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Old 10-04-2018, 01:21 PM   #55
tmontague
 
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Nice! I bet that would sound real nice without a muffler...
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Old 10-04-2018, 03:57 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Nice! I bet that would sound real nice without a muffler...
Just got an email a few minues ago:

"Part: Magnaflow 52159 - Direct Fit OEM Grade Catalytic Converter (2.25" ID/2.25" OD)


The product you ordered Is out of stock with the manufacturer with NO eta on when it will be back in production. We apologize for the inconvenience this may cause, give us a call at 1800 276 7566 to source you some alternatives or simply reply to this email with an alternative part number.

Thank you,

TDot Performance Support
"

DANG!!!
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Old 10-04-2018, 04:06 PM   #57
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Never dealt with TDot but I do have vivid memories of watching them pitch on Dragon's Den a few seasons back.

https://www.cbc.ca/player/play/2679921109

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Old 10-04-2018, 04:53 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Never dealt with TDot but I do have vivid memories of watching them pitch on Dragon's Den a few seasons back.

https://www.cbc.ca/player/play/2679921109

Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk
Just watched it. Interesting. Their customer service seems good. They took the call quickly, not big wait and were very apologetic. I had a refund notice moments later. They did try to source an alternative part to no avail.

So, I'm done with searching. I just ordered the Eastern Catalytic midpipe and hardware from Rock Auto. I'll bolt that up to my Yaris muffler for the time being.

I'm wondering if the other aftermarket Walker muffler has better flow than the OEM style muffler. If I got the non-oem style, I could at least put a nice tip on it.



Adam didn't seem to think there was much difference in diameter of the piping between the aftermarket exhaust and the Yaris, so I'll go with that for now. Maybe sometime down the road, I'll look at an axleback performance muffler or plan a custom axleback.
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Old 10-04-2018, 05:08 PM   #59
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Aftermarket Motor Mount Opinion - Help Please

I put the bracket on the cheap mount. This is the result. I don't think I want to bother putting this in the car. Please check out the video. Looks like time to order the actual OEM mount.This may have just been a $60.00 experiment.

Advice appreciated. Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5milc-eiyF0
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:46 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Just watched it. Interesting. Their customer service seems good. They took the call quickly, not big wait and were very apologetic. I had a refund notice moments later. They did try to source an alternative part to no avail.

So, I'm done with searching. I just ordered the Eastern Catalytic midpipe and hardware from Rock Auto. I'll bolt that up to my Yaris muffler for the time being.

I'm wondering if the other aftermarket Walker muffler has better flow than the OEM style muffler. If I got the non-oem style, I could at least put a nice tip on it.



Adam didn't seem to think there was much difference in diameter of the piping between the aftermarket exhaust and the Yaris, so I'll go with that for now. Maybe sometime down the road, I'll look at an axleback performance muffler or plan a custom axleback.
Walker diameter looks larger. Yaris muffler is tiny and is very restrictive- crazy quiet but very restrictive. I'd recommend the Walker set up.

I've had ok experience w/ tdot and they are easy to get a hold of. They are just so large they never seem to have their shit together. Ron told me about Garage16 and every since then I'll be using them from now on for performance parts
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:05 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Walker diameter looks larger. Yaris muffler is tiny and is very restrictive- crazy quiet but very restrictive. I'd recommend the Walker set up.

I've had ok experience w/ tdot and they are easy to get a hold of. They are just so large they never seem to have their shit together. Ron told me about Garage16 and every since then I'll be using them from now on for performance parts
I'll check out Garage16 in a bit. Thanks.

I agree, the Walker looks better.

I really like the look these but expect that they would do little to keep the noise at a reasonable level. Nor do I know if I'd have enough room. Have to do some measurements and, of course, would have to weld the hanger in the right place. I'd cut my current muffler off and use the piece from the axle to the new muffler and an adapter to bring it up to size


I wonder if my new midpipe with its 2 cats and resonator and one of the mufflers below would produce a reasonable sound. I know they're probably cheap junk (at under $40.00 USD each) but my car won't be driven in the winter so at least it wouldn't have to contend with salt and sand. I have a little more faith in the cheap import stainless steel products as both of my cheap $3.60 exhaust tips are still perfect. The one on my 08 has been through a winter and is still mint.



