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Old 10-09-2017, 07:20 PM   #55
06YarisRS
 
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I wish I'd seen this before I bought from Rock Auto. Since my exhaust guy deleted my resonator, I could have gotten this piece - including the resonator.

https://www.carid.com/2006-toyota-ya...-80703136.html
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:42 PM   #56
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Spoiler - Latest Project on '06

Finally got around to painting my spoiler. It is by no means a perfect job. I didn't fine sand it as much as I should have. It's got some fine sand marks and the clear coat needs to be sanded and polished.

Spoiler with adhesion promoter applied:


With tack coat:


With base coat:


Clear coat. Looks matte, but will be glossy after wet sanding and polishing:
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 04-17-2018 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:53 AM   #57
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That should make it look even better. You did a really good job with everything so far.
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:23 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash View Post
That should make it look even better. You did a really good job with everything so far.
Thanks, Whiplash! It's coming along. Can wait to widen the rear track with the Penguin spacers I just picked up. Then, from an exterior point of view, it should be done. Oh, well, once the front lip is installed and painted too!
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Old 04-18-2018, 04:19 PM   #59
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Pics never show the flaws, but that looks real good.
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Old 04-19-2018, 07:41 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Pics never show the flaws, but that looks real good.
Thanks. Well, it's going to get another sanding and repaint. I took it out into the sunlight and it looks ok, but I could also see a bit of light shining through. I have a pretty good basecoat though now. I'll post up pics of the finished product.

After that, it's the front lip. That, I'll install first and then paint it on the car. I doubt that this paint would handle any amount of flex.

The above said, if I'm not satisfied with the overall look of the car, I have another possible plan. There is a fellow locally with an autobody/collision shop. I am going to ask him to do an estimate on painting the back of the car. I've seen some of his blending work from all angles and the guy is a pro - virtually impossible to see his blending. The other option is a total repaint, except the door jambs, engine bay under hood, tailgate, inside of doors etc. I had spoken with him before and he quoted me around $350 - $400.00 to do the back end. If I repaired the tiny dings and sanded out the light scratches and he was willing to seal, base coat and clear for around $1K, I may do it. He is open to painting cars that other non-professionals have done minor body work on.
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:06 PM   #61
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When you polished out the headlights, what grit of sand paper did you use?

Also, is the the exact polish you buffed them with afterwards?

https://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:18 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennyLava View Post
When you polished out the headlights, what grit of sand paper did you use?

Also, is the the exact polish you buffed them with afterwards?

https://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html
If memory serves me correctly, I used 1500 followed by 2000 or 2500, wetsanding. That stage is important as the more time you put in here, the better the job, IMO. Keep sanding lightly until the yellow slurry turns to white slurry. Rinse well. I then used Meguiar's Ultimate Polish with my dual action polisher and cutting pad. After a good cleaning, rinse and microfiber towel drying, I applied a couple of coats of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze as in your link - about a day between applications. This is because to get the yellow out, you have to sand off the clearcoat that is on the headlight. That's what yellows. The klasse serves as a replacement for the uv blocker in the clearcoat to keep them from yellowing again. All of this is just my theory, but I have had good long-term success with this approach. We did a raft of cars in our school shop and our 'customers' were thrilled with the results.

Thinking about doing yours?

Klasse HGSG is the product I use exclusively for my car's paint. I have been using it for years and although I haven't tried many other sealants, it is amazingly durable/long-lasting and a few layers creates the most gloss candy-like and slick coating. And, to boot, a $30.00 jug (large jug) will last years! My cars get 4 - 5 coats a year and application is quick. If you want the best method, IMO, follow the link below. I do my headlights every time I do the paint too. I don't use Klasse All In One (AIO) as my paint is pretty clean usually anyway.

https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-...de-and-review/
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 04-19-2018 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:24 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Pics never show the flaws, but that looks real good.
This look better? I think the extra effort will be worth it. I resanded, repainted and re-cleared. Clearcoat is nice and thick, so should be easy to polish out the orange peel and achieve a high gloss.

Some day I'd like to invest in some actual automotive painting equipment and learn how to properly paint a car.





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Old 04-20-2018, 11:12 AM   #64
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For a DIY, I think it looks great.
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:20 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
For a DIY, I think it looks great.

Thanks man! I'll give it a week or so and then wet sand and polish. Should be very smooth with good reflectivity.
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:30 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
This look better?
I thought it looked good earlier. Any flaws then were really only visible to your eye. Camera doesn't pic them up. Just like taking a pic of my front bumper. Looks fantastic in pictures, naked eye sees something that looks to have seen the business end of a 12 gauge.


Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:25 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
I thought it looked good earlier. Any flaws then were really only visible to your eye. Camera doesn't pic them up. Just like taking a pic of my front bumper. Looks fantastic in pictures, naked eye sees something that looks to have seen the business end of a 12 gauge.


Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk
So true. Once on the car and out of the garage, I'm sure all the imperfections will jump out. My whole car is a "looks great from 10 - 20 feet away" vehicle. LOL.
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:19 PM   #68
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Spoiler Istalled...

Well, I got the job done. It took two attempts with the 3M tape. Got it on crooked the first time and it was a bear to remove. Second time was better. I was going to install just with the tape, but because I could not ascertain that the tape was in full contact with both the car and the spoiler, I decided to drill and use self-tapping screws as well. I then saturated the holes with thick rust proof compound.

I'm really on the fence about the look. It could go either way - the new spoiler or the stock stubby spoiler.





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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 04-23-2018 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:30 PM   #69
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That looks great!
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:50 PM   #70
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That looks great!
Thanks Cap'n! It looks pretty good from a few feet away. The spoiler was pretty rough and even though I sanded quite a bit, it's far from perfect.
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:10 AM   #71
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Looks good to me. Love those factory alloys, too. I think this car would level up 100 cool points if you installed some lowering springs. It would make a huge impact.
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Old 04-24-2018, 02:04 PM   #72
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Well, I dig it! Coincidently, do these spoilers do anything on our cars? Is there any downward force being exerted?
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