Transmission Fluid - My car is ruined - help

[Hard_Yaris]

I've driven my 2005 toyota Echo 190,000KM with noproblems and I've owned it since its birth... it Met a Curb @ 70KM/h and was destroyed in 2009.

Also, I was told that My 2008 Yaris has Gear Oil 75-90. I was going to replace it with the synthetic AMSoil Gear Oil 75-90 and im sure its a GL-4... is that OK?

[Hershey]

yes , GL-4 is fine .

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by Lazerdot

My owners manual said GL-5. Plus since I run it hard some times, seemed like a good idea. So far its working real good.

Seems like mine said GL-4/GL-5, or maybe that was Mitchell1?...

GL-5 is better suited for differentials, GL-4 is specifically designed for the softer metals in transmission and transaxles. Link below...

Amsoil's Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4: Specifically formulated for the most demanding manual transmission and transaxle applications

[robkay]

Chattersking, let me tell you a story that might make you at least feel a little better.

When I was first married, many years ago, my new wife called me from her parents home one day. She said it was a nice summer day and she was bored and wanted something to do. She knew the car was due for an oil change and asked if it was OK for her to do it. I said NO, I would take care of it myself at a later time. But, she begged me and reminded me that she had taken a Powder Puff Car Maintenance course in high school (a car maintenance class for girls) and that she knew exactly how to do it. Reluctantly, I said "OK, go ahead."

An hour later she proudly called me to tell me that she was all done, but was surprised at how hard it was to pour the motor oil into that metal tube and that she had to borrow a funnel from her father to get the oil into that tube.

I said, "What metal tube????" She said, "The one that has the dip stick in it."

I said, "You didn't remove the round cap on top of the engine that says, 'OIL'?"

There was a long pause, and then, "No. I took out the dip stick on the side of the engine and poured it down the tube. Did I not do it right?"

I said, "No. You just poured 4 quarts of motor oil into the transmission!"

I was freaked just as you were.

Fortunately, there was a good shop not far away and the mechanic said, "Don't worry. Just have her put oil in the engine and run it down here. We'll flush and refill the transmission and you will be fine." That was many years ago and at that time a flush was only about $80, but that was still the most expensive oil change I've ever had in my life! We've been married 33 years now and I've made sure she has not lived that one down!!

[Doc Zaius]

^^^ But the dipstick tube is for measuring the engine oil level... not transmission fluid..? Sound like she just added an extra 4 quarts to the engine oil already in there. Which isn't great either b/c the crank would churn it and get bubbles and etc. Your tranny should've been fine.

[robkay]

Nope--33 years ago, Doc. Different technology. Rear wheel drive. That was how you added tranny fluid in those days. You removed the dipstick from a tube that went down to the transmission (not transaxle) and used a long, skinny funnel that fit into the tube. You would add a little fluid, stick the dipstick back in and check it, stick the funnel back in and add a little more, check it again. Fun times.

[Doc Zaius]

Huh! Well how about that! I stand corrected, sir!

[robkay]

Originally Posted by Doc Zaius

Huh! Well how about that! I stand corrected, sir!

Yep...so did the wife!

[Hershey]

we had similar issue with a '93 FORD Festiva ( Mazdz 121 ) with 5 speed manual . Took it to dealer service center to get tranny fluid changed . Come to find out they dumped gear oil in it instead of A.T.F. fluid that it called for ( MERCON ? , long time ago to remember ) . They must of assumed that it being a manual tranny that it took gear oil . Took it back and they wouldn't change it back to A.T.F. for free . So , left and did the next 2 changes myself . The car did fine after that . Well until it was rear ended while waiting at red light during a wet snowfall . Since that I always check fluids and level after any service is done .

[N9QGS]

You know what is really sad... Okay so you guys got my hopes up of going to Toyota and getting a complete flush just to be on the safe side... They wont do it, they said it never requires servicing and just to check level at 100,000. And then they got paranoid saying their flush machine is not set up for World Standard fluid and id hate to mix the fluids together. (meaning there would be cross contamination with the fluid the machine is normally being used with), so it sounds like this would be a problem anywhere than to get it flushed. Seriously what am I dealing with here?

