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Old 02-17-2017, 01:17 PM   #1
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Not Another Synthetic Oil Thread

Oh, but it is!

I've seen some forum signatures hint at the benefits of synthetic oil being all in the head. There are others that swear by synthetic.

I read a post on Wheelwell today where a gent linked to the following article:

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/truth...just-extra-hp/

The article offers some interesting information/numbers regarding increased mpg, bhp and reduced long-term wear when running AMSOIL synthetic.

Thought I'd share the read.
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:49 PM   #2
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I've switched. After my free oil changes were used up and 15,000 miles, I switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic 0w20. My Toyota advisor looks at me like I'm crazy but I want 1,000,000 miles on this thing so its worth it.
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:03 PM   #3
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Yea Mobil 1 Synthetic all the way I got 07 Hb I use 5-30 high miles specially in Walmart is 26 dollars 5qts

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Old 02-17-2017, 04:44 PM   #4
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I switched both my vehicles to syn oil for 2 reasons. The faster flowing ability in cold temp starts and because I can prolong the oci's. The cold start improvement will also help the longevity of the engines which is also important for me as I drive my cars as long as I can.

I don't go with a top grade syn like Amsoil or red line as I'm not tracking my car and it's pricey and unessessary for a dd imo. I run a grade lower (Mobil 1 0w30) and only purchase it on sale at my local ct for about $34 a jug.

My vibe gets Shell manufactured ct brand full syn 5w30 which is also not a premium grade syn oil but flows much better in the cold. Based on UOA's the Mobil 1 allows me to easily and safely go 15k km between oil changes. My vibe gets 10k km between them as I'm not running UOA's on that engine.

If I lived in a moderate climate and always got the engine up to operating temps then I'd likely just use dino oil for a dd. Where I live and how long I like to keep my cars, syn oil makes sense.

I'm curious as to what the cost of a top grade syn oil is per jug, what are people paying on this forum? When upstart doing autox I may switch depending on the UOI's and price
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Old 02-17-2017, 05:51 PM   #5
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Interesting responses.

For you guys that are far more capable with a wrench than I: if the benefits from AMSOIL synthetic are slim (judging by the numbers in the linked article), then wouldn't the benefits from something lesser, like Mobile 1, be basically insignificant?

I'm admittedly the farthest thing from an expert, but I came away from the article feeling like it's AMSOIL, or you might as well just run the regular stuff.
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Old 02-17-2017, 06:34 PM   #6
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Mobil 1 is far from a low quality oil, it's still up there it's just not what people run if you are tracking your car and need the absolute best.

It still is a full synthetic and has a better flow rate at temperature extremes. This will lead to improve protection at start up if you live in those climates.

Amsoil does more than improve duration of OCI's and better flow rates. From my understanding they add a lot of ingredients to improve oil stability and wear at high temps such as when racing.

This doesn't mean that Mobil 1 therefore does less simply because Amsoil does more. The issue is there are so many factors, variables and prameters that can be looked at. This leads to most articles or conversations comparing Apple's to oranges without realising it.

There is nothing wrong with a good dino oil and for most folks that is more than adequate for a fairly long life of an engine is moderate climates.

This doesn't mean that synthetics don't have a place or a benefit to a dd. There are just a tremendous amount of asinine claims made about syn oils over dino and many arn't sound. This is what many have issues with since some unknowing people hear these claims and then drop a lot more money for syn oil that does little for them.

My $0.02

Btw I should have my UOA in from Blackstone in a few days. It has 15,500km on it with no top up oil and it was the last one from my 1nz. It also will have a TBN so you guys can use that if you're thinking about running longer OCI's.
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Old 02-17-2017, 06:42 PM   #7
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I don't know anything about oil I just put mobile 1 because some old dude told me was the best plus is cold in here in Massachusetts🤣😆😆😆

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Old 02-17-2017, 07:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Mobil 1 is far from a low quality oil, it's still up there it's just not what people run if you are tracking your car and need the absolute best.

It still is a full synthetic and has a better flow rate at temperature extremes. This will lead to improve protection at start up if you live in those climates.

Amsoil does more than improve duration of OCI's and better flow rates. From my understanding they add a lot of ingredients to improve oil stability and wear at high temps such as when racing.

This doesn't mean that Mobil 1 therefore does less simply because Amsoil does more. The issue is there are so many factors, variables and prameters that can be looked at. This leads to most articles or conversations comparing Apple's to oranges without realising it.

There is nothing wrong with a good dino oil and for most folks that is more than adequate for a fairly long life of an engine is moderate climates.

This doesn't mean that synthetics don't have a place or a benefit to a dd. There are just a tremendous amount of asinine claims made about syn oils over dino and many arn't sound. This is what many have issues with since some unknowing people hear these claims and then drop a lot more money for syn oil that does little for them.

