Alarm Wiring Advise Needed - Toyota Yaris Forums

Lil Abner · 09-25-2010, 10:33 PM

I spent the day wiring up my alarm/remote start on my 09 LB. I used the information on the site, and the awesome PDF that CTScott put together. At the same time I wired some other things up, including my fog lights. There are 2 "problems" here.

1. I wired my fog switch to the parking lights, so the fogs can be on regardless of the headlights, but still off when all the lights are off. From the light socket, I t-tapped off pin 13, into the switch, then out to pin 3 to trigger the "factory" relay location. This works great.

However, the problem is from the alarm. The alarm is a Viper 5900. The alarm has a "Selectable Light Flash Output" to flash the parking lights when you lock/unlock the doors. My fogs are HID, so I can't allow my alarm to flash the parking lights, which would trigger the fog lights. So I did what the factory alarm did, and tied it into the hazards relay. This works great for the lock/unlock. BUT, when I auto-start the car, the alarm turns the selectable light output ON, which causes the hazards to flash. To be honest, I don't want my car running in the winter with the hazards flashing.

Suggestions? Is there a way to tap into JUST the running lights that won't trigger my fog wiring??

2. I designed up a neutral safety switch for my standard transmission. It's an IR optical circuit. Ideally, I don't need it always turned on. I thought the alarm had an output that would turn on before the remote start cycle, turning the optical system on, then triggering the "neutral safety switch" input, allowing a start. But I was wrong. Suggestions? Or am I stuck with it always on?

The optical circuit basically reads the position of the shifter. If it's in neutral, it triggers the "neutral safety switch" input on the alarm, and also bypasses the clutch pedal switch. But I only want it to do this during remote start, not daily driving.

Thanks ahead for suggestions.

Curt

Palmer812 · 09-25-2010, 10:48 PM

My first instinct on the hazard lights is to program them to constant instead of flashing while remote started.That way they would be on but not flashing. That way you can look and see if the car is running or not. That would be very quick and easy. It is menu 3 feature 4. I will try to think of another option but that popped into my head first.

Lil Abner · 09-25-2010, 10:52 PM

Palmer812, the output is actually a constant output during remote start. But because I tied into the hazard switch/relay, when given a constant signal, they flash. My alarm has the 2-way remote, so I can tell if it's running without seeing the car. You sound like you know DEI products? Do you know if I can turn off the lights while it's on remote start?

Lil Abner · 09-25-2010, 10:58 PM

I just looked, and yes, 3-4 is for changing from flashing to constant. But that's only for the lock/unlock feature, which is working fine.

CTScott · 09-25-2010, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lil Abner

I spent the day wiring up my alarm/remote start on my 09 LB. I used the information on the site, and the awesome PDF that CTScott put together. At the same time I wired some other things up, including my fog lights. There are 2 "problems" here.

1. I wired my fog switch to the parking lights, so the fogs can be on regardless of the headlights, but still off when all the lights are off. From the light socket, I t-tapped off pin 13, into the switch, then out to pin 3 to trigger the "factory" relay location. This works great.

However, the problem is from the alarm. The alarm is a Viper 5900. The alarm has a "Selectable Light Flash Output" to flash the parking lights when you lock/unlock the doors. My fogs are HID, so I can't allow my alarm to flash the parking lights, which would trigger the fog lights. So I did what the factory alarm did, and tied it into the hazards relay. This works great for the lock/unlock. BUT, when I auto-start the car, the alarm turns the selectable light output ON, which causes the hazards to flash. To be honest, I don't want my car running in the winter with the hazards flashing.

Suggestions? Is there a way to tap into JUST the running lights that won't trigger my fog wiring??

2. I designed up a neutral safety switch for my standard transmission. It's an IR optical circuit. Ideally, I don't need it always turned on. I thought the alarm had an output that would turn on before the remote start cycle, turning the optical system on, then triggering the "neutral safety switch" input, allowing a start. But I was wrong. Suggestions? Or am I stuck with it always on?

The optical circuit basically reads the position of the shifter. If it's in neutral, it triggers the "neutral safety switch" input on the alarm, and also bypasses the clutch pedal switch. But I only want it to do this during remote start, not daily driving.

Thanks ahead for suggestions.

Curt

You can use a diode to turn on the parking lights without the fogs. Cut the parking light wire. Connect the alarm parking light flash (-) wire to the harness end of the cut wire. Also connect the anode of a diode to that same point. Connect the cathode of the diode (the end with the stripe) to the connector end of the cut wire and also connect the fog light wire to that same point. The diode will allow the fogs to turn on with the headlight switch, but not with the alarm.

