Warning - Broken control arm bolt!

[WildChild]

I called the dealership this morning and the warranty extension also exists for Canada. The guy mentionned 84 months/160K KM. I have an appointment tomorrow to have this fixed.

The guy said that a new TSB was released in 2012 about the warranty extension, but unfortunately I don't have the number.

[barryware]

After reading this thread (a few times), I stopped at the dealer and picked up two bolts.. After tax, they were under 12 bucks.

I haven't been able to figure out if I need to replace the bolts by the vin.. My vin: JTDJT92317506XXXX.

Doesn't matter now as I have them but I would like to understand the "affected" cars using the vin. I did get the letter from Toyota extending the warranty to 100K miles. I have 97K+ on the car now. (2007 3dr hatch)

I understand that no alignment or anything is necessary after removing the old, and installing the new bolt(s). Is there any concern of anything moving if you have the car jacked up? If I need to jack up the car, any problem using a floor jack and lifting the car by jacking the control arm up.. Right where the strut is? I REALLY hate jacking the car up using the jack points that you would use if you get a flat and need the jack that comes with the car.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by barryware

After reading this thread (a few times), I stopped at the dealer and picked up two bolts.. After tax, they were under 12 bucks.

I haven't been able to figure out if I need to replace the bolts by the vin.. My vin: JTDJT92317506XXXX.

Doesn't matter now as I have them but I would like to understand the "affected" cars using the vin. I did get the letter from Toyota extending the warranty to 100K miles. I have 97K+ on the car now. (2007 3dr hatch)

I understand that no alignment or anything is necessary after removing the old, and installing the new bolt(s). Is there any concern of anything moving if you have the car jacked up? If I need to jack up the car, any problem using a floor jack and lifting the car by jacking the control arm up.. Right where the strut is? I REALLY hate jacking the car up using the jack points that you would use if you get a flat and need the jack that comes with the car.

Correct on no alignment necessary after replacement.

As for jacking, I would not do so at the control arm. The correct front jack point (other than the pinch seams) is where the rear transmission mount meets the frame.

[WildChild]

The repair was done this morning, free of charge.

[esse10]

Question for you folks that used the Copper anti-seize, Did you put the anti-seize on the bolt threads also and did you still torque the bolt to the specs of 118 ft-lbs ? We don't get any salt on the roads down here in Texas but i will remove and inspect these bolts and depending on what condition I find I'll decide what Preventive Maintenance schedule will be required in the future.

Next question; is there a way to get Toyota corp. to acknowledge this problem and send me a letter about the extended warranty? I called my local dealer and the warranty office person acted like she had never heard of such a problem, even after I mentioned the TSB3271.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by esse10

Question for you folks that used the Copper anti-seize, Did you put the anti-seize on the bolt threads also and did you still torque the bolt to the specs of 118 ft-lbs ? We don't get any salt on the roads down here in Texas but i will remove and inspect these bolts and depending on what condition I find I'll decide what Preventive Maintenance schedule will be required in the future.

Next question; is there a way to get Toyota corp. to acknowledge this problem and send me a letter about the extended warranty? I called my local dealer and the warranty office person acted like she had never heard of such a problem, even after I mentioned the TSB3271.

I thoroughly coated the threads and the washer portion of the head and torqued them to spec.

[barryware]

I changed my bolts today.. Drivers side was a problem.. The rust was so heavy on the bolt, it would not clear the bushing.. I had to back & forth, in & out.. Took about 1/2 hour to get it out. Passenger side was not much of a problem.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by barryware

I changed my bolts today.. Drivers side was a problem.. The rust was so heavy on the bolt, it would not clear the bushing.. I had to back & forth, in & out.. Took about 1/2 hour to get it out. Passenger side was not much of a problem.

Wow! That looks like it would not have lasted through this coming winter.

[barryware]

real glad I visit the forum often and found this thread..

FYI.. When I was at the stealer to buy the bolts.. I brought my letter from Toyota.. I asked if they would check.. They said if they are not broke, we won't replace'em.. Sounds kinda silly but that is the way of the stealer.

The letter extends the warranty to 100K miles.. My car has 97K+ so that is why I figured I would just buy the bolts & replace'em.

And.. 120 (118) foot pounds of torque is a $hit load when you are on your back, tugging on $hit!. Me thinks I'm gonna be sore tomorrow.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by barryware

They said if they are not broke, we won't replace'em

Sounds kinda silly but that is the way of the stealer.:

. I think I'm glad () I was way past the warranty period when I first viewed this thread. Zero chance of being disappointed on that particular score.

[andulong]

Originally Posted by CTScott

90119-14151 is a new part number. It replaces 90119-14126 and 90119-14144.

HI, I am still holding out on replacing these bolts and now more confused than before. I bought the bolts # 14126 and was told that was the proper bolt to use and that it was not an issue with a defective bolt but more with improper drainage causing rust. Then I read the above post. So, now there is a different part number, does anyone know if it is actually a new and improved bolt? Thanks. I just want to do this once and hopefully get it right.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by andulong

HI, I am still holding out on replacing these bolts and now more confused than before. I bought the bolts # 14126 and was told that was the proper bolt to use and that it was not an issue with a defective bolt but more with improper drainage causing rust. Then I read the above post. So, now there is a different part number, does anyone know if it is actually a new and improved bolt? Thanks. I just want to do this once and hopefully get it right.

Toyota often seems to change part numbers, and sometimes with no visible change to the part (it could be something as simple as them changing suppliers for the part and hence revving the part number). I bought some of the 90119-14151 bolts and there does not appear to be any difference in strength rating, plating, etc. with the new part number.

I personally plan on checking (and perhaps replacing) the bolts once per year.

