Yaris won`t start..3rd Battery

[bgolash]

Hi
I am getting frustrated with my 2010 Yaris. Over a 1 ½ year I`ve gone thru 2 batteries. The second battery was pro-rated and got a replacement.
That died 5 months’ latter. So I took the Yaris to the dealership in a last ditch effort to solve the problem. The mechanic mentions that Goodyear
Battery is junk. So, the Toyota dealership puts in a new battery. That is good for 8 months then the car won`t start again. Cost $300.00

Then I hear from a friend that you`ll have problems if you don`t use the car regularly. So I make a concerted effort to use it all the time. Instead
of using my Toyota Tacoma. At that point, I`m running again for months and thought the problem was resolved.

Had a big snow storm. I used the truck to plow and the Yaris sat unused for two days. It was very cold…. dead again. This is getting to be aggravating.
So…I assume its an alternator or other electronic components that are the real cause. I assume the dealership tested the electrical components but now
am even uncertain they tested anything.

When u attempt to start all you hear is a buzz. Engine makes no sounds of starting.

Thanks

[Bluevitz-rs]

Do you have any aftermarket accessories installed?

ex: alarm, or remote starter?

[bgolash]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

Do you have any aftermarket accessories installed?

ex: alarm, or remote starter?

Yes Remote Starter. Can I disable it myself. Someone somewhere mentioned remote starters can be a problem.

[Bluevitz-rs]

ok, start by disconnecting that. It can be draining your battery by constantly looking for a signal.

You can also invest in small fully automatic battery charger 1A or less. You can get them with a lead that bolts to the battery and can connected and disconnected without opening the hood. Simply plug the car in if you know you aren't going to use it for a couple of days and you'll never come out to a dead battery.

[B.B._07]

It sounds like you have a parasitic draw on the battery that is killing the battery if you leave the car unused for a few days. You can check for a parasitic draw by using a good multi-meter or VOM and pulling fuses to isolate the draw. Here's a good video that explains the test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXX8TfzRAKk

You can rule out your alternator by checking the voltage across the battery terminals with the car running. At idle with a few electrical accessories like the headlights and heater fan turned on you should have somewhere around 13.5V.

[bgolash]

Originally Posted by B.B._07

I sounds like you have a parasitic draw on the battery that is killing the battery if you leave the car unused for a few days. You can check for a parasitic draw by using a good multi-meter or VOM and pulling fuses to isolate the draw. Here's a good video that explains the test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXX8TfzRAKk

You can rule out your alternator by checking the voltage across the battery terminals with the car running. At idle with a few electrical accessories like the headlights and heater fan turned on you should have somewhere around 13.5V.

Thank you...Great Information.

[bgolash]

Hi All

I did the test with the help of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXX8TfzRAKk
It seems the meter gives a reading of .15 DC. I assume that tells me I don`t
have a parasitic draw. Should I check the alternator next.

Just remembered this: a new problem with the car is the passenger side window will not power up or down.
Not certain when the window died but I`v been having this problem with car starting for at least 2 1/2.
Could the electrical related to the power window cause a drain.

Regards, Barry

[alias06]

I'd suggest re-doing the parasitic test. When you are looking for a parasitic drain you should be reading in amps, not DC. Your post above shows that you are in the wrong setting.

[bgolash]

Originally Posted by alias06

I'd suggest re-doing the parasitic test. When you are looking for a parasitic drain you should be reading in amps, not DC. Your post above shows that you are in the wrong setting.

Hi, A battery is DC so wouldn`t the amps be considered DC. I`m not trying to second -guess you. Just trying to understand the theory.
I did move the probe to Amps and set the meter to 20 amps. Then took the reading. If I`m recalling correctly what I did.
For the hell of it, I`ll follow the video a second time and check myself.
Thanks for the reply!

[dogsridewith]

My 91 Corolla drains about 10 milliamps w/ everything off.

[alias06]

Originally Posted by bgolash

Hi, A battery is DC so wouldn`t the amps be considered DC. I`m not trying to second -guess you. Just trying to understand the theory.
I did move the probe to Amps and set the meter to 20 amps. Then took the reading. If I`m recalling correctly what I did.
For the hell of it, I`ll follow the video a second time and check myself.
Thanks for the reply!

When you are reading Voltage (V) on a battery it is in DC voltage. Current is measured in Amps (A). If you are going to follow the video in the link from the previous post make sure that you do have the battery disconnected with one lead going to the negative post while the other lead has a good connection with the grounding cable. Don't forget to make sure that the meter is in the correct configuration for the test.