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Old 07-04-2015, 07:56 PM   #1
davislau
 
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Base Sedan
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Location: Des Moines, Iowa
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Unhappy Need help troubleshooting air conditioning

I have a base model 2007, 5-speed Toyota Yaris. Air conditioning was working fine, but one day I got in the car and no cold air. Blower is working, and A/C light comes on.

What I've done so far:
- Tried recharging the system with refrigerant. But the gauge read over 100 psi (> 700 kPa). This is very high, and each time I squeezed the trigger, the pressure went down slightly. I don't know how it can be overcharged because the system hasn't been touched in many years and has been working fine. Does this mean refrigerant is accumulating high pressure in the low side of my system?
- Looked at the sight glass near high pressure port and saw no bubbles. Condition: All doors open, held engine at 1500 rpm, max blower speed, max cool A/C temp.
- Measured low port pressure with engine off. Still read the same high (> 100 psi, 700 kPa) pressure
- With the car at idle, turned on A/C, and turned blower speed higher and higher. Engine speed dropped with each step in blower speed. At max blower speed, engine is shuddering slightly under the load at less than normal rpm. (Usually, my rpm rises when A/C is turned on and you hear a loud fan-like noise from outside. Neither of these happened.
- A/C compressor does appear to be engaged as the disk next to the pulley is spinning. It didn't look like it was disengaged when the A/C was off though. But the engine idle is normal when the A/C is shut off so maybe it is disengaged?
- One day the A/C worked for a few minutes blowing cold air, but stopped working again.
- Felt the input and output refrigerant lines to the compressor. Felt no noticeable difference in temperature.
- No condensation or frost saw on any of the lines.
- Measured resistance between terminals of connector coming out of compressor to be 12 ohms at 70 F. It's supposed to be 10.1 - 11.1 ohms at 77 F
- Checked 3 fuses in engine bay. They were all good.
I'm at a lost now as to what to do. Don't really want to take it to a mechanic if I can help it. Does anyone know what else I can do to diagnose the problem? I still have no idea what it is. I suspect the compressor is bad, but I'm not certain.

Thanks a lot!

Last edited by davislau; 07-06-2015 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:26 PM   #2
CTScott
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The pressure sensor for the AC ECU is on the high side, and if you have >100 psi on the low side, the high side is likely over the limit where the AC ECU will allow the compressor to run. Those refill kits can be dangerous (even the ones with a gauge) as they only allow you to see what is going on on the low pressure side. A proper gauge set allows you to watch both sides.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:08 PM   #3
davislau
 
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Base Sedan
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Thanks for the reply CTScott. I don't have a proper gauge set. What do you think my next step is? Is my only option to take it to a mechanic?
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:18 PM   #4
CTScott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davislau View Post
Thanks for the reply CTScott. I don't have a proper gauge set. What do you think my next step is? Is my only option to take it to a mechanic?
That or buy a gauge set from Harbor Freight for $35.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:50 AM   #5
esse10
 
Drives: 2009 yaris 2 door
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A/C system

I just finished replacing the complete system in my vw new beetle and that system had a bad compressor, the low was too high and the high was too low. ctscott is correct you need to put both gauges to see what the system is doing, the high and low side . My guess is your compressor is shot ; if your low side stays high and the high side stays low while the compressor is engaged and the radiator fan is spinning then your compressor is bad. Also at this point it seems you might have over charged the system and so you put in another variable in the mix.
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Old 07-13-2015, 05:30 PM   #6
davislau
 
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Base Sedan
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I doubt I overcharged the system because I only squeezed the trigger for a split second to get a pressure reading. Then, when I held the trigger down, the pressure either remained constant or dropped slightly. I think the pressure in the can was not high enough to overcome the pressure built up on the low side of the system.

I finally paid a mechanic $40 to diagnose and they said the compressor was bad.
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:22 AM   #7
dragoonmc
 
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It's possible that the connector between the flywheel on the compressor and the rest of the compressor broke and that it simply isn't spinning the compressor at all. No way to fix that really as it's very thin casting I think
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Old 07-15-2015, 10:54 AM   #8
esse10
 
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Hello

Quote:
Originally Posted by davislau View Post
I doubt I overcharged the system because I only squeezed the trigger for a split second to get a pressure reading. Then, when I held the trigger down, the pressure either remained constant or dropped slightly. I think the pressure in the can was not high enough to overcome the pressure built up on the low side of the system.

I finally paid a mechanic $40 to diagnose and they said the compressor was bad.
HELLO, Does that sound familiar? From what I read it sounded to me like the compressor was bad. If he (mechanic) comes back and wants to replace drier or accumulator, expansion valve or orifice tube go ahead and do that which is normally done when a new compressor is replaced.
glad u found the problem,

one more thing; recommend don't buy your parts off the internet or you might end up doing a wild goose chase like I did when they sold me defective parts then had to do the whole thing all over again. uuurrgg
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