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01-07-2014, 04:51 PM | #37 |
Drives: 2008 yaris 3dr hatch Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: wi
Posts: 47
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no. the parts car was hit in the back so no airbags or belts went off..the car ran fine and the light functioned normal before i took it apart. the builder that i am having issues with was hit in front and the drivers airbag poped and drivers seat belt went off too.
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01-07-2014, 05:10 PM | #38 |
Drives: 2008 yaris 3dr hatch Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: wi
Posts: 47
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the thing is tho..code 73 comes up for all for DTC codes ( B1900, B1901, B1902 and B1903) so if its an open circuit or a shorting in the circuit it will still be code 73 until u scan it with a scanner and pull out actual B code. at first when i fixed the car< i didn't know that the belt went off so i just replaced the drivers bag and went to the dealer to get the light shut off.. he told me that there is a cod B1901/73, which is a open in a circuit, so then i replaced the belt, the B1901 was cleared but B1900 is now appearing. i am just wondering back when i had the B1901 code, why did the computer showed only this code, but didnt show the B1900?
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01-07-2014, 08:09 PM | #39 | |
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Quote:
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01-08-2014, 03:17 PM | #40 |
Drives: 2008 yaris 3dr hatch Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: wi
Posts: 47
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Wires look good on mine!
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01-08-2014, 10:23 PM | #41 |
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OK. I finally had a chance to snap some pics of what I want you to try with your meter. You will want to do this testing with the ignition off (and ideally with the negative battery terminal disconnected for safety). With the SRS ECU side there is a safety mechanism in the connector which shorts the two pins going to each squib together when the connector is unplugged, so you will do the testing with the SRS ECU connector plugged in and the Pretensioner connectors unplugged.
On the SRS ECU you are interested in the two sets of two wires that are circled here. The two on the right go to the left pretensioner and the two on the left go to the right prestensioner. SRS ECU Connector-marked.jpg If you probes are large, you will need a small piece of wire to stick into the pretensioner connector hole being tested: PT connectors.jpg For both sides you will need to test the yellow wire and the yellow/black wire separately. Here you can see that with no connection my meter shows "OL": No Connection.jpg 1. First test from one end of the wire to the other and you should see close to zero ohms: Good Wire.jpg 2. Next test between the yellow and the yellow black wire and you should see a high resistance (in my case 3.75 M ohms): Other wire.jpg 3. Next test between the yellow wire and ground and then between the yellow/black wire and ground and you should see a relatively high resistance (in my case 2865 Ohms): Ground.jpg Try the above for each of the two wires on both sides.
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01-08-2014, 11:44 PM | #42 |
Drives: 2008 yaris 3dr hatch Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: wi
Posts: 47
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ok for the first step where i measured from one end to another on all 4 wires i was getting 00.2 ohms when my ohmmeter was set at 200
second step where i was measuring between yellow and yellow/black i was betting OL on all 4 wires. that's probably because my ohmmeter goes up only to 2M ohms. third step where i would measure wires from seat-belt connector to the ground i was getting a 3.13 ohms on yellow wire only (for both sides) when my ohmmeter was set at 20K , but nothing for yellow/ black wire. just kept getting OL on all settings of the ohmmeter. |
01-09-2014, 08:36 AM | #43 | |
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Quote:
Can you get your hands on two 3 ohm resistors (any wattage is fine)? I would like you to stick the 3 ohm resistor into the pretentsioner connector on both sides to see if bypassing the pretensioners makes a difference. I know you have tried multiple different pretensioners, but the resistors will give us an easy absolute test.
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01-09-2014, 12:45 PM | #44 |
Drives: 2008 yaris 3dr hatch Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: wi
Posts: 47
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would a 2.2 resistor do it?
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01-09-2014, 01:53 PM | #45 |
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01-09-2014, 04:44 PM | #46 |
Drives: 2008 yaris 3dr hatch Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: wi
Posts: 47
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ok...narrowed it down a little bit. when i put a resistors in both connections it did the trick, the light went off without even clearing the code!! (good news) than i began doing them separately! hooked up a seat-belt right (passenger side) but left the resistor in the left side (drivers side) seat-belt connector, again, the light goes off! hooking up the left side (drivers) connector to a seat-belt, light remains on! what could that possibly be? seat-belt should be good because when i test that seat belt on the right (passenger) side it works, but doesn't work on the left (drivers side)
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01-09-2014, 06:12 PM | #47 | |
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01-09-2014, 07:44 PM | #48 |
Drives: 2008 yaris 3dr hatch Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: wi
Posts: 47
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it is strange, because when i measure the seat belt, i am getting 2.3 ohms of resistance on it, same as the resistor that i am using!
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01-10-2014, 12:40 PM | #49 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: PHX
Posts: 10
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Hey guys I have a similar code on my 2010 Yaris maybe you can help. The code reads: B1901 Open in P/T Squib(RH) Circuit.
Also, the diagnostic computer tester thing I used I had borrowed from a friend and it only had the option for a 2007-2009 Yaris, it did not have database for 2010, I am wondering how much of a difference that would make? Where do I go from here besides a dealer? I am resolved to fix this thing without spending $$$ at the dealership. Thanks! |
01-10-2014, 01:13 PM | #50 | |
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As far as the year part goes, 2006-2011 are identical as far as SRS codes go.
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01-11-2014, 07:29 PM | #51 | |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: PHX
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Thanks! |
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