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Old 01-02-2009, 08:45 AM   #1
2006fronty
 
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Question Higher capacity oil filter????

Right now I either use a K&N hp-1003 or a Mobil1 m-1003 for oil changes in my Yaris. I've been wondering if any of you know of, or have used a higher capacity filter? On my tundra I use a longer filter, and I figured more filtering area couldn't hurt since there really aren't any space constrictions with the Yaris' oil filter location.
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:00 PM   #2
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go to your local auto parts store and get your filter. open some boxes until one matches the diameter and then see if its bigger in length. idk any part numbers off hand or i would give them to you, so thats my suggestion.
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Old 01-02-2009, 02:08 PM   #3
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While it sounds like a good idea, I've experienced valve tap in a Nissan 3.5 Maxima and a Quest I owned from a large filter. Wix filters 1356 and 1365 are nearly identical, with one being just slightly taller than the other. A simple transposition of the numbers and I ended up with the larger filter. I thought all was well since the filters were identical, except a taller, larger capacity filter. After paying attention for a while, I figured out that the larger filter caused valve tap for about 3 seconds on a dry start up. Something we can do without, for sure.
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Old 01-02-2009, 02:29 PM   #4
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the fram PH4386 is recommended for the "high performance" toyota engines of the 80's... it's about 1" longer than the PH4967 (which is the same overall size as the OE toyota filter)

i personally run the "truck" filter from toyota, it's much larger diameter, and much longer.. i have no valve tapping issues
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:13 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 2006fronty View Post
Right now I either use a K&N hp-1003 or a Mobil1 m-1003 for oil changes in my Yaris. I've been wondering if any of you know of, or have used a higher capacity filter? On my tundra I use a longer filter, and I figured more filtering area couldn't hurt since there really aren't any space constrictions with the Yaris' oil filter location.
How often do you change your oil? The larger capacity will do nothing for you...I recommend a normal sized, efficient oil filter. The Mobil 1 filter should be more than adequate.
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:43 PM   #6
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Purolater makes a filter that is 1 inch longer. The OEM size is part# 14476
The inch longer model is part# 14477. It is available in both standard and Pure 1 models. Just add the proper prefix to the part number.
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Old 01-02-2009, 05:48 PM   #7
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If you want to go crazy, you could get an Amsoil remote mount filter with pre filter.
Thats right TWO filters. nothing is going to get by.
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Old 01-02-2009, 08:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikenacarato View Post
go to your local auto parts store and get your filter. open some boxes until one matches the diameter and then see if its bigger in length. idk any part numbers off hand or i would give them to you, so thats my suggestion.
I've sorta done that but its kind of hard to know what size thread is on the filter by eyeballing it, K&N is the only filter that I can find the thread pitch and dimensions of online. I haven't been able to find mobil1 specs online.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chupacabra View Post
How often do you change your oil? The larger capacity will do nothing for you...I recommend a normal sized, efficient oil filter. The Mobil 1 filter should be more than adequate.
I follow the factory maintenance schedule, so Mobil1 every 5000 ( no I'm not caveatipse haha) with either a Mobil1 or K&N filter.

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If you want to go crazy, you could get an Amsoil remote mount filter with pre filter.
Thats right TWO filters. nothing is going to get by.
I've actually been thinking about one of those stainless steel mesh lifetime filters, not so much for being "lifetime" but because they have a strong magnet to catch debris. A remote filter would be nice to have for easy oil changes, I'm spoiled by the location of my oil filter on my Tundra:
this is a picture of a Tacoma but my truck is the same.
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Old 01-02-2009, 10:02 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Tamago View Post
i personally run the "truck" filter from toyota, it's much larger diameter, and much longer.. i have no valve tapping issues
please enlighten us some more on this "TRUCK" filter.....
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROCKLAND TOYOTA View Post
please enlighten us some more on this "TRUCK" filter.....
90915-YZZD3 is the filter used on toyota's larger engines... used to be called a "truck" filter because toyota didn't have any big "car" engines.. so it's sometimes referred to as a "truck" filter..


the big one...



but you should know this since you WORK for toyota....
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POORSHA View Post
If you want to go crazy, you could get an Amsoil remote mount filter with pre filter.
Thats right TWO filters. nothing is going to get by.
Actually the Amsoil two-filter rig is different, it's not just two normal oil filters. One is a normal filter, yes, the other is a 'bypass' oil filter, which is an entirely different beast almost only seen on big-rig trucks: It has no bypass valve, so it forces all the oil through it's filter media before letting it past. They are usually much, much more restrictive filters despite being much larger as well (filtering down to 1-2 microns instead of 9-20 microns for normal filters), so they also as a side-effect filter incredibly well. It relies on the normal oil filter to keep the engine supplied while it does it's filtering nice and slow.

