My Long Tube header build - Page 5 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Jason@SportsCar · 11-23-2012, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

I might just take you up on that offer. Any idea how long the car is going to be down for service?

I would guess at least another week. But it is not getting raced again until Jan, so it would not be a big deal even after I get the suspension back in.

tooter · 11-23-2012, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

I didn't borrow from any existing designs, but with the given lengths I need to work with it just happened to follow their design.

I know. It's the available space that defines the shape, so all the headers are constrained to follow the same basic conforming profile.

When you get it done, post a video of how the engine sounds with the open header. I bet it'll sound awesome!

xnamerxx · 11-24-2012, 12:43 PM

I've got an ideal length to work with so in order to hit that ideal length while staying within the constrains of the chassis. My bends aren't quite as smooth as the DC since I've got to hit certain lengths so my bends snake a little bit which you don't quite see in the pictures.
I just decided to have the primaries terminate in about the same location as the stock header. The secondary is going to have some of that snaking as well just so I can get a few extra inches of tube length.

I'll make sure to give you a video after everything is said and done :)

Jason@SportsCar · 11-24-2012, 09:27 PM

Test fit. Looks good so far.

4/20 NEVER FORGET · 11-24-2012, 10:02 PM

That looks awesome! Primary length looks fantastic.

Hey, quick question. How many wires does the secondary o2 sensor have? (the sensor after the 1st cat) Thanks!

xnamerxx · 11-24-2012, 10:26 PM

4

tooter · 11-25-2012, 12:12 AM

It looks like the tubing is oriented very nicely...

By the way, what mm inside diameter tubing are you using? And had you considered using twin runner bolt on connector plates similar to this one to make your header two-piece?

xnamerxx · 11-25-2012, 05:05 PM

The 2 halves will be flanged so it can be installed.
The tubing diameter is 1 3/8 for the primaries.

malibuguy · 11-25-2012, 05:18 PM

looks good. where are you going to locate the flex joints?

ive still havent decided if i want to build one as well, or go turblose. if the motor seems to respond very well to your header, i may stay n/a

tooter · 11-25-2012, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

The 2 halves will be flanged so it can be installed.
The tubing diameter is 1 3/8 for the primaries.

That's just about the same as the 36mm Weapon R tubing. I'm really curious how much you'll gain by the longer runners. You definitely have the principles of performance working in your favor.

xnamerxx · 11-25-2012, 05:47 PM

Its going to terminate at the flexjoint. There is only so much power that the exhaust, but with that being said there is a serious restriction with the exhaust. This mod will really pair well ecu tuning so I may not see a whole lot of power over existing ots headers, I should see a ton more torque over any of the existing pieces which is one of the reasons I decided to build this.

Bluevitz-rs · 11-25-2012, 10:59 PM

I'm quite certain you're going to snap the header if you move the flex joint that far down the line. The reason the joint is where it is, is because of the engine movement. If you try and move it that far down, it'll either break away at the head or break the joint where the stock flex joint should be located.

cali yaris · 11-25-2012, 11:15 PM

xnamerxx · 11-25-2012, 11:23 PM

The stock motor doesn't have a flex joint, it uses a ball and socket joint. The reason the joint is located where it is stock is because that's the easiest and cheapest place to put it. There does have to be some flex in the exhaust and ideally it should be as close to the motor as possible but you work with the space you're given.
The exhaust itself is hung which allows some movement there so the only reason you even need flex in the exhaust itself is to reduce the wagging motion of the main pipe and reduce load from the header. If you look at the header there is a support beam the bolts to the block and the header and that's what's carrying most of the fore and aft load from the header which is another reason why the ball and socket is located where it is. I've done some analysis on this I have an idea of where the load is sitting. If the side bracket isn't in place all of the load will sit on the flange and the failure will be located on the flange, if the side bracket is in place the pipes are thick enough to handle most of the load but the secondary flange will still be taking some load under movement but its substantially less with the flex joint in place. So to get some flex I chose a flex joint over a ball and socket because its easier for me to incorporate it the multiple center section exhausts that I have.

1.5 · 11-26-2012, 12:18 AM

xnamerxx · 11-28-2012, 12:27 AM

Well the primaries are all welded up so I'm stuck waiting for my new flange to be made but once I get that piece it'll be finished quickly.

xnamerxx · 11-28-2012, 12:23 PM

So nice and purdy

tooter · 11-28-2012, 01:44 PM

When you weld stainless steel, does the electric welder need to use any gas?

