Synthetic VS. Regular oil reliability - Page 4 - Toyota Yaris Forums

b_hickman11 · 01-04-2010, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadMax

Fucking hell, put maple syrup in your engine if you want! It's your car, and you do what you think is best. If that is synth, then use it (I do). If you want to use regular dino oil, then do that. Change it at 3000, 5000, or 10000 mile intervals, or never! No one cares, 'cause if your Yaris seizes its engine than you will be the one that has to deal with it.

But can we please just quit having all these stupid oil debates?!?

I thought maple syrup and synthetic were the same thing....

Sidicas · 01-04-2010, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b_hickman11

I thought maple syrup and synthetic were the same thing....

There's an easy way to find out... Bottoms up!

SilverGlow · 01-04-2010, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by severous01

if oil is still clean, why change it. that means the filter is still filtering, the oil is not burnt, there are no deposits in it, and the oil is still lubricating. there is ABSOLUTELY NO REASON to change oil if it's still clean. i've even gone as far as a 5k check, replace filter, top off and be done with it. and that's what i'd suggest to anyone as a mechanic and having been a mechanic for years...that if it's still clean, let it get dirty. now, after your service interval you'll need to do your checks, and i'd suggest during gas or other fill-ups.

now, on another note. do whatever you want. i'm done on this note, there's more than enough info on the web if you're willing and capable of doing so...

You can always tell those that know nothing about motor oil. They often will use the color and clarity of the oil as an indictor of how dirty or how much usage is still there.

Color is very little to do with ascertaining if oil needs to be changed or not.

RUFFSTUFF · 01-04-2010, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

You can always tell those that know nothing about motor oil. They often will use the color and clarity of the oil as an indictor of how dirty or how much usage is still there.

Color is very little to do with ascertaining if oil needs to be changed or not.

True, but it doesn't hurt to say man my oil is black and let it keep draining to put in new oil. Maybe that's why there's an oil drain plug and not an oil throttle valve... Let it all out!

chai · 01-04-2010, 07:41 PM

I might be seeing -40C temperatures next month...

Sidicas · 01-04-2010, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

Color is very little to do with ascertaining if oil needs to be changed or not.

WHAT? You mean I don't have to change my Royal Purple every day??

N9QGS · 01-05-2010, 12:20 AM

I switched to Mobil1 synthetic at 36K, and I am 122K changing it every 5K and I have excellent oil analysis, I pay 22$ for 5 qts plus use toyota filter. I will change to conventional only if I seem to start loosing any oil, but so far its been a great car.

ddongbap · 01-05-2010, 02:41 AM

It never fails. Someone always has to bring up a debate about Syn and conventional oils. The outcome is the same. Internet heroes will debate.

BTW, to whoever said the comment about the oil color. Metal shards don't change the color of the oil, but it'll sure mess some stuff up.

TheSilkySmooth · 01-06-2010, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chai

I might be seeing -40C temperatures next month...

Well, dont put M1 0w-30 AFE in (im running it now) Its too thick for a FE oil - though its SUPPOSED to have good cold flow properties. I even had to take my high efficiency BOSH oil filter off due to loud valvatrain and other noised at a 15 degF cold start. I would opt for Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 or (0w20 if toyota approves) or a pan heater and a blosk heater - AND a heated garage

captainm27 · 01-06-2010, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

Well, dont put M1 0w-30 AFE in (im running it now) Its too thick for a FE oil - though its SUPPOSED to have good cold flow properties. I even had to take my high efficiency BOSH oil filter off due to loud valvatrain and other noised at a 15 degF cold start. I would opt for Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 or (0w20 if toyota approves) or a pan heater and a blosk heater - AND a heated garage

...and heated seats, heated mirrors, heated tires, heated steering wheel....

TheSilkySmooth · 01-06-2010, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

Color is very little to do with ascertaining if oil needs to be changed or not.

Agreed. Silver - did you ever contact Toyota Customer care and find out why they didnt put our engine on the 0w-20 approved list? I agree it doesnt ake sense. Ive been reading that the Toyota 0w-20 for the 2AZ is supposed to be very, very good - in fact state of the art. I dont know if I like moly in a oil or not - but this stuff has .1%

TheSilkySmooth · 01-06-2010, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUFFSTUFF

This is not that kind of forum... or is it? Must be the VIP section...

An instigator. If you want to debate about oil - I'm the guy. Logical arguments of course, and, only mild speculation and little data required to move forward!

TheSilkySmooth · 01-06-2010, 06:08 PM

I'll start. Just came from Lowe's. They stock Briggs and Stratton 5w-30 Full synthetic (32oz) oil with NO API or ILSAC rating. Should be highly additised to a fleet or HDEO level. They had it incorrectly low priced (i had a clerk verify) at 5.98USD a quart. Seems like this would be the nuts for a VTEC engine or a wailed-on Yaris for the winter. Proceed at your own risk. BTW, they also had MTD 5w-30 API SJ/CF HDEO snowking oil for 4.78 for 28oz. Tempting ....

ddongbap · 01-06-2010, 08:22 PM

Honda guys know better. They run conventional.