My $0.02
Makes sense to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaris874 View Post
I don't know anything about oil I just put mobile 1 because some old dude told me was the best plus is cold in here in Massachusetts🤣😆😆😆
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:01 PM   #9
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I use Walmart's SuperTech 5w-30 full synthetic, which is $17 for a 5-quart jug, or $5 more than their dino oil. Mobil 1 is $25. It seems to be a decent low-cost synthetic from everything I've read. My car is weekend driver/road-trip car. I'm sure it would be fine with dino oil, but an extra $5 for an oil-change-and-a-half worth of oil is worth it to me for synthetic.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchpaddy View Post
I use Walmart's SuperTech 5w-30 full synthetic, which is $17 for a 5-quart jug, or $5 more than their dino oil. Mobil 1 is $25. It seems to be a decent low-cost synthetic from everything I've read. My car is weekend driver/road-trip car. I'm sure it would be fine with dino oil, but an extra $5 for an oil-change-and-a-half worth of oil is worth it to me for synthetic.
I would agree with your thinking.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:33 PM   #11
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I haven't decided if I want to go synthetic or not after my last free Toyotacare service. My old Accord did 15 years and 200K without issue on regular oil.
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:21 AM   #12
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it doesn't matter as long as you use BG MOA. it's better than everything else you put in your black hole... (I do though only run synthetic, usually mobil 1 extended performance)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BefOciLdzig
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkOQgWNGM08
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Old 02-18-2017, 02:44 AM   #13
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here is a video of an engine running with a BG MOA coating internals with the oil pan dropped. runs great with 0 oil psi.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0ENyqqvZpk
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Old 02-18-2017, 03:12 AM   #14
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After the free ToyotaCare oil changes were used up I made the switch to synthetic too. I was able to buy a 5 quart jug of Walmart Supertech 5W-30 full synthetic for $12. Can't beat that, even cheaper than dino. It usually goes on sale at that price about once a year, that's the time to stock up. I plan on pushing the OCI to 7500 miles or one year, which ever comes first. Based on UOA I have seen at BITOG for Supertech synthetic 5W-30 and for the 1NZ-FE (but NOT the combination of the two) I feel that is a reasonable OCI. Yes it is a guess but it is a semi-educated guess. I don't expect any problems.
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Old 02-18-2017, 03:22 AM   #15
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As for AMSOIL, yes it is very good oil but it is insanely priced and distribution is an issue. You can't find it everywhere. Don't want to insult anybody but there also seems to be a cult-like mentality to those that use it.

Again great oil, but not worth the price in all but the most extreme situations. Of course if they would give it to me for free I would use it. LOL.
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:58 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC-SE View Post
As for AMSOIL, yes it is very good oil but it is insanely priced and distribution is an issue. You can't find it everywhere. Don't want to insult anybody but there also seems to be a cult-like mentality to those that use it.

Again great oil, but not worth the price in all but the most extreme situations. Of course if they would give it to me for free I would use it. LOL.
Free. LOL. How is distribution an issue? Get it from Amsoil website? In Canada, they are shipped to my door in 2 days.

Anyways, I'm only using I because it is actually cheaper than Royal Purple.

And I've been extending to once a year and 10000km

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Old 02-18-2017, 02:13 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
Oh, but it is!

I've seen some forum signatures hint at the benefits of synthetic oil being all in the head.

That would be me!

Heres why I think that.

Increased mpg? I drove 5200 miles from NJ to AK on regular oil, changed the oil in the Walmart parking lot in Fairbanks with Mobil 1, turned around and drove 5200 miles back to NJ. I kept track of the gallons used each way and...burned slightly MORE gas coming home.

So much for increased mpg with synthetic.

As for the engine lasting longer with synthetic oil. First of all, if you sell the car before its scrap youre just wasting money using synthetic oil. Im 60 now and only drove one car to destruction a 1974 VW Beetle. It had 250,000 miles on it and was totally rusted out in the floorpan making it completely unsafe. I rebuilt the engine at 125,000 miles and all it really needed was a valve job and pistons and cylinders. The crank, rod, and cam bearings and journals were all within spec. In fact they were STILL in spec at 250,000 miles!

I put the crank,rods, cam and various other engine parts in a 1971 Bus and put another 30,000 miles on it before I sold it.

Now....the VW engines had 2.5 quarts of oil in them, were aircooled which is harder on engine parts, and had NO OIL FILTER, just a removable screen. I did change the oil every 1500 miles...

I see some new Toyota engines call for synthetic oil. I guess they got you there. Also, synthetic oil in my experience flows better and starts the engine easier at temps below say 10 degrees F.

But practically the rest of the car will be falling apart and just uneconomical to maintain long before the engine block grenades using just regular oil.
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Old 02-18-2017, 02:22 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by NYC-SE View Post
After the free ToyotaCare oil changes were used up I made the switch to synthetic too. I was able to buy a 5 quart jug of Walmart Supertech 5W-30 full synthetic for $12. Can't beat that, even cheaper than dino. It usually goes on sale at that price about once a year, that's the time to stock up. I plan on pushing the OCI to 7500 miles or one year, which ever comes first. Based on UOA I have seen at BITOG for Supertech synthetic 5W-30 and for the 1NZ-FE (but NOT the combination of the two) I feel that is a reasonable OCI. Yes it is a guess but it is a semi-educated guess. I don't expect any problems.
Thats cheap but ACE Hardware sells their regular oil for $2 a quart once a year too.

Lets post when they have the sale!

I just might go for the Supertech!
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