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Old 12-06-2018, 06:47 PM   #109
atomic_hoji
 
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For reference / interest, this is the setup I used to the clean the injectors. Installed a piece of tygon hose onto the injector at one end, sprayed carb cleaner fluid into the tygon, then put an air attachment on the other end. Secured with hose clamps. It uses the air to pressurize the setup to 10-15 psi; fuel pressure is ~50psi or so, so no issue for injector, but I didn't trust the hose clamps to go too high.. lol

To fire the injectors I had a couple of wires attached to my 12V powersports battery from my ATV for power (not shown). While I held the injector assembly, I had my wife hold the negative on one terminal and rapidly tap the positive on the other terminal. Did this until the injector was clear of fluid. Carb cleaner stinks - do this in a well ventilated area!

Spray patterns looked decent when we were doing it; because of the tip installed on the injector there are two distinct injection sprays - one to each intake port.

-- Adam

inj_clean_setup.jpg
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Old 12-06-2018, 06:53 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
I’d still say that -20% is still going to eventually result in a rich condition fault. Let’s see how it goes though, I’m inexperienced with the valvematic fuel mapping
Without looking it up, I believe you're right - beyond +/- 15% LTFT rings a bell for being considered abnormal. I'll see how these changes work and if it brings the LTFT value down further having a proper airflow straightener installed vs. door screen. Still waiting on my OEM MAF to arrive too. Fingers crossed.

I does sit in the back of my mind whether or not using a regular VVTi would have caused the same issues and/or been easier to troubleshoot. There really isn't a ton of information out there on Valvematic even though it's been around for a while. But, now I know for next time..

-- Adam
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Old 12-06-2018, 09:23 PM   #111
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Home cleaning of injectors = very cool.
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Old 12-07-2018, 07:37 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
For reference / interest, this is the setup I used to the clean the injectors. Installed a piece of tygon hose onto the injector at one end, sprayed carb cleaner fluid into the tygon, then put an air attachment on the other end. Secured with hose clamps. It uses the air to pressurize the setup to 10-15 psi; fuel pressure is ~50psi or so, so no issue for injector, but I didn't trust the hose clamps to go too high.. lol

To fire the injectors I had a couple of wires attached to my 12V powersports battery from my ATV for power (not shown). While I held the injector assembly, I had my wife hold the negative on one terminal and rapidly tap the positive on the other terminal. Did this until the injector was clear of fluid. Carb cleaner stinks - do this in a well ventilated area!

Spray patterns looked decent when we were doing it; because of the tip installed on the injector there are two distinct injection sprays - one to each intake port.

-- Adam

Attachment 60073
Nice set up for the injectors
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Old 12-07-2018, 02:15 PM   #113
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how much HP is this swap good for stock again.
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Old 12-07-2018, 07:44 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Home cleaning of injectors = very cool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Nice set up for the injectors
Thanks guys. I've seen a bunch of videos on YouTube where people use the pressure from the carb cleaner can and it seems to work ok. I just figured a steady air pressure set by a PRV on the fluid would push the cleaner through as well or (hopefully) a bit better. Still not a professional cleaning and calibration by any means, but it was a good run to see if there was any injectors with poor spray patterns, streams, etc..

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
how much HP is this swap good for stock again.
2016 Scion iM literature calls the 2ZR-FAE 137 hp and 126 ft-lb at the crank - vs. 1NZ-FE 106 hp and 103 ft-lb at the crank. Yields an increase of 29% hp and 22% torque. As I've noted before, it's not #zomgihaveasportzcar fast, but it's noticeably quicker and makes the power differently than the 1NZ-FE. I keep it well under 100 mph.

-- Adam
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Old 12-07-2018, 07:47 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
Thanks guys. I've seen a bunch of videos on YouTube where people use the pressure from the carb cleaner can and it seems to work ok. I just figured a steady air pressure set by a PRV on the fluid would push the cleaner through as well or (hopefully) a bit better. Still not a professional cleaning and calibration by any means, but it was a good run to see if there was any injectors with poor spray patterns, streams, etc..



2016 Scion iM literature calls the 2ZR-FAE 137 hp and 126 ft-lb at the crank - vs. 1NZ-FE 106 hp and 103 ft-lb at the crank. Yields an increase of 29% hp and 22% torque. As I've noted before, it's not #zomgihaveasportzcar fast, but it's noticeably quicker and makes the power differently than the 1NZ-FE. I keep it well under 100 mph.