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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-04-2018 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:24 PM   #62
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Tonight's Project:

Wire harness inspection. I am learning each connector by using the "Location C", "Engine Control", "Connector List" and "Ignition System" pdfs from Techinfo. The more I dig into this, the less intimidated I am with regard to this swap. That said, I know there is a lot ahead of me. I'll use Trevor's pic of his MAF wiring to plan that modification.

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Old 10-04-2018, 08:37 PM   #63
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Good idea. I found that helped a ton with wrapping my head around it all. Having parts come in early and you tinkering with them and setting them up makes it much simpler when it is time to install it

I sort of had no choice as I had 5 days to do the swap and have my car running to get me to class and work so I over prepared out of necessity. But in general it will make things go smoother.
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Old 10-04-2018, 10:28 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Good idea. I found that helped a ton with wrapping my head around it all. Having parts come in early and you tinkering with them and setting them up makes it much simpler when it is time to install it

I sort of had no choice as I had 5 days to do the swap and have my car running to get me to class and work so I over prepared out of necessity. But in general it will make things go smoother.
For sure. I like to look at the diagrams to see how everything interrelates. My plan for the MAF wiring is set. Got my soldering iron, heat shrink, loom and electrical tape ready. I thought I'd ordered a mini add a fuse, but I haven't yet. Will pick one up tomorrow.

If you had a chance to look at my engine mount youtube vid, I'd appreciate your opinion. You used an OEM one, right? The slightest force moves the bracket up and down. I can only imagine the engine bucking around. I expect that the OEM mount is much more solid. I understand how all mounts triangulate to keep the engine in place, but the movement on this mount seems excessive and it creaks a lot!

Thanks!
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Old 10-05-2018, 06:35 AM   #65
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Hmm, yes I used a used OEM mount and it definitely doesn't seem to move as much as that one. Worst case scenario you can install it on the car and if the engine moves around too much then swap if for an oem unit. They are easy to replace once the engine is in the car.

Either way that seems like a lot of movement from that mount
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Old 10-05-2018, 09:35 AM   #66
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Wow, 4 pages already!

I second using the OEM engine hooks. I can't remember if the part number is available in the parts diagrams or if it's only in the repair manual.

Good on you for diving in to the EWDs! Once you understand the naming/numbering conventions, it's pretty simple. You can even search the PDFs for connector names to help with cross referencing.

The one thing that I would do differently on mine would be to partially drop the subframe before attempting to install the engine/trans assembly. I was so focused on the trans not clearing the subframe that I ran the load leveler into the base of the windshield. Not a fun repair for a moment's distraction. If you only remove the front bolts and partially remove the rear bolts, it should give you enough room.
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Old 10-05-2018, 10:10 AM   #67
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That reminds me - I'd highly recommend taking an air hammer or sledge hammer to the "wing" of the subframe that sticks out right near the transmission drain bolt.

It gives you a bit more clearance and make fluid drains less messy in a m/t. It's easier to do with an empty engine bay. It a flat pthin piece if subframe that is easy to bend away
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Old 10-05-2018, 01:38 PM   #68
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I actually opened and dissected a spare 2zr engine harnes, then did a write up on my blog discussing all of the wires and their purpose. Check it out if you want:
http://www.armstrongfamilyblog.com/a...sses-disection
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Old 10-05-2018, 03:43 PM   #69
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Glad you've made some good progress!

w.r.t. the Walker muffler - that "U" shape that comes out of the muffler is ~1.5", which is actually tighter than the stock Yaris' pipes; Walker made 0 attempt to mandrel bend anything, so bends are very restrictive - at least the factory, while not perfect, maintains most of the 1.75" diameter.

