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Old 11-20-2014, 12:39 PM   #1
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback
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Passenger door lock is stuck

Hi,

I have a basic (no electronics or keyless entry) 2008 three door (hatchback) Yaris. For several weeks the passenger door lock has been stuck. I can lock & unlock it and open & close it from the inside. But I cannot unlock it from the outside with a key. I can, of course, open and close it from the outside IF it is unlocked.

I should add, the key just does not turn when put into the lock. It is apparently "stuck."

I have already tried putting graphite, WD 40 and PB Blaster into the key hole. But none of these has worked.

Any ideas what I can do?

Thanks,

R.

Last edited by RMcG; 11-20-2014 at 12:44 PM. Reason: to add sentence about key not turning
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Old 11-20-2014, 12:41 PM   #2
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Have you tried a different key, in case your current one is worn enough that the lock tumblers don't like it?
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Old 11-20-2014, 12:47 PM   #3
RMcG
 
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Have you tried a different key, in case your current one is worn enough that the lock tumblers don't like it?
No I have not tried that Scott. I think I have at least one spare, probably two. So I will try them and see if they work and get back to you all. Hopefully it will be that simple to solve.

Thanks,

R.
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Old 11-20-2014, 02:04 PM   #4
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GOOD NEWS! I tried one of the spare keys and it seems to work fine. I can open the passenger door from the outside with the key when it is locked fine now. The sparekey also seems to work better in the other locks (driver's side, hatchback lid) too.

I believe this spare key has been used little since I bought the car.

Thanks Scott,

R.
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Old 11-20-2014, 02:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcG View Post
GOOD NEWS! I tried one of the spare keys and it seems to work fine. I can open the passenger door from the outside with the key when it is locked fine now. The sparekey also seems to work better in the other locks (driver's side, hatchback lid) too.

I believe this spare key has been used little since I bought the car.

Thanks Scott,

R.
Very good. That is actually a common issue with the most-used key wearing to the point where the least-used locks won't recognize it.
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:32 PM   #6
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I want to make a replacement key without paying an arm or leg for it. As far as I know, the key has no chip in its head. It has no keyless entry, etc. and I have no awareness that there is a chip in the key. But I called a local hardware store here and they said it still might have a chip in it. The key does have a think black plastic head, but there are no button or anything on the head. Apparently if there is a chip in the ky it is much more expensive to make another key.

Edit: I have looked at the owner's manual and I do not think I have an engine immobilzer system; this is the cheapest Toyota Yaris you can buy. I think it came with 3 master keys that are all th same.

QUESTION: Is there any way to tell if there is a chip in the key?

Thanks,

R.

Last edited by RMcG; 11-20-2014 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:00 PM   #7
gabriel2012
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcG View Post
I want to make a replacement key without paying an arm or leg for it. As far as I know, the key has no chip in its head. It has no keyless entry, etc. and I have no awareness that there is a chip in the key. But I called a local hardware store here and they said it still might have a chip in it. The key does have a think black plastic head, but there are no button or anything on the head. Apparently if there is a chip in the ky it is much more expensive to make another key.

Edit: I have looked at the owner's manual and I do not think I have an engine immobilzer system; this is the cheapest Toyota Yaris you can buy. I think it came with 3 master keys that are all th same.

QUESTION: Is there any way to tell if there is a chip in the key?

Thanks,

R.
Look at your ignition (silver round part where the key goes in)
Is it completely grey or does it have a black ring around the keyhole?

If its all grey you don't have a chipped key
If it has a black ring around the keyhole you have a chip. (Pic stolen from CTScott :D)

Chipless keys are cheap, I had one made the other day for $5.

Cheers
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:04 PM   #8
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^Exactly. The two other ways to tell are to look for a small circular dimple drilled into the metal part of the key, just before it enters the plastic and to look for the flashing red light on the dash by the driver's side defogger vent that flashes when you shut the engine off.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:07 PM   #9
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Clean all that gunk out of your lock. Use electrical contact cleaner. WD40 ( WD 40 is NOT a lubricant, lubricants in general) will cause a problem eventually. Picked up that info from a master locksmith.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:04 PM   #10
RMcG
 
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Thanks Scott, Norton and Gabriel,

The key has no chip. I had it made locally for under $5 and it works smoothly on all the 3 locks. They had a machine that appears to read some kind of code from the actual metal "hills" and "valleys" on the key. The good spare key was used to make the new key.

The old worn out key is probably not good for much anymore. But maybe that code can still be read from the worn out key. If so, I'll keep it. If not, probably best to just recycle the metal.

QUESTION: Does anybody know if the worn out key still has a reabable code?

Thanks,

R
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcG View Post
QUESTION: Does anybody know if the worn out key still has a reabable code?
If they key still worked on your driver's side door, then it is useable.

As such, I'd grind it down to the point it doesn't work at all, then chuck it.

A Dremel tool would make this an easy job!

There is no "code" if there is no chip.
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Old 11-20-2014, 09:21 PM   #12
RMcG
 
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Originally Posted by MadMax View Post
If they key still worked on your driver's side door, then it is useable.

As such, I'd grind it down to the point it doesn't work at all, then chuck it.

A Dremel tool would make this an easy job!

There is no "code" if there is no chip.
Thanks Max,

They were apparently able to get some information from the key by inserting it into a device. This information allowed them to quote me a price before the key was cut. Since there is no chip in the key, then it seems to me the information was obtained from 1) the absence of a chip and/or 2) from the metal hills and valleys.

I don't think the price quote was based on my telling them the make, model and year. So it seems that there must be some kind of info in the metal hills and valleys , no? (Even if the info is not called a "code.")

JUST TO BE CLEAR WHAT I AM ASKING: Maybe I should save the old wornout partially usable key, maybe it could be used to make a new key in the future if necessary.

Any further comments would be welcomed.

Thanks,

R.

Last edited by RMcG; 11-21-2014 at 11:46 AM. Reason: to clarify question
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Old 11-23-2014, 04:20 PM   #13
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The "hills and valleys" are the "codes" that tell the ignition it is the correct key for the vehicle.

I have the same exact model car (manual locks and no alarm). There is nothing else in the key that "talks" with the car.

I would not use the old, worn out key to make duplicates. It is obviously worn down and all you will be doing is creating another key that is also worn down (despite being new).

In other words, the old key is pretty much worthless. Use the newer key that works on both doors to make another copy and grind the old one down to the point where it doesn't work then throw it away.

Keys are cheap, unless you buy them from a dealership. Plenty of other places that will make a duplicate at a fraction of the price.

Cheers! M2
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Old 11-24-2014, 12:07 PM   #14
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Thanks Max, Scott, Norton and Gabriel,

Mission accomplished!

R.
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