c8, 4th byte, on the separate bus) exceeds a value I'll have to find out.
I'll add some other functions, too, but that would be way off topic here - PN me if you are curious, I won't keep the source code for me ;)

apriljoy · 12-24-2013, 11:15 PM

Oh it's not my battery like I thought. It's bad gas or condensation. My fiancé got it to start after dumping Iso Heet in it. I am still wanting to get a new battery. I would hate for it to just up and die.

JustPassinThru · 12-30-2013, 09:53 PM

The factory battery in my 2009 lasted the entire time I had it. No issues.

This in SPITE of how I accidentally knocked it dead; parking it for a month while I was traveling with another car. Interior light was on the whole time; the battery was completely dead. NO current - even the clock was dead.

Jump-started it; then left it run for ten hours, errands around town and idling in the driveway. But at the end of it, it was charged and held the charge - always started, even in zero-degree temperatures.

11-22-2013, 11:59 AM	#91
alanwagen Drives: 2015Yaris, Son's car, 10 Prius Join Date: May 2010 Location: Texas Posts: 181	OEM for me It seems like the Toyota battery is a very good battery. They are not anymore expensive and usually less than the aftermarket batteries. When the time comes, it will be OEM for us at least on this situation.

12-17-2013, 03:42 PM	#100
jambo101 Drives: yaris 08 sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Montreal Canada Posts: 1,286	Just replaced the original battery on my 05 Echo, it still had enough power to barely start the car, thought i'd change it now while i can still drive to the battery store. __________________ Have Yaris will travel..

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12-03-2013, 01:34 AM	#92
jess Drives: 09 hatchback Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: ca Posts: 24	'09 yaris. 155k when it sputtered and died. Used headlighta whenever I drove.

12-03-2013, 08:32 PM	#93
harda toenail Drives: Want a yaris Join Date: May 2012 Location: SE Missouri Posts: 132	08 yaris with 96k miles. Stock battery cranks the starter slower this winter than last winter. Hope it gets me though and I'll replace it next fall. If not, I can't complain about it.

12-04-2013, 09:59 AM	#95
thetut Drives: 2007 4dr sedan Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Montreal Posts: 94	Mine lasted 7 years at 66,000Kms. Just had it changed yesterday. Funny thing. I called the dealer parts department about a replacement and was told the price was $142 plus tax. He then told me that if I had it replaced there it would be $107 plus $18 labour plus tax. Guess who did the replacement.

12-04-2013, 11:25 AM	#96
IllusionX It's the illusion you see View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brossard, QC Posts: 3,888	Toyota dealers in Quebec does not offer the Panasonic battery. It's a battery made in Canada if i remember. Either.. my oct-06 Yaris is still on original battery at 136000km.

12-07-2013, 06:36 AM	#97
flukeboy Drives: 2010 3 dr hb Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: The Villages, Fl Posts: 3	I have a 2010 3 door HB and mine only lasted until this year. It died after a temperature drop at night. So lasted 3 years. i bought an Optima yellow tp

12-12-2013, 11:20 PM	#98
nookandcrannycar Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009 Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles Posts: 4,839	Just thought I would pass along this tidbit of information....might be helpful for people (not me ) who make Costco part of their lives. This comes from the Phoenix, Arizona forum (not the Automotive forum) at city-data.com. Rather than testing a battery under warranty to see if your claim/issue has merit, apparently Costco takes your word for it and issues a refund. I imagine nearly all customers then apply the refund toward a new battery. I don't like Costco, but I have to admit this is a good policy.

12-17-2013, 02:08 PM	#99
yaris0985 Drives: yaris sedan 09 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Quebec/Montreal Posts: 46	Oem battery for now with 166k km ( 101 000miles) Yaris 08 Temperature is -29c or -21f