-- Adam

i think i will use the LE eco corolla because it has 140 hp
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Old 12-08-2018, 11:28 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
i think i will use the LE eco corolla because it has 140 hp
My recollection is that the Corolla LE ECO only came with a CVT; I could be wrong if you look back to earlier years though.. If that suits what you want then you're aces - and may have the first CVT swapped Yaris? However, if you want to run with the Yaris AT or MT then you will run into difficulties. Pulling the engine from a Corolla LE ECO will get you a 2ZR-FAE, but just mind the fact that you'll need an iM (or other -FAE based) ECM to run stock with the AT or MT transmissions.

Of course, if you're mixing and matching engines and transmissions and not using a stock setup then you're well out of my league and diving into new territory.

-- Adam
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Old 12-08-2018, 02:41 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
My recollection is that the Corolla LE ECO only came with a CVT; I could be wrong if you look back to earlier years though.. If that suits what you want then you're aces - and may have the first CVT swapped Yaris? However, if you want to run with the Yaris AT or MT then you will run into difficulties. Pulling the engine from a Corolla LE ECO will get you a 2ZR-FAE, but just mind the fact that you'll need an iM (or other -FAE based) ECM to run stock with the AT or MT transmissions.

Of course, if you're mixing and matching engines and transmissions and not using a stock setup then you're well out of my league and diving into new territory.

-- Adam
the 4AT is much stronger then the CVT why i wanted to use it, and i wanted the extra hp the torque numbers look absymal though on both vehicles both motors for these cars run for under 1000$ so this might be the next budget swap when working with the 3rd gens. #corollacru

Edit: Do the scion IM gauges fit on this car those are looking very similar to a certain model that was released in europe, minus the auris hybrid face.

edit 2: might have to just bite the bullet for now to get better performance after seeing this thread and seeing how cheap they are, i wanted an AWD turbo motor but theres no sense in going for more HP if its unusable and will cost more weight, the lighter engine from the IM will offset the small gain in HP.
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Last edited by DarkShadowFox; 12-08-2018 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:05 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
the 4AT is much stronger then the CVT why i wanted to use it,
...
Edit: Do the scion IM gauges fit on this car those are looking very similar to a certain model that was released in europe, minus the auris hybrid face.
...
edit 2: might have to just bite the bullet for now to get better performance after seeing this thread and seeing how cheap they are, i wanted an AWD ...
If you're going to use the AT from the Yaris then I think you're best bet is an iM ECM; definitely have a look into it. Not sure about the gauges, I use the Yaris gauge cluster. Not sure there's an AWD drivetrain that mates to a ZR engine, that's new territory.

Update on the LTFT: I installed the airflow straightener this afternoon and went for a drive. It looked like the LTFT was getting better as it seemed to float around -17% or so, sometimes getting better, occasionally dropping into the -20s%. I reset the learned values and drove it home from in town... and... it's... -36% again. Poop. So either it was working, and then honking on it flung it into the intake and it's stuck in there against the MAF or throttle body (uh-oh!) or it's not working at all - in fact the door screen actually seemed better at that point, lol.

Still waiting on the OEM MAF to arrive.. fingers crossed.

-- Adam
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:20 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
If you're going to use the AT from the Yaris then I think you're best bet is an iM ECM; definitely have a look into it. Not sure about the gauges, I use the Yaris gauge cluster. Not sure there's an AWD drivetrain that mates to a ZR engine, that's new territory.

Update on the LTFT: I installed the airflow straightener this afternoon and went for a drive. It looked like the LTFT was getting better as it seemed to float around -17% or so, sometimes getting better, occasionally dropping into the -20s%. I reset the learned values and drove it home from in town... and... it's... -36% again. Poop. So either it was working, and then honking on it flung it into the intake and it's stuck in there against the MAF or throttle body (uh-oh!) or it's not working at all - in fact the door screen actually seemed better at that point, lol.

Still waiting on the OEM MAF to arrive.. fingers crossed.

-- Adam
japans auris aka scion IM 2011(huurp i think)-2017 model years gets 4wd optional, what wont the japanese put 4wd on

ITS A BED IT HAS 4wd !!!11111

edit the gauges i am thinking of is a 2017 Sport plus gauge cluster face on an IM Frame.
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:59 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
japans auris aka scion IM 2011(huurp i think)-2017 model years gets 4wd optional, what wont the japanese put 4wd on
...
Well that might give you your cake and let you eat it too.

--

Regarding the on-going fuel issues - GOOD news... for people who like... GOOD NEWS (for a change).

After the flow straightener seemed to not do too much, I received my used OEM MAF in the mail on Monday and popped it in, reset learned values, etc.. I did a quick run and it seemed to be happier - but then I've thought that before. Over the past week I have seen squat for CEL/MIL and a run into town last night to get gas I found LTFT is both more stable (less variation) and slightly positive (+6% to +8%). I think I can officially say it's a successful 2ZR-FAE swap now.