For the neutral safety circuit - Most remote starters turn the ignition on for a second before cranking, so theoretically you can just power it from the ignition switched power.

Palmer812 · 09-25-2010, 10:59 PM

You should have a blue/white wire on the alarm that is a status output wire. It sends a negative trigger when remote start is activated. You should be able to use it to trigger your neutral safety. You will probably need a relay though.

Palmer812 · 09-25-2010, 11:02 PM

Feature 3-4 also works while remote started. Not just arming and disarming.

Lil Abner · 09-25-2010, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

You can use a diode to turn on the parking lights without the fogs. Cut the parking light wire. Connect the alarm parking light flash (-) wire to the harness end of the cut wire. Also connect the anode of a diode to that same point. Connect the cathode of the diode (the end with the stripe) to the connector end of the cut wire and also connect the fog light wire to that same point. The diode will allow the fogs to turn on with the headlight switch, but not with the alarm.

For the neutral safety circuit - Most remote starters turn the ignition on for a second before cranking, so theoretically you can just power it from the ignition switched power.

The diode idea, perfect solution! I will wire that up tomorrow.

As for the ignition, I don't think that will work. For some reason my starter needs the "neutral switch" grounded, which triggers a relay, allowing the ignition, then starter to kick.

Lil Abner · 09-25-2010, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palmer812

You should have a blue/white wire on the alarm that is a status output wire. It sends a negative trigger when remote start is activated. You should be able to use it to trigger your neutral safety. You will probably need a relay though.

Yeah, I actually pulled the blue/white wire to my optical switch, thinking I could do just as you said. But I ran a multimeter on the wire, and I couldn't come up with anything. Not a ground, nor voltage. Unless I need to put a relay in to get it to work. I'll try the relay thing tomorrow and see.

And yeah, my setting on 3-4 is set to "constant" right now. But I think since I have it tied to the hazard relay it flashes. I'm going to try CTScott's idea with the diode and go from there.

Thanks Palmer812 and CTScott. I'll report back tomorrow what I come up with!

CTScott · 09-25-2010, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lil Abner

The diode idea, perfect solution! I will wire that up tomorrow.

As for the ignition, I don't think that will work. For some reason my starter needs the "neutral switch" grounded, which triggers a relay, allowing the ignition, then starter to kick.

If it samples the neutral switch first, you will to give your circuit constant power. If you are doing the switching with a transistor rather than a relay, your circuit should only draw less than 1 mA,

Palmer812 · 09-25-2010, 11:10 PM

Yes the blue/white is only 200ma I think so you need a relay. And it is a negative trigger.

Lil Abner · 09-25-2010, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

If it samples the neutral switch first, you will to give your circuit constant power. If you are doing the switching with a transistor rather than a relay, your circuit should only draw less than 1 mA,

I'm powering the circuit straight up with no relay. The circuit is a Quad AND gate with 4 IR receivers/emitters. The Quad AND triggers 2 optical relays, one for the neutral safety switch, the other for the clutch pedal bypass. But if I'm going to use the blue/white wire, I'll need to use a relay to power the circuit. Either that or I have a bunch of PNP and NPN transistors sitting around I could use. Total current draw on the current is unknown.

Lil Abner · 09-25-2010, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palmer812

Yes the blue/white is only 200ma I think so you need a relay. And it is a negative trigger.

I was hoping the blue/white could have just acted as a ground, again hoping my circuit had a low enough current draw. I'll try the relay idea to see if it works. If it does, I'll plan from there. Good thing I didn't build the final circuit board.

Lil Abner · 09-25-2010, 11:19 PM

I know this is the wrong place, but this is where I put my fog switch. I'll post it up in a thread of everything at a later time. And yes, the dimmer pops out like stock.

Lil Abner · 09-26-2010, 10:11 AM

Palmer, I went and tried the relay with no direct luck. I setup the relay with the blue/white on the coil, a 12V+ on the other coil terminal. Black/White (NSS) into the switch, chassis ground on the other. Nothing.

However, if I ground the black/white wire, the car THEN will provide a ground to the blue/white wire. Sort of backwards as to how I would set it up.

This just means I'll keep the black/white grounded, then use the blue/white to trigger a relay, turning on the optical circuit, which would then bypass the clutch switch. Not the way I wanted to do it, but I guess it will have to work.

