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Old 01-07-2014, 04:51 PM   #37
yakovenkooleg
 
Drives: 2008 yaris 3dr hatch
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no. the parts car was hit in the back so no airbags or belts went off..the car ran fine and the light functioned normal before i took it apart. the builder that i am having issues with was hit in front and the drivers airbag poped and drivers seat belt went off too.
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:10 PM   #38
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the thing is tho..code 73 comes up for all for DTC codes ( B1900, B1901, B1902 and B1903) so if its an open circuit or a shorting in the circuit it will still be code 73 until u scan it with a scanner and pull out actual B code. at first when i fixed the car< i didn't know that the belt went off so i just replaced the drivers bag and went to the dealer to get the light shut off.. he told me that there is a cod B1901/73, which is a open in a circuit, so then i replaced the belt, the B1901 was cleared but B1900 is now appearing. i am just wondering back when i had the B1901 code, why did the computer showed only this code, but didnt show the B1900?
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:09 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by yakovenkooleg View Post
the thing is tho..code 73 comes up for all for DTC codes ( B1900, B1901, B1902 and B1903) so if its an open circuit or a shorting in the circuit it will still be code 73 until u scan it with a scanner and pull out actual B code. at first when i fixed the car< i didn't know that the belt went off so i just replaced the drivers bag and went to the dealer to get the light shut off.. he told me that there is a cod B1901/73, which is a open in a circuit, so then i replaced the belt, the B1901 was cleared but B1900 is now appearing. i am just wondering back when i had the B1901 code, why did the computer showed only this code, but didnt show the B1900?
TechStream definitely helps for being able to differentiate the sub codes. I worked on a rebuilt Tundra for a friend of mine, where he was having a pretensioner issue and it still remained opened as a 73 after he replaced the seatbelt. I scanned it with my Techstream and the code was a 1900. We found that the insulation on the pretensioner wires melted a bit (a couple of inches from the connector) and then with him moving the cable to unplug and replug the pretensioner the wires moved to where the exposed copper of the two wires was making contact.
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Old 01-08-2014, 03:17 PM   #40
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Wires look good on mine!
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:23 PM   #41
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OK. I finally had a chance to snap some pics of what I want you to try with your meter. You will want to do this testing with the ignition off (and ideally with the negative battery terminal disconnected for safety). With the SRS ECU side there is a safety mechanism in the connector which shorts the two pins going to each squib together when the connector is unplugged, so you will do the testing with the SRS ECU connector plugged in and the Pretensioner connectors unplugged.

On the SRS ECU you are interested in the two sets of two wires that are circled here. The two on the right go to the left pretensioner and the two on the left go to the right prestensioner.
SRS ECU Connector-marked.jpg

If you probes are large, you will need a small piece of wire to stick into the pretensioner connector hole being tested:
PT connectors.jpg

For both sides you will need to test the yellow wire and the yellow/black wire separately.

Here you can see that with no connection my meter shows "OL":
No Connection.jpg


1. First test from one end of the wire to the other and you should see close to zero ohms:
Good Wire.jpg

2. Next test between the yellow and the yellow black wire and you should see a high resistance (in my case 3.75 M ohms):
Other wire.jpg

3. Next test between the yellow wire and ground and then between the yellow/black wire and ground and you should see a relatively high resistance (in my case 2865 Ohms):
Ground.jpg


Try the above for each of the two wires on both sides.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:44 PM   #42
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ok for the first step where i measured from one end to another on all 4 wires i was getting 00.2 ohms when my ohmmeter was set at 200
second step where i was measuring between yellow and yellow/black i was betting OL on all 4 wires. that's probably because my ohmmeter goes up only to 2M ohms.
third step where i would measure wires from seat-belt connector to the ground i was getting a 3.13 ohms on yellow wire only (for both sides) when my ohmmeter was set at 20K , but nothing for yellow/ black wire. just kept getting OL on all settings of the ohmmeter.
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:36 AM   #43
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ok for the first step where i measured from one end to another on all 4 wires i was getting 00.2 ohms when my ohmmeter was set at 200
second step where i was measuring between yellow and yellow/black i was betting OL on all 4 wires. that's probably because my ohmmeter goes up only to 2M ohms.
third step where i would measure wires from seat-belt connector to the ground i was getting a 3.13 ohms on yellow wire only (for both sides) when my ohmmeter was set at 20K , but nothing for yellow/ black wire. just kept getting OL on all settings of the ohmmeter.
OK. That is all correct. On the yellow/black to ground I see over 3 M Ohm where the yellow to ground is in the 3 K Ohm range.