12-20-2013, 02:21 AM	#101
honestabe The Battery Guru Drives: 08 2-door hatchback 5-speed Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Mt Vernon, WA Posts: 9	Hey all, I sell batteries for a living so I should chime in to provide some propper battery facts. First, batteries need to be maintained. This means that you need to check and keep your fluid levels topped up (if you have a maintenance battery) to the propper level. the plates inside the battery should never be exposed to air. Exposing the plates to air will increase the rate of sulfation in the battery, thereby breaking the battery down physically. The propper fill level is to the base of the cone when you remove the cap, this is usually about 3/4" down. Use only distilled water and use gloves to protect your skin (acid on the skin feels itchy and sticky, it's a slow breakdown since it's diluted sulfuric acid). 2nd, if you want to get the most life out of your battery you must use it and never let it drop below 12.2 volts. 12.6-12.8v is considered a full charge, while 12.2 is fully discharged. At 11.8v the battery is sulfating at an accellerated rate. If your battery is ever this low this means 1 of 4 things. 1; your alternator isn't working proppery. 2; You aren't driving far/fast enough the keep your battery fully charged. 3; Something is drawing power when the vehicle is off (typically a door left slightly open). 4; the battery is just plain worn out. The average lifespan of a car battery when propperly used and maintained is 5-7 years. Some people see as much as 11 years (I have customers come in all the time with decade old batteries that are just now starting to get too weak). Defects do happen, but more times than not the battery just needs a good propper slow charge and a desulfation (some special automatic chargers have this option like the CTEK's and Genius's). Good battery stores should have a load tester to tell you what the health of your battery is. At our stores we use 2 different testers. We have a portable tester we call the toaster, and we have a $1000 carbon pile load tester (more accurate results). The battery must be at atleast 12.6v in order to be tested. You can have a battery with 12.6v and have extremely low (less than 100 CCA's) Cold Cranking Amps. Batteries are a chemical reaction that produce energy. As such you must remember a couple things. Letting a battery sit for extended periods of time (longer than 3 weeks) without being proppery charged (either through driving or through a propper charger at a slow rate of 2 amps or less) can kill a battery. To get they most life out of your battery you must use it. I tell all my customers that don't drive their vehicles much that they need to take their vehicle for a good drive of atleast 15 minutes at freeway speeds to recharge their battery (this is also good for the health of the motor). Batteries naturally lose voltage over time through the chemical reaction, which is why you need to keep it recharged. For all you old timers who think you can just shock a battery with 100A for 10 minutes, good luck. Most likely you will cook your battery and possibly blow it up (seen it too many times). Over charging a battery is not only bad for your battery, it is dangerous. I have seen many customers come in with what's left of their battery in a 5-gallon bucket because they left it on a charger at 20+ amps for a few hours. As a professional I may use high amperage to waken batteries or bring their voltage up enough for an automatic charger to take over, but I only do so for very short amounts of time and am monitoring the voltage of the battery very often. Any other questions on batteries of any kind please feel free to ask. If ya'll want to know about the AGM batteries I can go into detail on those as well.

12-20-2013, 11:38 AM	#102
rtayyebi Drives: 2008,Sedan Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Toronto Posts: 2	Hello , I have recently bought a Yaris 2008, the day after I bought the car ,battery was dead ,It was a Panasonic original battery . It was lasted 5 years.

12-23-2013, 05:03 PM	#103
apriljoy meow Drives: Yaris Sedan, Black Sand Pearl Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 15	My 2007 Yaris Sedan (purchased June 2006, built in April 2006) just had the factory installed battery die this past weekend. Since the weather has been cold I've been remote starting it (after market) so I wouldn't know if it was struggling to start. I think 7.5 years was a good run. I'm going to get the Napa Legend as recommended.

12-23-2013, 05:33 PM	#104
dj92 Embracing Curves View User's Garage Drives: '14 Prius Executive Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: mid-western Germany Posts: 256	My battery seems to be the original one and if that's true, it's 4 years old and has no problem with cranking at all. I'm curious how the flow heater I'm going to integrate (controllable via PWM, theoretically up to 250A, but I don't want to blow the alternator fuse nor one of its rectifiers, so I'll run it at about 110A) will affect the remaining lifetime :D

12-24-2013, 11:15 PM	#107
apriljoy meow Drives: Yaris Sedan, Black Sand Pearl Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 15	Oh it's not my battery like I thought. It's bad gas or condensation. My fiancé got it to start after dumping Iso Heet in it. I am still wanting to get a new battery. I would hate for it to just up and die.

12-30-2013, 09:53 PM	#108
JustPassinThru Drives: No more Yaris Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Montana Posts: 180	The factory battery in my 2009 lasted the entire time I had it. No issues. This in SPITE of how I accidentally knocked it dead; parking it for a month while I was traveling with another car. Interior light was on the whole time; the battery was completely dead. NO current - even the clock was dead. Jump-started it; then left it run for ten hours, errands around town and idling in the driveway. But at the end of it, it was charged and held the charge - always started, even in zero-degree temperatures.