UPDATE AGAIN: Toyota referred me to a technical service bulletin stating, and these are the exact words: 100,000 Maintenance Interval — Inspection only; ATF-WS does NOT require any flushing or changing during the life of the vehicle.

This is why Toyota dealerships wont touch my car, they said I should be just fine with what I've been doing. Now you may say go find an independent shop, question is what about cross contamination of and fluids that are already still in their machine if I brought them 15 to 20 qts of ATF-WS, this was a concern to Toyota while they were pondering if they would even consider attempting to do it for me.

[N9QGS]

Okay I think I have my answer, but I will need you guys to verify's this all applies to a Yaris. Im reading to do this yourself (exchange much of the fluid), drain pain of fluid, and refill. Locate and disconnect the transmission return line, and put clear tubing on it to a drain container. Start the car, and put in drive with emergency brake, and you will get the flow of transmission fluid in the convertor and all that draining out and it says to do this process until you see a change in the color of the liquid, then shut engine off, reconnect transmission return line, top fluid, and road test and recheck level. If this is what you recommend I do vs trying to worry about Toyota comments, if its really this easy, Im doing it this weekend. hahah

Anyone know what tool I made need and how to properly identfy where Im disconnecting this transmission line? and what size clear tubing will fit this best? also will I need to keep filling the transmission up during this process (reason I ask draining pan, is putting about 2 to 3 qts of fresh fluid in, if i'm pumping out 10 to 15 qts of old fluid, im gonna run out somewhere, and i dont know if running out while the car is in drive is a good idea)

thanks.. Ron

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by N9QGS

Okay I think I have my answer, but I will need you guys to verify's this all applies to a Yaris. Im reading to do this yourself (exchange much of the fluid), drain pain of fluid, and refill. Locate and disconnect the transmission return line, and put clear tubing on it to a drain container. Start the car, and put in drive with emergency brake, and you will get the flow of transmission fluid in the convertor and all that draining out and it says to do this process until you see a change in the color of the liquid, then shut engine off, reconnect transmission return line, top fluid, and road test and recheck level. If this is what you recommend I do vs trying to worry about Toyota comments, if its really this easy, Im doing it this weekend. hahah

Anyone know what tool I made need and how to properly identfy where Im disconnecting this transmission line? and what size clear tubing will fit this best? also will I need to keep filling the transmission up during this process (reason I ask draining pan, is putting about 2 to 3 qts of fresh fluid in, if i'm pumping out 10 to 15 qts of old fluid, im gonna run out somewhere, and i dont know if running out while the car is in drive is a good idea)

thanks.. Ron

You might F it all up....just take it to a dealership or reputable garage and let them use their high tech machine to do this job....and use the Toyota fluid too! I would advise against doing this yourself....Gosh, for $75-$120 bucks just let the pros do it fast, quick and right. They have the tools and knowhow you don't. As to oil changes and other types of maintenence, you can do those yourself because they are much easier and less envasive. If your Toy dealership refuses to flush/drain/refill, then there are others that will do it....mine in So Cal will, and others will too.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by N9QGS

Okay I think I have my answer, but I will need you guys to verify's this all applies to a Yaris. Im reading to do this yourself (exchange much of the fluid), drain pain of fluid, and refill. Locate and disconnect the transmission return line, and put clear tubing on it to a drain container. Start the car, and put in drive with emergency brake, and you will get the flow of transmission fluid in the convertor and all that draining out and it says to do this process until you see a change in the color of the liquid, then shut engine off, reconnect transmission return line, top fluid, and road test and recheck level. If this is what you recommend I do vs trying to worry about Toyota comments, if its really this easy, Im doing it this weekend. hahah

