Car won't start - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Yaris Hilton · 01-17-2010, 07:51 PM

Those plugs don't look too bad to me. They look like conventional plugs (which generally need changing every 30K miles or so), not like the iridium plugs they come with now. (I think I said palladium before.)

Conor · 01-18-2010, 06:35 AM

Stupid question:

Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty, so if I am in front of the car I push on the torque wrench from the right hand side of the nut to unscrew it... correct?
The last mechanic was either ham fisted, or didn't bloody well change the oil in ages. I suspect the latter since the colour is very dark on the dip stick.

I think I'm going to have to start hammerring it, as I'm a bit worried about using my massive torque wrench. Like it's massive - I only use it as the rear wheel on my bikes take 65nm, but this yolk is good for 200nm. The minimum setting is 30nm, will that be OK to use?

Fazulka · 01-18-2010, 10:40 AM

You should use a breaker bar or a pipe over a socket wrench. Using a torque wrench to loosen a stuck bold could damage it (the wrench). The torque setting on the wrench is not what matters. The oil usually does look dark even after a few hundred miles. The last mechanic may have used an air powered tool to put the plug in (but they shouldn't have).

Yaris Hilton · 01-18-2010, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conor

Stupid question:

Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty, so if I am in front of the car I push on the torque wrench from the right hand side of the nut to unscrew it... correct?

The drain plug nut is on the underside of the car, pointing up. It's upside down. Looking at the nut, as if you were on your back under the car looking up at it, it tightens turning clockwise and loosens counterclockwise. If you're talking about pushing toward the right side of the nut facing it from the front of the car, you're talking about toward the left side of the car, and you're tightening it. Look at the nut and work out the clockwise/counterclockwise thing before you tear something up.

Conor · 01-24-2010, 06:03 PM

All done lads, was dead easy in the end. Now to source a good value OBD II.... local shop stocks them, but at €170 I think I'll pass.

If they worked on bikes too I'd buy one, but it turns out there is a different model for the bikes.

Conor · 01-30-2010, 10:55 AM

The wife left the lights on in the car while in work, so the battery was dead as a dodo.
After jump starting her, the engine management ligt went out -- so I guess you do need to issue a reset with an OBDII after fixing a problem.

I guess it must have been crying for a service eh?

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01-17-2010, 07:51 PM	#19
Yaris Hilton Half a Bubble Off Plumb Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA Posts: 1,593	Those plugs don't look too bad to me. They look like conventional plugs (which generally need changing every 30K miles or so), not like the iridium plugs they come with now. (I think I said palladium before.)

01-18-2010, 06:35 AM	#20
Conor Drives: yaris 1.0 petrol (Y2K model) Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Dublin, Ireland Posts: 18	Stupid question: Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty, so if I am in front of the car I push on the torque wrench from the right hand side of the nut to unscrew it... correct? The last mechanic was either ham fisted, or didn't bloody well change the oil in ages. I suspect the latter since the colour is very dark on the dip stick. I think I'm going to have to start hammerring it, as I'm a bit worried about using my massive torque wrench. Like it's massive - I only use it as the rear wheel on my bikes take 65nm, but this yolk is good for 200nm. The minimum setting is 30nm, will that be OK to use?

01-18-2010, 10:40 AM	#21
Fazulka Drives: 2007 Yaris 4dr Sedan Base Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Boston, MA Posts: 18	You should use a breaker bar or a pipe over a socket wrench. Using a torque wrench to loosen a stuck bold could damage it (the wrench). The torque setting on the wrench is not what matters. The oil usually does look dark even after a few hundred miles. The last mechanic may have used an air powered tool to put the plug in (but they shouldn't have).

01-24-2010, 06:03 PM	#23
Conor Drives: yaris 1.0 petrol (Y2K model) Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Dublin, Ireland Posts: 18	All done lads, was dead easy in the end. Now to source a good value OBD II.... local shop stocks them, but at €170 I think I'll pass. If they worked on bikes too I'd buy one, but it turns out there is a different model for the bikes.

01-30-2010, 10:55 AM	#24
Conor Drives: yaris 1.0 petrol (Y2K model) Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Dublin, Ireland Posts: 18	The wife left the lights on in the car while in work, so the battery was dead as a dodo. After jump starting her, the engine management ligt went out -- so I guess you do need to issue a reset with an OBDII after fixing a problem. I guess it must have been crying for a service eh?