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Old 10-25-2009, 08:29 PM   #19
BuildCode
 
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I'm going to order a block heater if I can get one for $50 or less, not having to deal with coolant to install it awesome. I found the hole in the block where the heater is supposed to go, and wow...it is not easy to get to on stick shift cars...

Anyone with stick shift want to comment on how difficult the install is since you have to disconnect the manual linkages?
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Old 10-26-2009, 12:08 PM   #20
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I have the manual transmission. Removing the clutch bracket and putting it back on was easy (literally a couple minutes total). The hard part for me was not being able to see when I was putting the heater in. Expect to squirm around for a couple hours trying (in vain) to find a angle to see what you are doing. You will end up having to 'trust your feelings'.
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Old 10-26-2009, 12:41 PM   #21
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From where are you guys ordering the heaters?
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:54 PM   #22
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I had ordered it from my local dealer's parts department.
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:52 PM   #23
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sweet thanks linny
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:16 PM   #24
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BuildCode,

I had to order mine from out of state as my local dealer had none and said it would be a while before they could get one. The dealer I ordered from was in MN and they shipped it at reasonable cost and very quickly. If you can't source one locally let me know and I can PM you the info.
It might even be the same dealer linny got his from, lol.

R2
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:25 AM   #25
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Kolar auto world Duluth Mn
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Old 10-27-2009, 09:19 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R2D2 View Post
BuildCode,

I had to order mine from out of state as my local dealer had none and said it would be a while before they could get one. The dealer I ordered from was in MN and they shipped it at reasonable cost and very quickly. If you can't source one locally let me know and I can PM you the info.
It might even be the same dealer linny got his from, lol.

R2
Okay cool. The parts guy at my dealer said freeze plug over the phone and I had to stop him and say I wasn't going to pre-pay for him to order it if he wasn't sure it was the correct kind. We shall see!
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:58 PM   #27
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Thanks again to everyone for the pointers on where the heater socket was located. I got the block heater in today and it only took about 30 minutes. This is a really easy install (on an automatic, anyway) and one shouldn't have to have the dealer do it.

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Old 10-29-2009, 12:05 AM   #28
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Jon glad it went well!

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Old 10-30-2009, 04:51 PM   #29
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I currently have the block heater, and yes, it really does help.

I also have an oil pan heater and a battery heater to install when the weather cooperates.
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:53 PM   #30
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Mission Impossible

Well. I did it. With an Automatic trans block heater part # (PU140-0900) as well. All odds were against myself and my friend who helped. It was very time consuming, and it involved a few...hacks...



I had to cut the 90ļ rubber boot off the cable, and turn it into more of a "straight out" type connector. I had to do this because the only way the block heater will fit in is: rotated so the flat spot is against the manual transmission. The manual transmission is in the way!! There may indeed be a correct part for manual transmissions, but the three Toyota dealers I called said this wasn't true, even though I've seen on every forum that the manual trans needs a different part # (C0140-0900) block heater!

I talked to a tech at a Toyota dealer and he had never put a block heater in a stick shift Yaris. The parts dept said there was no such thing as a different block heater for a stick shift, they only knew of the one part.

I especially didn't want to have to send this part back and find the other part elsewhere, so I made this one work! It was not possible to use the clip! Hard to explain, but there was no way to rotate it, shave it, etc, to make it fit with the manual transmission in the way. I lubed up the heater, inserted it all the way, and zip tied the wire very securely. It's not moving at all, that silver heat shielding is very stiff.

After cutting the 90ļ rubber boot off, I bet the wire out more, and pushed the heat shielding up to cover the wire, and then re-taped it (not pictured).




The wire was very easy to route, I followed the nearby wire harness, and then dropped down to the front left lower fascia:





For any other manual owners, it's very cramped with the shift linkages, they have to be removed: Silver wire harness bracket (one 12mm bolt), shift cables, shift linkage bracket (two 14mm bolts). Oh, and I took the battery out, which was helpful.

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Old 11-07-2009, 10:51 PM   #31
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Way to make it work!
Good job refitting the wire insulation after you modded the boot-I think that will be important for longevity.

R2
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:49 AM   #32
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I'm heading back out to the shop to complete my block heater install. With the local dealer shop rate at $84.00 an hour, I'm still working for decent wages, even though I wasted an hour or two before checking back here to see how others did it!