Anyone know what tool I made need and how to properly identfy where Im disconnecting this transmission line? and what size clear tubing will fit this best? also will I need to keep filling the transmission up during this process (reason I ask draining pan, is putting about 2 to 3 qts of fresh fluid in, if i'm pumping out 10 to 15 qts of old fluid, im gonna run out somewhere, and i dont know if running out while the car is in drive is a good idea)

thanks.. Ron

I have been running Napa Dexron VI ATF in Crashy. Her AT was 3 quarts low, since her left front axle was yanked loose during her accident (and as I found out putting her in gear before fully reseating that axle - tranny fluid will gush out when put in gear with the axle not seated). The day I wanted to fire her up Toyota was already closed, so I hit my local NAPA, who of course didn't have Toyota ATF WS. I checked out the MSDS for Dexron VI and it the composition and specs seemed to match those of the ATF WS MSDS, so that's what I went with.

The Automatic Transmission section of the service manual (posted in the DIY section of the Forum) shows the location and function (in/out) of the transmission cooler lines.

Here's Amsoil's procedure for DIY flushing an AT:

Follow these additional 5 steps for complete
transmission pan and torque converter fluid replacement.
1) Obtain the total transmission fluid capacity
from the manufacturer or AMSOIL
and have that amount of transmission
fluid available.
2) Place a drain pan large enough to hold the
total fluid capacity under the oil cooler.
Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the
oil cooler and direct the lines toward the
drain pan.
3) With another person, be prepared to add
ATF to the transmission fill hole (dipstick
hole) at the approximate rate as the fluid
is being pumped out the transmission line
into the drain pan.
4) Start the engine, and as the old fluid is
pumped out, add fresh fluid into the
transmission fill hole.
5) When either the fluid color brightens or
the total capacity has been replaced, shut
the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler
lines. All fluid in the transmission pan
and torque converter has now been
changed.


With the vehicle on level ground recheck the
fluid level using the manufacturer procedures outlined
in the owners manual. Check the transmission
and lines for leaks.

[jekqmb]

Wow should have went and had a fluid exchange, most ATF fluids these days are compatible with the yaris... Best fluid I think is maxatf from Valvoline.

[jekqmb]

Doing a drain and fill does not get particles out of the tranny as well and can cause even more build up, get a fluid exchange.... No pressure on the tranny and gets alot of old nasty debris out. I'm an ASE certified tech, i do not like doing drain and fills....I always suggest an exchange in an AT. Drain and fills were okay back in the day when filters were changed out...

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by jekqmb

Doing a drain and fill does not get particles out of the tranny as well and can cause even more build up, get a fluid exchange.... No pressure on the tranny and gets alot of old nasty debris out. I'm an ASE certified tech, i do not like doing drain and fills....I always suggest an exchange in an AT. Drain and fills were okay back in the day when filters were changed out...

Are you sure about that? I've seen several transmissions ruined by 100k because they did a couple of flushes. When I pulled the pans, filters were clogged...transmission was spic-n-span, but filters were trash, probably because mechanic wanted to keep his hands clean. Maybe the flush machines have better features now, these occurrences happened about 5 yrs back. Filters are still sold and changed out and still serve the same purpose they always have, just takes more time and uniforms and hands can get dirty during the process. btw, ASE certified grease-monkey here...A1, A5, A6 and A7 ;)

[auxmike]

I changed the fluid in a 1995 Saturn once, they used a spin on oil filter! There was even a doughnut shaped magnet on the tranny to catch metal debris.
BTW, in the Saturn owner's manual it tells you HOW to do the procedure yourself.
No mention of flushing out the trannny either.
Also, I've heard that the dirt build up in an older tranny may actually seal up leaks and flushing the tranny could actually create leaks.
Is there even a changable filter in the Yaris A/T?

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by auxmike

I changed the fluid in a 1995 Saturn once, they used a spin on oil filter! There was even a doughnut shaped magnet on the tranny to catch metal debris.
BTW, in the Saturn owner's manual it tells you HOW to do the procedure yourself.
No mention of flushing out the trannny either.
Also, I've heard that the dirt build up in an older tranny may actually seal up leaks and flushing the tranny could actually create leaks.
Is there even a changable filter in the Yaris A/T?

Apparently so. A quick check showed PNs from Fram & Wix