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Old 12-10-2014, 09:47 PM   #1
roc
 
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Exclamation help needed - 06' Yaris YR power loss on freeway

Hello,

I bought this 2006 yaris YR 3-door hatch with 143,000 kms on the odometer last week from a used car dealership and I am having some annoying power issues

During test drive everything was fine, but then right after I have paid for the car and was driving back home on the freeway doing about 90 km/h, the engine started shaking, car started to lose power and could not go anything faster than 30 km/h. None of the warning lights lit up on the dashboard when this happened.

I pulled over and immediately called the dealer about the issue, and he told me it was because of bad fuel clogging the fuel filter. He asked me to switch off the engine and wait for half an hour for the impurities to settle which I did, and the car started going again and could do about 60 km/h, but the engine was still chugging when the car was idling, as if it would die in any second.

Car was low on fuel so I pumped premium fuel into the tank and slowly made my way to a mechanic who is a friend of mine. He did a check for me and measured low fuel pressure. Thanks to statutory warranty, I took the car back to the dealership and had him replace the fuel filter and fuel pump for me, but then the same thing happened again on the freeway and this time I could smell something burnt in the engine after I opened the hood.

TL;DR, to summarize:
- Car was fine before going onto freeway;
- Car starts to lose power after doing about 90 km/h on the freeway for a while;
- After power loss, car could not go anything above 30 km/h even if I floor the pedal;
- Car started going again after I turned off the engine and waited for half an hour;
- Engine was shaking and chugging when car was idling as if it was going to die in any second;
- Quick check shows low fuel pressure;
- Replaced fuel filter and fuel pump but problem persists;
- Burnt smell from engine after I opened the hood.

What else could be the cause of all this other than fuel pump and fuel filter? Thank you very much in advance for any insight that can be provided on this matter!
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:01 PM   #2
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The burnt smell under the hood would concern me. That should definitely be checked.

Also, I would have your mechanic plug in a diagnostic tool to make sure there aren't codes stored and someone disabled the indicator light.
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:02 PM   #3
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Pluged catalytic converter would be my guess
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:08 PM   #4
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Also if that is the case it maybe under emissions warranty think its up to 160k on Toyota .
Failer may have been coused by bad fuel or plugs having unburned fuel to overheat the converter .
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:58 PM   #5
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thank you so much for the replies! The car is with the dealer's mechanic now, I will make sure he checks the catalytic converter and runs a OBD scan, and all the other possible causes ..

My own mechanic also told me it may be a electric problem which can be very expensive to fix ... will update you guys if there's any progress
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:45 AM   #6
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I'd be asking for my money back.
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Old 12-11-2014, 05:26 PM   #7
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I'd be asking for my money back.
Exactly and I would like to do that too, but by law I have to give the dealership an opportunity to try and fix the vehicle first, to prove the problem is a "major problem" that cannot be fixed within a reasonable time
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Old 12-11-2014, 08:48 PM   #8
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I'd say them replacing the fuel pump and it doing the same thing is cause enough.
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Old 12-12-2014, 01:49 PM   #9
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Same happened to me once but it was a faulty ignition coil, however, it did gave me a check engine and the engine stopped.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:29 AM   #10
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Update: Dealer tested the car himself and ran into the same issue, this time with a check engine signal. Mechanic ran a scan and found an issue with the air flow meter .. they are still testing the car for now
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Old 12-14-2014, 02:01 PM   #11
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When I modified my stock air box I didn't properly connect MAF sensor back when reinstalling. About 20km into driving it must have popped off partially. Car would drastically lose power when slowing off throttle and then chug really hard and die. It would start normally and ten 10seconds in do the same thing. Reconnected MAF and issue was gone.

I don't remember the code it threw bit it would have been your typical MAF code. It is possible that it may be a faulty MAF? Hopefully they can figure it out
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Old 01-09-2015, 12:24 AM   #12
roc
 
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Angry

Update: Finally I have a working car!

Dealership ended up replacing, in chronological order, fuel pump and filter, air flow meter, coil pack, gear box, engine and ECU and finally the power loss problem is gone. Not exactly sure which component caused the issue but most likely it is the gear box. Also unsure how I am gonna explain all this to future buyers when I am selling this car ...

But now I end up having two different sets of keys! The 2 old keys (plain keys attached to a plastic fob) open car doors but cannot start the car, and the new key (with a keyless entry remote) starts the engine but does not open car doors.

Does that mean I have to change the car door locks (!) or is there anything else I can try?
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Old 01-09-2015, 03:42 AM   #13
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they replaced the gearbox and engine!?!?
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:22 AM   #14
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Looks like they also replaced the ignition switch.
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:34 AM   #15
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wow. other then the double key issue that's not a bad deal for you, new engine!

just keep the ignition key in a hidden spot in your car and walk around with the door lock key. Just make sure your doors are locked and that way you don't have the hassle of always lugging around 2 keys
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:28 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
wow. other then the double key issue that's not a bad deal for you, new engine!

just keep the ignition key in a hidden spot in your car and walk around with the door lock key. Just make sure your doors are locked and that way you don't have the hassle of always lugging around 2 keys

Don't be lazy. It's just a key. And op have keyless entry. Just keep both keys on you.
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Old 01-09-2015, 12:24 PM   #17
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LOL, just like in the olden days, when I had a key for the ignition, another one for the doors and trunk and another one for the filler cap.
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