After all the reading, troubleshooting, checking and double-checking, the problem was an aftermarket - brand new, popular aftermarket brand - MAF that did actually meet the service manual checks, but apparently is calibrated incorrectly or functionally can't meet the specs of the OEM unit. The real kick in the pants is that although I had looked briefly at the time I bought the new MAF, I found this used OEM unit for about half the price too! In this case, the internet is right - pop for an OEM unit, it's really worth it. Too late to return the aftermarket unit, but I've requested a warranty replacement with the hopes that I'll get one that works and can keep it as a backup or sell it.

Never-the-less.. car seems happy. It's funny, it ran noticeably different after changing the MAF - different idle sound and feel. Of course, because fuelling is different and it wasn't revving as much I found myself having to avoid stalling it for the first couple of days, lol - the only upside before replacement, the kick-up in idle revs made it ready for go time off each stop! But, over the week the stupid high revs at idle sorted itself and it hasn't done that in a couple of days either.

Other than a few wiring tidy-up things, the only additional improvement regarding daily driving for the car would be to find a 2017+ Corolla iM that includes TSS-C so the pre-collision system will stop complaining; the ECM has no idea what's talking to it, so it causes issues with the VSC/TRAC - which is actually disabled when a CEL/MIL comes on, so the MAF issue fixed gives VSC/TRAC back now too.

Thanks again to everyone who has helped and/ore encouraged through the whole swap process, the support here is awesome and hugely appreciated.

-- Adam
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Old 12-16-2018, 12:44 PM   #121
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DUUUDE this is great news, really happy you were able to figure out the issue and although you're probably banging your head against the wall, I'm sure you're glad that it was something so simple and not more compliacted.

Enjoy the new whip. We have to get everyone together this summer who's somewhat local in the GTA or who can make the drive and meet at a track or soemthing.
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Old 12-16-2018, 01:07 PM   #122
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Well I can’t say I’m surprised, diagnosing a MAF is usually a shot in the dark. I believe we discussed this earlier in the thread, and last year I wrote up a blog on how tricky MAF’s can be. They show good voltage and a clean signal, but still causes issues. Little bastards...
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Old 12-16-2018, 02:32 PM   #123
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when it comes to MAF unlesss your going to be running a standalone like haltech or something always run the OEM maf and run a piggyback.
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Old 12-16-2018, 02:35 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
Well that might give you your cake and let you eat it too.

--

Regarding the on-going fuel issues - GOOD news... for people who like... GOOD NEWS (for a change).

After the flow straightener seemed to not do too much, I received my used OEM MAF in the mail on Monday and popped it in, reset learned values, etc.. I did a quick run and it seemed to be happier - but then I've thought that before. Over the past week I have seen squat for CEL/MIL and a run into town last night to get gas I found LTFT is both more stable (less variation) and slightly positive (+6% to +8%). I think I can officially say it's a successful 2ZR-FAE swap now.

After all the reading, troubleshooting, checking and double-checking, the problem was an aftermarket - brand new, popular aftermarket brand - MAF that did actually meet the service manual checks, but apparently is calibrated incorrectly or functionally can't meet the specs of the OEM unit. The real kick in the pants is that although I had looked briefly at the time I bought the new MAF, I found this used OEM unit for about half the price too! In this case, the internet is right - pop for an OEM unit, it's really worth it. Too late to return the aftermarket unit, but I've requested a warranty replacement with the hopes that I'll get one that works and can keep it as a backup or sell it.

Never-the-less.. car seems happy. It's funny, it ran noticeably different after changing the MAF - different idle sound and feel. Of course, because fuelling is different and it wasn't revving as much I found myself having to avoid stalling it for the first couple of days, lol - the only upside before replacement, the kick-up in idle revs made it ready for go time off each stop! But, over the week the stupid high revs at idle sorted itself and it hasn't done that in a couple of days either.

Other than a few wiring tidy-up things, the only additional improvement regarding daily driving for the car would be to find a 2017+ Corolla iM that includes TSS-C so the pre-collision system will stop complaining; the ECM has no idea what's talking to it, so it causes issues with the VSC/TRAC - which is actually disabled when a CEL/MIL comes on, so the MAF issue fixed gives VSC/TRAC back now too.

Thanks again to everyone who has helped and/ore encouraged through the whole swap process, the support here is awesome and hugely appreciated.

-- Adam
https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/pa...?siteid=214329

https://jp-carparts.com/toyota/carlist.php?maker=toyota
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Old 12-16-2018, 02:57 PM   #125
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Congrats, Adam!!! Such awesome news!
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Old 12-17-2018, 11:00 AM   #126
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you know i forgot to ask, which gauge cluster did you use in the yaris and how did you fit it?
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