I removed the bracket that holds the shift linkage, but NOT the heavy cast iron bracket (secured from behind with 2 14mm bolts) that secures the shift cable housings themselves. I eventually figured out, even with the location of the yet invisible hole established, and the other extranuous stuff loosened and/or out of the way, there was no way to slide the heater in as the one shift cable thingie was too close, I could just barely start to insert it and then it'd hang up.

So, I first tried to slide the clip out that secures the shift cable closet to the engine, that would allow the cable (without removing the cast iron bracket that secures both cables) to slide up enough to be out of the way. Getting that sucker out, or even getting a grip on it, proved to be a tad of a pisser, getting it back in would also probably be a bear. Getting at the 14mm bolts at the rear of the cast iron bracket may or may not be a bit*h also but here goes. I'll say one thing for Toyota, they sure use good hardware, and FULLY torque them down, and use GREAT loctite!
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Old 10-30-2010, 06:56 PM   #33
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Well, I am done! And though my knuckles feel like I've been trying to pet a wolverine, it was worth it.

It took me a while to get it through my head the cast iron, black, bracket that holds the shift linkage cables in position MUST be removed (actually just unbolted, NOT taken out of the car). Others have already adequately described the other components needed to be loosened and/removed.

BTW, mine IS a 5 speed.

To get the cast iron bracket off FIRST remove the single 12 MM bolt that holds the light sheet metal bracket that supports the wiring loom, that makes getting at the 2 14 MM bolts that secure the iron bracket much easier.

The first 14 MM bolt I removed, on the right, or drivers side, wasn't too tough, I just played around until I got the right combination of socket extensions etc, pretty straightforward. The second one drove me crazy, I could get a Flex GearWrench on it, but only in a very awkward position allowing nowhere near enough torque to break it loose. To cut to the chase: I finally gave up, drove my backup Toyota car ('89 AllTrac) 20 miles to town and bought a Flex 3/8" drive (1/2" drive would work also) ratchet and then used a 12 pt. 14 MM socket. That was the subtle combination of tools that finally allowed me not only to get at the damn bolt, but also reef on it hard enough to break it loose! SIMPLE....now! My 1/2" breaker bar with a 5 sided socket didn't have the needed swing in the tight confines I was working in, the 12 sided socket and the flex head ratchet did, but still it was tight as in how many degrees of swing, but who cares at least I had it moving!

I can't believe it took me this long (61 yrs old, homebuilder, welder, airplane builder, renewable energy equipment seller/installer) and all around handy very mechanical guy but not strictly an automotive wrencher) to realize the benefits of a flex head ratchet! I have u-joint drives and lots of extentions in all sizes drives, non worked here.

So...do it yourself, ain't that hard ONCE you remove what HAS to be moved, have the right damn tools, and you FINALLY get that catridge type block heater to slip on into it's place, man that felt GOOD! Like others, I still have not laid eyes on the port it fits into. IF I had to do it again, knowing what I know now, I could do it in an hour max, this time Ha Ha, it took "more".
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Old 10-31-2010, 01:22 AM   #34
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Idahotom,

Well done, thanks for sharing your experiences.

Like you I felt like I was getting good at it when I was finished. I got to test the theory when a coworker asked me to install a block heater in his 07 sedan. Didn't take me long at all, but it was an auto so it was much simpler.
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:16 AM   #35
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what a way to bring the thread back to life, lol. i will prob be installing one some time mid november. i will let u know how it goes, i have a 5speed
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:14 AM   #36
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I have ordered the block heater for my 09 Yaris with automatic transmission. I have a timer which will allow me to turn the heater on in the morning before leaving for work at 5:20 AM.

I live in NJ where nighttime temperatures run from 15 degrees F to 30 degrees on a warm night. 15 is pretty cold and unusual but we had a lot of that last winter. I was getting less than 30 mpg driving the six miles to work. Which is 90% of the miles I put on the car.

First I have to drill a hole in the side of my house for the extension cord to run through!

The I have to find the great allmighty hole in the block. I take it the hole is pretty near the top of the engine?

Is battery removel going to help any?

How many hours of on time are people finding it good to set the timer for? 1?, 2?, 3?

What improvements in MPG are people getting? And under what conditions? Discuss at lenth if possible.

Thanks!
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