11-24-2012, 09:27 PM	#76
Jason@SportsCar Drives: 2015 H Production Yaris Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Debary, FL Posts: 1,953	Test fit. Looks good so far. __________________ 2005-2008 SCCA Solo BS National Champion 2017-2018 SCCA H Prod National Champion

11-24-2012, 10:26 PM	#78
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	4 4

11-25-2012, 05:18 PM	#81
malibuguy Obsessed with 1.5L Drives: '10 PW Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Westminster, MD Posts: 907	looks good. where are you going to locate the flex joints? ive still havent decided if i want to build one as well, or go turblose. if the motor seems to respond very well to your header, i may stay n/a __________________ -Greg...the Exhaust Freak. -10 PW sedan 107whp/110wtq, full exhaust, suspension bits, TRD LSD -06 Highlander 3mzfe Limited AWD -82 Malibu, 1uzfe swap -97 Tercel coupe, 1nzfe/4.31 -96 Tercel coupe, Turbo 5efe, autoX -96 Tercel 4dr

11-25-2012, 11:15 PM	#85
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	__________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

11-26-2012, 12:18 AM	#87
1.5 Form>Function Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tampa Posts: 4,018	__________________ Instagram: @southernstreets_phil Facebook.com/southernstreetsempire

11-24-2012, 12:43 PM	#75
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	I've got an ideal length to work with so in order to hit that ideal length while staying within the constrains of the chassis. My bends aren't quite as smooth as the DC since I've got to hit certain lengths so my bends snake a little bit which you don't quite see in the pictures. I just decided to have the primaries terminate in about the same location as the stock header. The secondary is going to have some of that snaking as well just so I can get a few extra inches of tube length. I'll make sure to give you a video after everything is said and done :)

11-24-2012, 10:02 PM	#77
4/20 NEVER FORGET Drives: 2008 Yaris HB MT Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 100	That looks awesome! Primary length looks fantastic. Hey, quick question. How many wires does the secondary o2 sensor have? (the sensor after the 1st cat) Thanks!

11-25-2012, 12:12 AM	#79
tooter play every day Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,961	It looks like the tubing is oriented very nicely... By the way, what mm inside diameter tubing are you using? And had you considered using twin runner bolt on connector plates similar to this one to make your header two-piece?

11-25-2012, 05:05 PM	#80
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	The 2 halves will be flanged so it can be installed. The tubing diameter is 1 3/8 for the primaries.

11-25-2012, 05:47 PM	#83
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Its going to terminate at the flexjoint. There is only so much power that the exhaust, but with that being said there is a serious restriction with the exhaust. This mod will really pair well ecu tuning so I may not see a whole lot of power over existing ots headers, I should see a ton more torque over any of the existing pieces which is one of the reasons I decided to build this.

11-25-2012, 10:59 PM	#84
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	I'm quite certain you're going to snap the header if you move the flex joint that far down the line. The reason the joint is where it is, is because of the engine movement. If you try and move it that far down, it'll either break away at the head or break the joint where the stock flex joint should be located.

11-25-2012, 11:23 PM	#86
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	The stock motor doesn't have a flex joint, it uses a ball and socket joint. The reason the joint is located where it is stock is because that's the easiest and cheapest place to put it. There does have to be some flex in the exhaust and ideally it should be as close to the motor as possible but you work with the space you're given. The exhaust itself is hung which allows some movement there so the only reason you even need flex in the exhaust itself is to reduce the wagging motion of the main pipe and reduce load from the header. If you look at the header there is a support beam the bolts to the block and the header and that's what's carrying most of the fore and aft load from the header which is another reason why the ball and socket is located where it is. I've done some analysis on this I have an idea of where the load is sitting. If the side bracket isn't in place all of the load will sit on the flange and the failure will be located on the flange, if the side bracket is in place the pipes are thick enough to handle most of the load but the secondary flange will still be taking some load under movement but its substantially less with the flex joint in place. So to get some flex I chose a flex joint over a ball and socket because its easier for me to incorporate it the multiple center section exhausts that I have.

11-28-2012, 12:27 AM	#88
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Well the primaries are all welded up so I'm stuck waiting for my new flange to be made but once I get that piece it'll be finished quickly.

11-28-2012, 12:23 PM	#89
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	So nice and purdy

11-28-2012, 01:44 PM	#90
tooter play every day Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,961	When you weld stainless steel, does the electric welder need to use any gas?

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