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Old 02-23-2012, 07:17 PM   #37
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okay so ive given up on trying to chase the p0335 code, it has yet to happen again so probably just a glitch.

now to tuning....... ugh, lol what a PIA this is. im not looking for max preformance, im looking for safe engine. currently i believe my issue starts with the injector change. i was under the impression 1zz injectors are 220cc and 1zn injectors are 190cc. are these numbers correct or are they throwing me off?
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:03 PM   #38
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okay so ive given up on trying to chase the p0335 code, it has yet to happen again so probably just a glitch.

now to tuning....... ugh, lol what a PIA this is. im not looking for max preformance, im looking for safe engine. currently i believe my issue starts with the injector change. i was under the impression 1zz injectors are 220cc and 1zn injectors are 190cc. are these numbers correct or are they throwing me off?
My advice to you, rescale injectors... And get it to the dyno for somebody to tune it. It is impossible to tune a car properly on the street. Just yesterday we got a 102whp gain over a street tune at the same boost ( just an example) on an evo.
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:32 PM   #39
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UPDATE:

hey guys, sorry for the long wait since last update. boosted life is busy with all the laid im getting :D lol

for all those who said it cant be done, im street tuned with NO CEL code and Closed-Loop

so im still running with a street tune, planning to get properly tuned by mid summer as by then hopefully ill be done school and in a full time job. im not overly concerned with my tune, its getting great AFR's, slightly rich but id rather for a safe street tune. (~11.9WOT, 12.3-13.9 accel, 14.5-15.1 Cruze/idle)

currently my turbo is at 9psi and i dont plan on touching it, i havent had any issues thus far, but the new 2.5inch exhaust scrapes on everything! lol. i definatly feel a 300HP gain and im planning to get a turbo sticker so i should be well above the 350streetHP (on a serious note i feel a easy 50HP gain)

i get a bit of turbo flutter sometimes but not sure why..... any help? my system is BOV and MAF in stock location. i think it might be because i got sucked into a fake HKS SSQS valve, so im hopeing that could be it.

one thing that really worries me is my fuel efficiency (mpgs or L/100km).... its gone up.....alot......i mean my average l/100km is about 6.2l/100km, which is really good for my style of driving.


something else i have been pondering is how to know if i need to use 91 octane or if i can get away with using 89 or even 87 for everyday commuting? im afraid to get stuck with a tank of 89 and not being able to drive it. any ideas with this or even what i should listen for when testing it out would be great.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:15 PM   #40
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congrats. A professional tune will clean up your map and might net you a little more power for the same boost.

I would only run 91 at 9psi on that motor. I suppose in a pinch you could try and keep it out of boost with 87 or 89, but I would do that sparingly. My .02
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:00 PM   #41
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garm, thx for the $0.0196 (sorry for the exchange rate), that has been the general advice but no one can tell me exactly why that is.

i was speaking to a mechanic and he believed 89 or even 87 could be used with some retarding of the timing. he seems to believe since the car was designed to run on 87 and all the sensors are still being used (like i said above i was able to run in closed loop) the computer will adjust to use any type of fuel (87-96) u put in (and any ambient temp and PSIA). also with my tune i have not altered the MAF map, just clamped it a 4.5v, ive altered the ignition, fuel, and o2 only.

according to my buddy, if the computer see's something wrong, it will adjust for it and seeing as im not hiding boost from the computer it should adjust for it. now seeing as he works on chryslers and not toyota's and he doesnt deal with aftermarket installs im aware he doesnt know exactly whats going on but i do see his point of view.

is this plausable circumstance? or is it way out there? im hesitant to use 89 cuz i dont want to grenade my motor but at the same time lets try to save money where we can.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:17 AM   #42
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for peace of mind just use the premium fuel. This is just a cost of being turboed. BE safe than sorry its just a few cents more really. If u can afford to turbo you car you can afford premium fuel.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:46 AM   #43
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Quote:
that has been the general advice but no one can tell me exactly why that is.
That is because on a dyno there are controlled conditions under which the car can be tuned. Can't be said much clearer than that.

Quote:
he seems to believe since the car was designed to run on 87 and all the sensors are still being used (like i said above i was able to run in closed loop) the computer will adjust to use any type of fuel (87-96) u put in
Ask him how he knows for sure that it will not start to detonate at 87. If it doesn't, great, you don't need 91. If it does, for long enough, you'll be buying a motor. Ask him if he'll cover that cost if he's wrong.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:47 AM   #44
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p.s. LOL about about the exchange rate.
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:51 AM   #45
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That is because on a dyno there are controlled conditions under which the car can be tuned. Can't be said much clearer than that.
sorry garm, i missed this or how it solves the mystery of needed 91 octane on the street

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Ask him how he knows for sure that it will not start to detonate at 87. If it doesn't, great, you don't need 91. If it does, for long enough, you'll be buying a motor. Ask him if he'll cover that cost if he's wrong.
i agree with this, if he could show me some type of equation that proves 87 would be fine then this would have been a discovery post vs a inquiry post. ive been looking into this a bit and found people delaying timing to fix issues when going from 93 octane to 89 octane.

what my friend was saying made sense to me, but i quite easy to convince.....good thing im not female....or too bad more females arnt like me..... back on topic, he basically was saying since im not hiding boost from my ecu, it will adjust for it, if it senses a knock it will adjust for it. i trust his opinion but really this fourm has the best of the best when it comes to specific questions like this.