I actually had the exact same order and response from TDot - the customer service was great, and I've ordered from them again for some other, smaller part that they had a decent price on just because of the customer service. Come across Garage16, but never heard first hand feedback, so good to hear they've been decent.

I second Sam's point about the cross member - I think it'd make life a lot easier for the extra bit of work to drop it. Alternatively, Trevor's point about clearancing it would work - I also got hung up on the damn thing a lot, but at least didn't smoke my windscreen..

Can't wait to see ya dive into it!
-- Adam
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Old 10-05-2018, 07:25 PM   #70
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Thanks gentlemen!

I will plan to both loosen the subframe as well as bend back the tab as recommended as recommended by Sam and Trevor. I checked out your wiring guide, Tom. Thanks for that. It is very helpful. It's sad, Adam, that an affordable (subjective) exhaust system isn't available. When you say the "U" shape, are you talking about where the muffler does the 90 degree turn and heads to the tailpipe? The other design style 'looks' as though it might be less restrictive. I'm really disappointed that I didn't get the Magnaflow. How long ago did you try to buy yours from tDot? Because, they still have the listing up on their site.


My engine arrived today. I just have to get one of my buddies with half tons to take me across to get it. As much as I was hoping to have it this weekend, it's likely going to be early to mid next week.
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Old 10-05-2018, 07:43 PM   #71
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fwiw I never found that the subframe was any issue nor did I feel that loosening it would have made any difference. I also had a hoist and engine leveller to help. I found I wheels the engine into the engine bay (super careful of the lack fo space for the width of ther 2zr) and then slowly bolted each of the side engine mounts on but kept them loose. I then got the dogbone mount in and then tightened it all up. Having a jack underneath helps the get the engine in a better position (use a 2x4 under the oil pan.)

I actually did the clearancing with an air hammer after when I went to pull the trans for the lightweight flywheel. It's just that its easier to do with the engine out of the engine bay.

If others state is easier with the subframe loosened then I'd probably do it just in case. Just keep in mind it will require an alignment once it is all back in place which is one of the reasons I didn't bother with it.

Splitting the trans and engine sucks with the 2zr since everything becomes so limited with width. Anything you need to do to the trans do it while it's out of the car.

In my experience w/ Tdot performance is really friendly and shipping is very fast if a place has the part you are looking for (Tdot carries no inventory they are simply an online seller or middleman between stores and the online consumer). However the problems arise when parts are not properly labelled for the proper year of manufacture for a car. It took way too many calls to have them refund me 10% due to their mistake. My wife had to call while I was at work and every time they saids they would do it and kept forgetting. There were also delays on getting my seat bracket once it was made and when I had to order it after they gave me the wrong one the first time I was told it was ordered and then 3 days later was told I need to order it to get it started. Not a terrible experience really but more of a piss off that leaves a bad taste in your mouth when you purchase a part expecting it to be ready in time for track days you have booked. I always try to use a smaller company when the products are a similar price and quality. I have always had better experiences with smaller companies as there is usually less people that things have to go through to get done.
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Old 10-06-2018, 03:46 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
For sure. I like to look at the diagrams to see how everything interrelates. My plan for the MAF wiring is set. Got my soldering iron, heat shrink, loom and electrical tape ready. I thought I'd ordered a mini add a fuse, but I haven't yet. Will pick one up tomorrow.

If you had a chance to look at my engine mount youtube vid, I'd appreciate your opinion. You used an OEM one, right? The slightest force moves the bracket up and down. I can only imagine the engine bucking around. I expect that the OEM mount is much more solid. I understand how all mounts triangulate to keep the engine in place, but the movement on this mount seems excessive and it creaks a lot!

Thanks!
I have a brand new Scion XD engine mount sitting on my desk and I can confirm it does not move to the degree your aftermarket one does. If I really try I can slightly move the bracket attached to the top bolt, but it's pretty stiff.

Personally, I wouldn't use that mount. Send it back as defective and buy OEM.

Part number should be (But please check with your dealer)

12305-37190 - https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-part...unt-1230537190
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