Overall it would just about double the engine oil capacity if you find space to mount the maxxed-out kit (8.5" x 4" x 10"/13.5" block, add 2.5" if you get the oil pre-charger) in the engine bay. I can get them shipped for about $325-350/package (BMK-23, BK-295, BK-13, EaO-26, EaBP-110, SSO1G-EA x 2 for the Yaris) if anyone wants to get such a setup. The precharger is very compact and a nice design, though something like an AccuSump is more cost-effective, it adds around $360 my cost to get the Amsoil one that bolts right onto their dual-remote-filter systems. So yes, the precharger more than doubles the cost by itself, it's nuts.
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:49 PM   #12
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2006Fronty said;

"I've actually been thinking about one of those stainless steel mesh lifetime filters, not so much for being "lifetime" but because they have a strong magnet to catch debris. A remote filter would be nice to have for easy oil changes, I'm spoiled by the location of my oil filter on my Tundra:"

I have one from PurePower, got it when I got the one for my Harley. It is still in the plastic wrap as I had just done the oil change and wasn't going to waste the synthetic changing it out. Was going to wait for the next change. Anyway, I'll let it go for $150.00 plus shipping if you are interested. I think that's about $100.00 off what they are asking. Construction is superb and the bling factor can't be beat (if your into that). If you don't take it, next oil change it goes on. On a side note, the True Filter, also a stainless model is out there. It is made by a person who copied PurePower and was an ex-employee. PurePower claims the Truefilter is inferior to theirs offering either a By-pass valve or magnet not both. From what I've been told lawsuits are pending on copyright infringements etc.
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:01 PM   #13
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I wouldn't do anything differently from what you are doing now aside from possibly changing the oil at 3500 miles as opposed to 5000. Aside from that, you are ahead of the game by using the M1 filter alone.
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Old 01-04-2009, 12:32 AM   #14
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I use the wix part # for the 2005 2AZFE 2.4L toyota engine, same thread , base plate but about 1/2" longer. This filter is always filled with oil, vertical mount, with an ADBV, so there should be no dry start issues. The Purolater part # for the 2.4 has the largest filter capacity, but only catches about 1-1/2 threads fully engaged on our 2008 1.5L 1nz and this is not enough thread engagement to be safe. Let me know if you find something even better. The wix part number for the 2az has the same flow spec and bypass valve opening pressure as the 1nz so no differing performance issues on filter spec. Personally I found the purolater to have the best high rpm performance on my car - the vvt doesnt seem to snap into high rpm cam retard and power "boost" as reliably with the denso or the wix - dont know why this is so Wish the purolater had better thread engagement - maybe our car has a short filter mout plate "nipple" for some odd reason?

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Old 01-04-2009, 11:39 AM   #15
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Hell, might as well mention this here too, the Amsoil 'extra half inch' filter is the EaO10 instead of the EaO09 they specify for our cars/engines. Anything beyond that (which is all of US$0.10-0.50 more cost per filter), just get a remote-filter-mount kit from any good performance-shop or on-line and slap on a big-ass diesel truck filter, end of topic.
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Old 01-04-2009, 05:14 PM   #16
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I'd continue to use the filter the engineers designed for the car.My Echo has over 200000kms with no signs of engine wear using Mobil1 at 10000kms intervals. If you really want to get compulsive about the oil on this inexpensive little economy car consider a prelube system as well as the most expensive filter you can buy and change oil every 1000 miles. http://www.autoenginelube.com/
Personally i hope to trade the car after 5-6 years and let some one else deal with the cars ultimate demise.
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Old 01-04-2009, 10:01 PM   #17
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The last time I got an oil change, we used Motul and a tC filter from Toyota. It's larger and works just as fine as the stock.
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Old 01-05-2009, 06:07 PM   #18
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I'd continue to use the filter the engineers designed for the car.My Echo has over 200000kms with no signs of engine wear using Mobil1 at 10000kms intervals. If you really want to get compulsive about the oil on this inexpensive little economy car consider a prelube system as well as the most expensive filter you can buy and change oil every 1000 miles. http://www.autoenginelube.com/
Personally i hope to trade the car after 5-6 years and let some one else deal with the cars ultimate demise.
Did you measure cam lobe, and top of cyl bore? Or Just guessing. I just read on Jobbersworld Mobil-1 5W-30 does not even meet mineral oil Sm/GF-4 minimum spec for wear. Crazy huh?
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