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p.s. LOL about about the exchange rate.
lol, im glad u found it funny, i was worried it could be taken as a "snarky" comment, lol
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:15 AM   #46
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If you really want to run 89 then get your engine tuned for it. Don't rely on the stock ecu to correct timing. The stock knock sensor is not all that good and not something I would trust when under any boost to control timing. Your talking about using a limited reactive system to correct timing with low octane gas while in boost. Bad idea. Too much timing retard can also be a bad thing for your motor and can lead to burnt valves. What ever fuel you want to use just be sure to get tuned for it. The Aem fic allows you to make two different maps.
You will have to turn down the boost to run low octane gas. Or just stay out of any high boost.
But really you need to be running premium. You never kno while driving on the road where you might need to suddenly accelerate to avoid a crash or something. That one time is all it takes for you to blow your motor. It can be done just not wise. If you love your car give it the best you can and premium fuel is not too much to ask. Good luck M8.

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Old 03-26-2012, 12:10 PM   #47
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^ Best answer.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris
That is because on a dyno there are controlled conditions under which the car can be tuned. Can't be said much clearer than that.
Quote:
sorry garm, i missed this or how it solves the mystery of needed 91 octane on the street
This had nothing to do with that. You said you didn't understand why dyno tuning was needed vs. street tuning.

Quote:
if he could show me some type of equation that proves 87 would be fine
That's impossible. It detonates when it detonates. You are talking about a dynamic, complex system, that you have modified beyond its designed intent. This is why tuning is an art, using technoology, and experience, and ears and eyes. It's also a further explanation of why it's best to tune on the dyno.
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:11 PM   #48
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If you really want to run 89 then get your engine tuned for it. Don't rely on the stock ecu to correct timing. The stock knock sensor is not all that good and not something I would trust when under any boost to control timing. Your talking about using a limited reactive system to correct timing with low octane gas while in boost. Bad idea. Too much timing retard can also be a bad thing for your motor and can lead to burnt valves. What ever fuel you want to use just be sure to get tuned for it. The Aem fic allows you to make two different maps.
You will have to turn down the boost to run low octane gas. Or just stay out of any high boost.
But really you need to be running premium. You never kno while driving on the road where you might need to suddenly accelerate to avoid a crash or something. That one time is all it takes for you to blow your motor. It can be done just not wise. If you love your car give it the best you can and premium fuel is not too much to ask. Good luck M8.

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^this is a very good answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
^ Best answer.






This had nothing to do with that. You said you didn't understand why dyno tuning was needed vs. street tuning.



That's impossible. It detonates when it detonates. You are talking about a dynamic, complex system, that you have modified beyond its designed intent. This is why tuning is an art, using technoology, and experience, and ears and eyes. It's also a further explanation of why it's best to tune on the dyno.
oh, sorry i missunderstood the contex of it. i strongly believe everyone should be dyno tuned, its by far the best and complete way to tune. seeing all the maps involved and measurements and readings i completely agree that dyno is the way to go. once funds come in i will definatly be getting a professional tune.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:40 PM   #49
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And just to be really clear, we street tuned my car as well before our dyno sessions. You can get pretty close with that method - especially with two people in the car!
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:29 PM   #50
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New update:

Ran into another issue, it seemed to happen very randomly but I could smell raw fuel in the cabin, thought it may have been random sections of super rich tune. Today I checked injectors and they appeared to be leaking slightly around the top and bottom o-rings. And on 2 injectors the bottom o-rings appeared to look different the other 2.... 3 hours or work, about 5 liters of fuel all over my garage and driveway, removing the injectors about 5 times and a trip to local junk yard the bottom o-rings were replaced.

I recommend to anyone removing fuel rail, when u put it back on double check the bottom injector gasket is properly in place. My was sitting half in the hole and half ontop, which caused a leak and allowed the fuel injector to wiggle and oblong the gasket hole.

Only issues I had to direct me towards the injector issue was raw fuel smell and a second or 2 extra starting crank time which I just thought was because of the turbo. Fixing the injectors stopped the fuel smell but my tune is off again (I need to tweek the tune) and now my car takes forever to start! It made it worse, hopefully retuning will fix this. Ill update tomorrow if tuning did fix this.

Anyone have some loose change and experience on this issue?
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:52 PM   #51
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Damn man the price of being boosted. GL
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:40 PM   #52
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price of being boosted, being escorted off the highway cuz the car made a loud noise and gave up...... 9psi@140km/h passing in the left lane and she died

a shit ton of questions from a curious officer later and 6bucks worth of batteries for my flashlight and asking a truck driver to borrow a wrench i put the intake pipe back on the TB :D


next time i get a chance to sit with my car, remove bumper and make sure all the I/C piping clamps are very very tight :)
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:04 PM   #53
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price of being boosted, being escorted off the highway cuz the car made a loud noise and gave up...... 9psi@140km/h passing in the left lane and she died

a shit ton of questions from a curious officer later and 6bucks worth of batteries for my flashlight and asking a truck driver to borrow a wrench i put the intake pipe back on the TB :D


next time i get a chance to sit with my car, remove bumper and make sure all the I/C piping clamps are very very tight :)
This has happened to me many a times lol.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:27 PM   #54
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scared the PISS outta me, lol. to make it worse due to traffic reasons i was forced to bail out on the left shoulder. luckly there was a officer about 2 mins behind me, and he said if i could get it moving he would escort me off the road
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