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Old 09-25-2009, 04:48 PM   #1
Astroman
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Help! Airbag light issue

Alright, first off my airbag light comes on and stays on. This is the drivers airbag light. Of course the Scangauge doesn't show why.

I haven't hit anything.
I haven't done any modifications that would cause this (haven't done any for a long long time).
I don't see any wires loose or disconnected, and everything under the drivers seat is plugged in.

This happened after I washed my engine bay (which I've done the past 3 years without issue) and at first the light would take 10-15 minutes to turn on. Now it's instant. The car is still running great, and I will probably be turning over 72k miles by the end of this weekend.

Any ideas with solutions?
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Old 09-27-2009, 12:38 AM   #2
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Originally posted by CTScott to help me diagnose my SRS issues when swapping my seats:

First off, try a 15-20 minute disconnect of the battery in an attempt to clear any stored SRS codes. If that doesn't work, try the following:

We can find out why SRS isn't happy by jumpering CG to TC on the OBDII connector, and then turning the ignition to the on position. After about 60 seconds the SRS will flash in a pattern. The codes are two digits and multiple ones may be shown.

For example, a 31 will be: flash, flash, flash, pause, flash, long pause

There will be a 2.5 second pause in between each, and then a 4 second pause before the pattern repeats.

Here are the pins to jump on the OBD connector:
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Old 09-27-2009, 12:39 AM   #3
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Also from CTScott:

After you shut off the ignition and removed the jumper the DTC's may have been cleared. With the jumper removed, turn the ignition back to on and see if the SRS light is still on.
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Old 09-27-2009, 12:43 AM   #4
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And finally, if all else fails...

Here is the procedure for manually clearing the stored SRS codes (The SM says that some codes do not clear with a power down):

1. With a jumper, connect the TC and CG terminals on the OBD port.

2. When the SRS light starts flashing the codes, within 3 to 10 seconds remove the jumper frm TC. After 3 seconds the SRS light will come on solid.

3. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

4. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. Once it does, within 2 to 4 seconds disconnect TC.

5. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will come one solid again. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

6. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. One second later, if all DTCs are cleared the SRS light will flash steadily on and off. If codes are still registered it will flash in the pattern to indicate the stored codes.

PS- This is the most frustrating thing to do... ever.
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:39 AM   #5
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Damn, lol. Thanks for the tips. I think I'll try disconnecting the battery first. I hope that does it.
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:31 AM   #6
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i have the same issue on an 07 HB. I will try to these steps.
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:23 PM   #7
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I avoid water on the engine. Windex and paper towels are your best bet!
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:08 PM   #8
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Turns out for me it was a broken clock spring (spelling?) from a botched job when my car was first fixed after a collision. Body shop won't stand behind their work.
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Old 09-02-2012, 12:08 AM   #9
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Seems like alot of people with a Yaris are having this clockspring issue. Definitely something that should be fixed by the manufacturer.
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:00 PM   #10
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where do i find the OBD connector on my 08 4dr sedan yaris? is it under the dash, like the same connector for the check engine diagnostic tool? lil help is much appreciated
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:03 AM   #11
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Yes, but that wasn't related to this thread.
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:42 PM   #12
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Do these steps always work to remove the light even for a few minutes? I tried to do mine it flashed except at the end it stayed on. Also do you know where I could find any info on which code it would be
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlstale View Post
Do these steps always work to remove the light even for a few minutes? I tried to do mine it flashed except at the end it stayed on. Also do you know where I could find any info on which code it would be
If there is an unrepaired issue, the codes will not clear and the light will remain on.

This thread has most of the codes listed in it:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32554
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:47 PM   #14
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Hey Scott,thanks for the fast reply. One more question if you don't mind. I got a dtc 32. Now my question is will replacing the computer underneath the passenger seat fix this? And also if I do replace it can I simply swap them out or would I still need to reset the ecu? The car was hit in the front about a year ago and a few days after I got it back from the body shop the light flashed at first but now its on steady and my inspection is up in a few days. I looked under the seat and the ecu was hanging there off of its bracket. doesn't make sense,don't know why they messed with it since the airbags didn't deploy. Thanks in advance for any help
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlstale View Post
Hey Scott,thanks for the fast reply. One more question if you don't mind. I got a dtc 32. Now my question is will replacing the computer underneath the passenger seat fix this? And also if I do replace it can I simply swap them out or would I still need to reset the ecu? The car was hit in the front about a year ago and a few days after I got it back from the body shop the light flashed at first but now its on steady and my inspection is up in a few days. I looked under the seat and the ecu was hanging there off of its bracket. doesn't make sense,don't know why they messed with it since the airbags didn't deploy. Thanks in advance for any help
You could replace it without issue, and would still need to do the reset afterward. Another person who had this issue went to their dealer, who "reprogrammed" the OC ECU with the Toyota Techstream tool, which more likely was recalibrated it.

Where in Mass are you located? If you wanted to take a ride down to CT, I could try the same for you with my Techstream tool, which would save on purchasing a replacement.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:15 PM   #16
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I'm in Pittsfield MA,Berkshire County. So I'm not too far from CT. That would actually work for me. I hate going to the dealer for anything. They love to point out things that "NEED" replaing
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jlstale View Post
I'm in Pittsfield MA,Berkshire County. So I'm not too far from CT. That would actually work for me. I hate going to the dealer for anything. They love to point out things that "NEED" replaing
I know Pittsfield well. I go up there every May, to Camp Winadu, for an intense Karate training weekend.

I am in Southbury, CT, which is about 2 hours from there.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:39 PM   #18
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Too bad there isn't a ferry to Pittsfield, LOL!
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