Can you get your hands on two 3 ohm resistors (any wattage is fine)? I would like you to stick the 3 ohm resistor into the pretentsioner connector on both sides to see if bypassing the pretensioners makes a difference. I know you have tried multiple different pretensioners, but the resistors will give us an easy absolute test.
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:45 PM   #44
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would a 2.2 resistor do it?
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Old 01-09-2014, 01:53 PM   #45
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would a 2.2 resistor do it?
Yes 2.2 ohms would be fine.
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:44 PM   #46
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ok...narrowed it down a little bit. when i put a resistors in both connections it did the trick, the light went off without even clearing the code!! (good news) than i began doing them separately! hooked up a seat-belt right (passenger side) but left the resistor in the left side (drivers side) seat-belt connector, again, the light goes off! hooking up the left side (drivers) connector to a seat-belt, light remains on! what could that possibly be? seat-belt should be good because when i test that seat belt on the right (passenger) side it works, but doesn't work on the left (drivers side)
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Old 01-09-2014, 06:12 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by yakovenkooleg View Post
ok...narrowed it down a little bit. when i put a resistors in both connections it did the trick, the light went off without even clearing the code!! (good news) than i began doing them separately! hooked up a seat-belt right (passenger side) but left the resistor in the left side (drivers side) seat-belt connector, again, the light goes off! hooking up the left side (drivers) connector to a seat-belt, light remains on! what could that possibly be? seat-belt should be good because when i test that seat belt on the right (passenger) side it works, but doesn't work on the left (drivers side)
That is very strange that it works on one side but not the other. It may be that the harness connector is damaged to where the resistor can make contact with the pretensioner pins, but the pt pins can not.
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:44 PM   #48
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it is strange, because when i measure the seat belt, i am getting 2.3 ohms of resistance on it, same as the resistor that i am using!
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:40 PM   #49
Rodger Wilco
 
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Hey guys I have a similar code on my 2010 Yaris maybe you can help. The code reads: B1901 Open in P/T Squib(RH) Circuit.

Also, the diagnostic computer tester thing I used I had borrowed from a friend and it only had the option for a 2007-2009 Yaris, it did not have database for 2010, I am wondering how much of a difference that would make?

Where do I go from here besides a dealer? I am resolved to fix this thing without spending $$$ at the dealership.

Thanks!
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:13 PM   #50
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Hey guys I have a similar code on my 2010 Yaris maybe you can help. The code reads: B1901 Open in P/T Squib(RH) Circuit.

Also, the diagnostic computer tester thing I used I had borrowed from a friend and it only had the option for a 2007-2009 Yaris, it did not have database for 2010, I am wondering how much of a difference that would make?

Where do I go from here besides a dealer? I am resolved to fix this thing without spending $$$ at the dealership.

Thanks!
Was your Yaris in a crash? The B1901 code signifies that the driver's side squib is open (which typically means that it popped in a crash). You can verify that by pulling the B pillar lower cover and checking the rectangular block on the side of the seatbelt assembly. If you see orange through the little holes, then it did pop and will need to be replaced.

As far as the year part goes, 2006-2011 are identical as far as SRS codes go.
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:29 PM   #51
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Was your Yaris in a crash? The B1901 code signifies that the driver's side squib is open (which typically means that it popped in a crash). You can verify that by pulling the B pillar lower cover and checking the rectangular block on the side of the seatbelt assembly. If you see orange through the little holes, then it did pop and will need to be replaced.

As far as the year part goes, 2006-2011 are identical as far as SRS codes go.
Yes it was in a crash but a very minor one. Only the front bumper/crumple zone was damaged. That is why I got such a killer deal on it. I will pull the cover off and report what I find.

Thanks!
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