1stToyota · 01-07-2010, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

I'll start. Just came from Lowe's. They stock Briggs and Stratton 5w-30 Full synthetic (32oz) oil with NO API or ILSAC rating. Should be highly additised to a fleet or HDEO level. They had it incorrectly low priced (i had a clerk verify) at 5.98USD a quart. Seems like this would be the nuts for a VTEC engine or a wailed-on Yaris for the winter. Proceed at your own risk. BTW, they also had MTD 5w-30 API SJ/CF HDEO snowking oil for 4.78 for 28oz. Tempting ....

I use the stuff [B&S synthetic] in my John Deere but wouldn't advise using it in my car, in fear of what the long-term effects on the catalytic converter might be.

1stToyota · 01-07-2010, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

Well, dont put M1 0w-30 AFE in (im running it now) Its too thick for a FE oil - though its SUPPOSED to have good cold flow properties. I even had to take my high efficiency BOSH oil filter off due to loud valvatrain and other noised at a 15 degF cold start. I would opt for Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 or (0w20 if toyota approves) or a pan heater and a blosk heater - AND a heated garage

I'll probably do my OC today, using M1 0w-30 AFE...they're predicting near zero with -20 wind chills for the next few days, plus it's been nearly 5k miles since the last service. I'll do the UOA [Blackstone Labs] and have them to do the additive package test on the M1. After that I plan on switching back to my normal PP 5w-30, have Blackstone do the same testing and see which one offers the best protection and fuel economy. Hopefully there will be a clear winner.

devinlamothe · 01-07-2010, 02:03 PM

To be honest, I have NO idea if synthetic is better than conventional - however we do get quite insane temps here (re: -40c), so I figured I may as well use it. No idea either if it helps with cold weather starts, but from my own experience, I have never had my car NOT start in extreme temps.

b_hickman11 · 01-07-2010, 05:37 PM

Just got back from Wal-Mart and I just happen to walk down the oil dept. Most conventional oil bottles advertise a 150,000 mile warranty and some syn oil bottles advertise 300,000 mile warranty. I don't plan on putting more than 150,000 on either of my Yaris's, the average temp in the winter where I live is 48 degrees, and I don't drive my car like I'm racing it in the Daytona 500.....Therefore syn oil has no benefit over conventional oil for me. Thats probably why the shelves where full of syn and about 1/4-1/2 full of conventional.

ps....speaking of the mile warranties...I doubt the oil companies would actually give you a new engine or pay you money if your engine gave out before the 150,000 or 300,000 mile mark. Sounds like just a bunch of advertising poo poo to me!

01-05-2010, 12:20 AM	#61
N9QGS View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Georgetown, KY Posts: 117	I switched to Mobil1 synthetic at 36K, and I am 122K changing it every 5K and I have excellent oil analysis, I pay 22$ for 5 qts plus use toyota filter. I will change to conventional only if I seem to start loosing any oil, but so far its been a great car. __________________ 198K Miles

01-07-2010, 02:03 PM	#71
devinlamothe Drives: '07 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Sudbury, Canada Posts: 520	To be honest, I have NO idea if synthetic is better than conventional - however we do get quite insane temps here (re: -40c), so I figured I may as well use it. No idea either if it helps with cold weather starts, but from my own experience, I have never had my car NOT start in extreme temps. __________________

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01-04-2010, 07:41 PM	#59
chai Go Duke! Drives: '09 Sedan AT Join Date: May 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 33	I might be seeing -40C temperatures next month...

01-05-2010, 02:41 AM	#62
ddongbap Banned Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: hay Posts: 2,183	It never fails. Someone always has to bring up a debate about Syn and conventional oils. The outcome is the same. Internet heroes will debate. BTW, to whoever said the comment about the oil color. Metal shards don't change the color of the oil, but it'll sure mess some stuff up.

01-06-2010, 06:08 PM	#67
TheSilkySmooth Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 622	I'll start. Just came from Lowe's. They stock Briggs and Stratton 5w-30 Full synthetic (32oz) oil with NO API or ILSAC rating. Should be highly additised to a fleet or HDEO level. They had it incorrectly low priced (i had a clerk verify) at 5.98USD a quart. Seems like this would be the nuts for a VTEC engine or a wailed-on Yaris for the winter. Proceed at your own risk. BTW, they also had MTD 5w-30 API SJ/CF HDEO snowking oil for 4.78 for 28oz. Tempting ....

01-06-2010, 08:22 PM	#68
ddongbap Banned Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: hay Posts: 2,183	Honda guys know better. They run conventional.

01-07-2010, 05:37 PM	#72
b_hickman11 Drives: 08 Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Tyler, TX Posts: 899	Just got back from Wal-Mart and I just happen to walk down the oil dept. Most conventional oil bottles advertise a 150,000 mile warranty and some syn oil bottles advertise 300,000 mile warranty. I don't plan on putting more than 150,000 on either of my Yaris's, the average temp in the winter where I live is 48 degrees, and I don't drive my car like I'm racing it in the Daytona 500.....Therefore syn oil has no benefit over conventional oil for me. Thats probably why the shelves where full of syn and about 1/4-1/2 full of conventional. ps....speaking of the mile warranties...I doubt the oil companies would actually give you a new engine or pay you money if your engine gave out before the 150,000 or 300,000 mile mark. Sounds like just a bunch of advertising poo poo to me!