Team Tiamat Racing's 2014 LSR Season Build

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

When you do the OPSU, could you take pictures of where you are putting it and the hardware you are using.. I have been debating on weather or not I should get the Sandwich adapter or not, but wasn't sure where I could get another source of oil pressure.

Also, where are you getting a signal for your Water temp gauge? Are you using the signal from the OEM sensor to ECU? If so, what gauge are you using? If not, where did you install your Temp Sensor?

Sorry, I am in the process of doing my gauges and trying to find the cleanest and easiest way to do it.. searching for all my options.

thanks

Unless there is a space issue we will be installing a T fitting here:

[fnkngrv]

Ordered a new FMIC as well. After further review looks like I will be going with an upgraded intercooler too. Current one is a fin type 28x5.5x2.5 1 5/8". A new bar and plate type 28x7x2.5 2.5" is on the way. I didn't really know about IC design when the first setup was purchased. I am pretty curious if I had gone bar and plate before along with bigger injectors if I would have been able to squeeze 15-20 more hp/tq. New IC will be here by Tuesday.

[ilikerice]

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

Unless there is a space issue we will be installing a T fitting here

thanks, that helps me a lot. Will probably go that route, fairly easy to get to with intake mani off

[malibuguy]

Those badlandz cut outs are a joke. People bring them in all the time to be installed. They leak and ive seen several go bad within a few months.

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by malibuguy

Those badlandz cut outs are a joke. People bring them in all the time to be installed. They leak and ive seen several go bad within a few months.

Honestly from my research the bulk of the electric cutouts are junk no matter what you pay. I have also seen a lot of feedback where people don't use them correctly. For example the open them under load. They are not designed for that. It will be used most likely 2 weekends a year at most so I am not seriously worried. I called and spoke with them and they told me if I ever have a problem they will ship me replacement parts without a problem. Also we have a few folks that use them at my functions without issues. I guess we will see.

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[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

thanks, that helps me a lot. Will probably go that route, fairly easy to get to with intake mani off

Here you go on the install pics. We reused the oil dummy light location.









The important thing to remember is that it really should be a temporary solution. These sending units don't like vibration. When we have more time we will mount remotely on a hose.

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[fnkngrv]

A few more new install pics.







Spark plugs that I will be using when racing and running over 20psi of boost:



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[fnkngrv]

Also today we found something interesting on the original turbo. Not really sure when this began to happen, but the weld began to give way on the internal wastegate flap. Started to peel like opening a Lunchable so I was losing plenty of actual pressure. Who knows.....could have been doing this when I did runs last year. Only speculation, but then it is entirely possible that I could have broken 150mph in the 1.5 mile course even with the current at the time fuel system setup.



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[fnkngrv]

The new FMIC arrived today. Now with this it will require new couplers so those are on the way too.





Also we wrapped up the fuel regulator and line install to the rear of the car preparing for the install of the new fuel pump and inline filter.






Also relocated the water temp sensor for higher accuracy from the lower radiator hose which of course is going to show much cooler since it is on the inlet side of the motor.

[ilikerice]

The kittens are really appreciating you posting daily..

I have been debating on where to wire my coolant temp sensor also.. I wasn't sure if I should to with lower or upper radiator hose.. I would think lower would have been better because you would get the temp sooner if you begin to overheat. But then the upper would be good because then if the fans stop working then you would see a rise there too sooner..
I don't know, I guess it really doesn't matter right? At some point the coolant temp will increase if it gets too hot

[fnkngrv]

The biggest problem with this car is that the preferred location is so tight where the draincock is on the rear of the block so that is just about out as an option. The problem with using the lower hose is that it is the coldest your coolant will be since it is just as it has left the radiator. At that point you are guessing what the temp really is in the engine. Best guess that seasoned racers have told me is that you need to add 35-40° to what your gauge is showing with it being on the lower hose. We have discussed tapping the block on the drivers side in the future and taking it off the hose altogether, but that will be very tight quarters too.

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[CTScott]

You could also intersect the hoses that go into and out of the throttle body.

[ilikerice]

OMG SCOTT,
you're Brilliant..

but what adaptor would be best to use on those hoses? Just "T" one of them off and add a sensor at the end of one of them?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

OMG SCOTT,
you're Brilliant..

but what adaptor would be best to use on those hoses? Just "T" one of them off and add a sensor at the end of one of them?

That's how I would do it. I think it would give a bit closer to actual engine temp than the radiator hose would.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Maybe I missed it, but why are you not sourcing the water temp from the factory sensor in the head? That is where I pull mine from. Then I use the MI sandwich adapter for oil temp and pressure. Easy.

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

Maybe I missed it, but why are you not sourcing the water temp from the factory sensor in the head? That is where I pull mine from. Then I use the MI sandwich adapter for oil temp and pressure. Easy.

Because the ECU needs the most accurate reading not some additional gauge that has nothing to do with the way engine runs. If I weren't going to be doing what I am doing then I wouldn't worry about it, but I push the engine very hard and fast so this is how I want it to be.

As for the sandwich adapter I will be selling mine. I spoke above how I will be moving the oil pressure sending unit even off the T. I prefer not to run sandwich adapters. Case in point that my jack was run over during the winter and I had to change the oil about 6 weeks back. I had no choice but to take the car to a shop. I told them that the sandwich adapter was there yet they still somehow ended up loosening it and then it caused a leak after the oil change plus the tech damaged my sending unit in the process. Not worth the trouble if I end up in a bind.

[xnamerxx]

Not to pick nits or anything, but wouldn't you want to source the temp data from the head and not from a coolant hose? Since there is already a boss for the temp sensor it seems like a no brainer.

In the crapcan enduro car we decided against the hose sensor because it was just another avenue for failure and the temp data wasn't going to be good enough if there was a leak or some other failure.

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

Not to pick nits or anything, but wouldn't you want to source the temp data from the head and not from a coolant hose? Since there is already a boss for the temp sensor it seems like a no brainer.

In the crapcan enduro car we decided against the hose sensor because it was just another avenue for failure and the temp data wasn't going to be good enough if there was a leak or some other failure.

Not to sound like a dick, but to each their own. The OEM sensor is feeding the data to the ECU in my build. This is one of those things like engine oil or log vs tube style turbo manifold designs. It could be debated all day and night. We all make choices in our builds and have our own experiences. In my case I am also leveraging the experience of several builds that do what I do also. One of the most interesting things is how people in general believe that auto-x, circle track, road course, 1/4 drags, and what I do should all be built the same which of course is not true. The stressors are all different.

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