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Old 05-14-2010, 04:32 AM   #1
bankrobber
 
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How to hot wire the Yaris

My son put my keys somewhere in the house and I cant find them and he dont talk yet. It was my only key. my car is not locked. Can I possibly take steering collum apart and jump some wires to start it????
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:53 AM   #2
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Your Toyota dealer can order you another key
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:16 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by bankrobber View Post
My son put my keys somewhere in the house and I cant find them and he dont talk yet. It was my only key. my car is not locked. Can I possibly take steering collum apart and jump some wires to start it????
You're forgetting that the keys have a chip in them to deactivate the factory immobiliser... Crossing wires isn't going to do anything :p
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Old 05-14-2010, 09:32 AM   #4
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actually most yarii dont have immobilisers. Most of the hatches dont while some of the sedans do. I have a 2008 yaris hatch and it doesnt have an immobiliser system
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Old 05-14-2010, 10:50 AM   #5
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his Tag is BankRobber and He want to know how to hotwire our cars...
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Old 05-14-2010, 10:56 AM   #6
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He's made 70 posts. Very dedicated robber then :)
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Old 05-14-2010, 11:21 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bankrobber View Post
My son put my keys somewhere in the house and I cant find them and he dont talk yet. It was my only key. my car is not locked. Can I possibly take steering collum apart and jump some wires to start it????
Since your car doesn't have the engine immobilizer you could hot-wire it. You would have to remove the ignition switch assembly to unlock the steering column.

If you look at my DIY wiring guide for remote start, everything you need is there. You basically would have to jump yellow to pink, white and green to run and yellow to black momentarily to start.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...y+remote+start
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Old 05-14-2010, 12:32 PM   #8
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his Tag is BankRobber and He want to know how to hotwire our cars...

LOL, yea I always use that username cause it's seldom used so I dont have to try 20 different names to find one not being used when registering on forums. I took the advice and had a key made at Toyota dealer for 10 bucks.
I forgot they could do that. Quess I dont need to play "gone in 60 seconds"
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:16 PM   #9
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LOL, yea I always use that user-name cause it's seldom used so I don't have to try 20 different names to find one not being used when registering on forums. I took the advice and had a key made at Toyota dealer for 10 bucks.
I forgot they could do that. Guess I don't need to play "gone in 60 seconds"
Good thing you did make sure to go the hardware store and get a couple extra ones now

Last edited by mimelio; 09-10-2010 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:07 PM   #10
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Quess I dont need to play "gone in 60 seconds"
lol glad to hear you got a key made.

... It still scares me a bit that CTScott is farmiliar with how to hotwire the yaris... ;)
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:36 PM   #11
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lol glad to hear you got a key made.

... It still scares me a bit that CTScott is farmiliar with how to hotwire the yaris... ;)
This is CTScott, nothing he can do should surprise you know. heck, he'll prolly build a real transformer out of a car soon just because he can.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:01 PM   #12
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More info on start procedure wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Since your car doesn't have the engine immobilizer you could hot-wire it. You would have to remove the ignition switch assembly to unlock the steering column.

If you look at my DIY wiring guide for remote start, everything you need is there. You basically would have to jump yellow to pink, white and green to run and yellow to black momentarily to start.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...y+remote+start
Not really interesting in hotwiring so much as DIY remote start. Except I don't plan on buying a module, I'm going to build it from scratch and use my EZ430 Chronos RF wrist watch to send packets to the radio which will start the car and lock / unlock the doors and activate an APRS beacon (all sorts of fun!).

In your guide you do not talk about which wires actually carry what information (voltages etc). Can you list more specifics? Is there a single 12V line that gets jumpered to the various other wires which then trigger relays? If so, then this hotwire procedure has me baffled.

Thanks and this is going to be a fun project, just added cruise control to my '07 liftback last month and I've only had it for a month and a half. Also, I do NOT have an immobilizer so no big deal there. I DO have a manual transmission but that's easy enough to also jumper the clutch switch while remote starting (I don't really want to just bypass it out like others are suggesting)
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:23 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Nebarnix View Post
Not really interesting in hotwiring so much as DIY remote start. Except I don't plan on buying a module, I'm going to build it from scratch and use my EZ430 Chronos RF wrist watch to send packets to the radio which will start the car and lock / unlock the doors and activate an APRS beacon (all sorts of fun!).

In your guide you do not talk about which wires actually carry what information (voltages etc). Can you list more specifics? Is there a single 12V line that gets jumpered to the various other wires which then trigger relays? If so, then this hotwire procedure has me baffled.

Thanks and this is going to be a fun project, just added cruise control to my '07 liftback last month and I've only had it for a month and a half. Also, I do NOT have an immobilizer so no big deal there. I DO have a manual transmission but that's easy enough to also jumper the clutch switch while remote starting (I don't really want to just bypass it out like others are suggesting)

Sounds like a fun project. I have been seriously fighting the urge to buy one of those TI watches, as I already have too many projects in the works.

To start the car, The gray wire in pin 5 of the keyswitch connector (which is the +12V via the AM2 fuse) has to get jumped to the Ignition and Ignition 2 wires and then to the starter wire.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:52 PM   #14
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Sounds like a fun project. I have been seriously fighting the urge to buy one of those TI watches, as I already have too many projects in the works.

To start the car, The gray wire in pin 5 of the keyswitch connector (which is the +12V via the AM2 fuse) has to get jumped to the Ignition and Ignition 2 wires and then to the starter wire.
Ok, that's straight forward enough. In order to keep the ACC (mostly A/C!) on I am assuming that the 12V needs to stay connected to the ignition 1 and 2 wires? Or is that what the ACC wire is for (is it even possible to start the car without accessory power on?) Thanks for your help!
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Old 08-25-2010, 11:15 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Nebarnix View Post
Ok, that's straight forward enough. In order to keep the ACC (mostly A/C!) on I am assuming that the 12V needs to stay connected to the ignition 1 and 2 wires? Or is that what the ACC wire is for (is it even possible to start the car without accessory power on?) Thanks for your help!
Yes, IG1 and IG2 stay at +12 during cranking.

Acc is a separate wire. Acc should be off during cranking (the Yaris has an ACC cut circuit that does that while it is cranking).
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Old 08-25-2010, 11:34 PM   #16
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Yes, IG1 and IG2 stay at +12 during cranking.

Acc is a separate wire. Acc should be off during cranking (the Yaris has an ACC cut circuit that does that while it is cranking).
Thanks!

That sure is a curious way to rig things up with three wires. Security to make it more difficult to hotwire? Hopefully the starter current isn't passing through those wires. I'd like to use these 30A power transistors I have laying around for the control.

You'll have to excuse me, I'm not much of a car person so some of these things which might be tribal knowledge escape me :)
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Old 08-26-2010, 06:59 AM   #17
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Thanks!

That sure is a curious way to rig things up with three wires. Security to make it more difficult to hotwire? Hopefully the starter current isn't passing through those wires. I'd like to use these 30A power transistors I have laying around for the control.

You'll have to excuse me, I'm not much of a car person so some of these things which might be tribal knowledge escape me :)

Everything is low current at the switch. The starter, ignition and accessory wires all switch power to the coil of relays.
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:41 PM   #18
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Everything is low current at the switch. The starter, ignition and accessory wires all switch power to the coil of relays.
Thanks this is great. Interesting question though. How to sense when the key is turned on so that the lines can be dropped -- otherwise, you can't turn off the car because the remote start system is keeping them high!

It might be possible to interface with the speed sensor, break sensor, or cruise control clutch switch. If anyone can think of an easier way (maybe what the commercial units are using) it would be helpful!
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