Thanks again for your help.

And CTScott, as usual, your idea worked like a charm! Thanks again!

09-25-2010, 10:33 PM	#1
Lil Abner Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Dublin, Ohio Posts: 412	Alarm Wiring Advise Needed I spent the day wiring up my alarm/remote start on my 09 LB. I used the information on the site, and the awesome PDF that CTScott put together. At the same time I wired some other things up, including my fog lights. There are 2 "problems" here. 1. I wired my fog switch to the parking lights, so the fogs can be on regardless of the headlights, but still off when all the lights are off. From the light socket, I t-tapped off pin 13, into the switch, then out to pin 3 to trigger the "factory" relay location. This works great. However, the problem is from the alarm. The alarm is a Viper 5900. The alarm has a "Selectable Light Flash Output" to flash the parking lights when you lock/unlock the doors. My fogs are HID, so I can't allow my alarm to flash the parking lights, which would trigger the fog lights. So I did what the factory alarm did, and tied it into the hazards relay. This works great for the lock/unlock. BUT, when I auto-start the car, the alarm turns the selectable light output ON, which causes the hazards to flash. To be honest, I don't want my car running in the winter with the hazards flashing. Suggestions? Is there a way to tap into JUST the running lights that won't trigger my fog wiring?? 2. I designed up a neutral safety switch for my standard transmission. It's an IR optical circuit. Ideally, I don't need it always turned on. I thought the alarm had an output that would turn on before the remote start cycle, turning the optical system on, then triggering the "neutral safety switch" input, allowing a start. But I was wrong. Suggestions? Or am I stuck with it always on? The optical circuit basically reads the position of the shifter. If it's in neutral, it triggers the "neutral safety switch" input on the alarm, and also bypasses the clutch pedal switch. But I only want it to do this during remote start, not daily driving. Thanks ahead for suggestions. Curt

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09-25-2010, 10:48 PM	#2
Palmer812 Drives: 2010 Meteorite Metallic LB Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 251	My first instinct on the hazard lights is to program them to constant instead of flashing while remote started.That way they would be on but not flashing. That way you can look and see if the car is running or not. That would be very quick and easy. It is menu 3 feature 4. I will try to think of another option but that popped into my head first.

09-25-2010, 10:52 PM	#3
Lil Abner Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Dublin, Ohio Posts: 412	Palmer812, the output is actually a constant output during remote start. But because I tied into the hazard switch/relay, when given a constant signal, they flash. My alarm has the 2-way remote, so I can tell if it's running without seeing the car. You sound like you know DEI products? Do you know if I can turn off the lights while it's on remote start?

09-25-2010, 10:58 PM	#4
Lil Abner Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Dublin, Ohio Posts: 412	I just looked, and yes, 3-4 is for changing from flashing to constant. But that's only for the lock/unlock feature, which is working fine.

09-25-2010, 10:59 PM	#6
Palmer812 Drives: 2010 Meteorite Metallic LB Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 251	You should have a blue/white wire on the alarm that is a status output wire. It sends a negative trigger when remote start is activated. You should be able to use it to trigger your neutral safety. You will probably need a relay though.

09-25-2010, 11:02 PM	#7
Palmer812 Drives: 2010 Meteorite Metallic LB Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 251	Feature 3-4 also works while remote started. Not just arming and disarming.

09-25-2010, 11:10 PM	#11
Palmer812 Drives: 2010 Meteorite Metallic LB Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 251	Yes the blue/white is only 200ma I think so you need a relay. And it is a negative trigger.

09-25-2010, 11:19 PM	#14
Lil Abner Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Dublin, Ohio Posts: 412	I know this is the wrong place, but this is where I put my fog switch. I'll post it up in a thread of everything at a later time. And yes, the dimmer pops out like stock.

09-26-2010, 10:11 AM	#15
Lil Abner Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Dublin, Ohio Posts: 412	Palmer, I went and tried the relay with no direct luck. I setup the relay with the blue/white on the coil, a 12V+ on the other coil terminal. Black/White (NSS) into the switch, chassis ground on the other. Nothing. However, if I ground the black/white wire, the car THEN will provide a ground to the blue/white wire. Sort of backwards as to how I would set it up. This just means I'll keep the black/white grounded, then use the blue/white to trigger a relay, turning on the optical circuit, which would then bypass the clutch switch. Not the way I wanted to do it, but I guess it will have to work. Thanks again for your help. And CTScott, as usual, your idea worked like a charm! Thanks again!