[TOLMACH]

Is this the one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-9...35e9d7&vxp=mtr

#6 on the diagram

(My car is Canadian, but I guess bolts should be the same)

Thanks

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

Is this the one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-9...35e9d7&vxp=mtr

#6 on the diagram

(My car is Canadian, but I guess bolts should be the same)

Thanks

Correct.

[nookandcrannycar]

On 8-24-13 I read (posted that day) Camh's account of the accident (re the control arm bolt breaking) while driving his daughter's low mileage Yaris, and read Hershey's post (got his bolts replaced later that day). I also had a 'Yikes' reaction. I was in Branson, and over the next day or two drove around Table Rock Lake. The roads there are kind of funky. I didn't know if what I was feeling was because of the roads or my Yaris. On my way back to the Interstate, I stopped in Springfield, Missouri to get my oil changed and have the car otherwise looked at on a lift. The tech wrote that one of the motor mounts was worn, but didn't specify which one .

Earlier this month, the bulb went out on the middle of the 3 climate gauges on my Yaris. I had to order the bulb and prepay. Then the light came back on (the wheel is bent via my little cousin's foot when she was 5 ). I decided to ask if I could get a credit for the bulb and get 2 control arm bolts (a bit over 5 dollars when I priced them earlier this year...now a few cents over $8 (more than Kaotic paid in CA). The dealer let me do this. For the last week I've been feeling there must be something wrong, and have been really babying the car. I decided to take it in today (to the shop that did the serp belt, parking brake adjust, etc.) and have them check out the control arms, tie rods, steering rack, the knuckle, all the bushings, etc. and the motor mounts...and then proceed from there. The car had 267,865 miles on it when I drove in.

What a relief! All the above checked out just fine. Tech said the guy in Springfielfd was 'wrong'...likely just trying to get me to spend money. I also had them check the brakes...still good. I then had them replace the control arm bolts with the ones I got (as others on this thread have) from the Toyota dealer and had them torque the bolts to the spec CTScott (IIRC) recommended....I'm glad I did, as they DID have SOME RUST on them.. Given all of this, I thought the 'feeling' I'd been getting must be windier weather and having the tires at 37psi instead of the factory recommended 32psi. The manager felt I might be correct, so I had them put the tires at 32psi.

My total Bill (I almost feel bad as IIRC one person on this thread paid for 1.25 hours of labor for the control arm bolt replacement) $33.08.

The Firestone store where I got my tires is up the street, so I headed up there (slow leak in driver rear tire needed free repair). I could hear the wind around the car, but the lower PSI in the tires made all the difference in the world.

After the tire store, I headed to a brake specific shop to get a better idea on specific % of wear (only thing the first shop wasn't specific on). Still under 40% wear front and back..check=free...at 267,897 miles (was right at 20% wear front and back about 60k miles ago).

P.S. - Factory recommended PSI = Toyota recommendation (not Firestone)

[CTScott]

I keep forgetting to post that this now includes 2007 to 2012 Yaris per T-SB-0078-12.

The newer TSB no longer specifies VIN range, but rather just says that:

"Some 2007 – 2012 model year Yaris vehicles may exhibit a noise from the front area that is heard under acceleration/deceleration, when braking, or when driving over an uneven road surface. New No. 2 front lower suspension arm bolts are now available to address this condition."

The current bolt part number per the TSB is: 90119-14151

It also mentions that some bolts may have and orange dot on the head and those that do are non-reusable, where ones without the orange dot can be removed and retorqued.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I keep forgetting to post that this now includes 2007 to 2012 Yaris per T-SB-0078-12.

The newer TSB no longer specifies VIN range, but rather just says that:

"Some 2007 – 2012 model year Yaris vehicles may exhibit a noise from the front area that is heard under acceleration/deceleration, when braking, or when driving over an uneven road surface. New No. 2 front lower suspension arm bolts are now available to address this condition."

The current bolt part number per the TSB is: 90119-14151

It also mentions that some bolts may have and orange dot on the head and those that do are non-reusable, where ones without the orange dot can be removed and retorqued.

Earlier posts of yours (IIRC) indicated that the old part number ended in 126 (for 2006-2009?) and the other part number (not ending in 151) = for 2010+....and that 151 replaces both part numbers so that the full range = one part number rather than two. When I visited the dealer, the parts rep indicated = exactly as you described (however that was ).

The tech today (at the shop, not the Toyota dealer) had some other reference nomenclature for this bolt, so I just logged on and showed the manager the picture of the bottom of your Yaris with the red circles you put around the two bolt locations. So clear. The manager was then able to easily communicate this to the tech .

I remember noticing, when I picked up the new bolts at the dealer, a 'raised stamp' (forgive the Layman's term ) that I assumed indicated that they each = a 'No. 2'.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by nookandcrannycar

Earlier posts of yours (IIRC) indicated that the old part number ended in 126 (for 2006-2009?) and the other part number (not ending in 151) = for 2010+....and that 151 replaces both part numbers so that the full range = one part number rather than two. When I visited the dealer, the parts rep indicated = exactly as you described (however that was ).

The tech today (at the shop, not the Toyota dealer) had some other reference nomenclature for this bolt, so I just logged on and showed the manager the picture of the bottom of your Yaris with the red circles you put around the two bolt locations. So clear. The manager was then able to easily communicate this to the tech .

I remember noticing, when I picked up the new bolts at the dealer, a 'raised stamp' (forgive the Layman's term ) that I assumed indicated that they each = a 'No. 2'.

The 90119-14151 part number is all inclusive for 07-12 liftbacks and sedans.

The raised markings on the head actually indicate the grade (strength) of the bolt. The "No. 2" is just the name of the bolts relative to their position.