STF posts - Page 17 - Toyota Yaris Forums

justjesus · 03-08-2013, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJ Drive

Still on Tokico HTS but with custom springs and Cusco tops.

tops? as in the front upper strut mounts?

NJ Drive · 03-08-2013, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justjesus

tops? as in the front upper strut mounts?

Yes.

xnamerxx · 03-08-2013, 09:47 PM

I just read your blog and I'm liking the custom bushing you've made for the engine/transmission. How bad if the vibration in the car? With my shore 60a poly tranny mount the vibration is pretty awful when the AC is on.

Also how are you liking the Cusco uppers, I've been on the fence about buying them but I'm having a hard time in deciding if they're actually worth the money or not.

NJ Drive · 03-08-2013, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

I just read your blog and I'm liking the custom bushing you've made for the engine/transmission. How bad if the vibration in the car? With my shore 60a poly tranny mount the vibration is pretty awful when the AC is on.

Also how are you liking the Cusco uppers, I've been on the fence about buying them but I'm having a hard time in deciding if they're actually worth the money or not.

Thanks!

Since I did all the mounts at the same time, I cannot comment on individual NVH issues. With all three done though(including an all-steel custom passenger mount), it is horrendous, lol. I've had 95A mounts in my STR S2000 CR and these are 5x worse.

In retrospect, I would have just done the lower pitch mount and call it a day, but there are side benefits to locking everything down.

First is the braking... it just stops way better while in gear. Secondly, the front end just seems to respond to harsh steering inputs better. Lastly, wheel hop has been reduced but still present. I plan on removing the pitch mount again to also replace the front bushing with Delrin.

I've only driven a couple days with the Cusco tops and haven't really been aggressive enough to offer a performance opinion. I'll tell you that they're worth the money just to be able to change shocks out in five minutes and springs in ten!

I would like to get the control arm bushings in tomorrow to see if that kills the wheel hop for good.

xnamerxx · 03-08-2013, 11:25 PM

Hmm guess the Cuscos on the short list after I get my new springs in.

Also on another note with your custom springs, do you still have spring travel in full droop are are you holding the springs in place with zip ties or something like that? If its the zip tie solution, I found a way a better way to handle it by using steel rope and steel tabs bolted to the frame rails. There is a open bolt hole on the frame that uses an M10x1 bolt that was almost directly in line with the second hole for the RSB. Its not the best way to deal with it but it works without having to get the shocks shortened.

NJ Drive · 03-08-2013, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

Hmm guess the Cuscos on the short list after I get my new springs in.

I found a way a better way to handle it by using steel rope and steel tabs bolted to the frame rails.

Brilliant minds think alike- I was considering doing this very thing. Thanks for sharing.

NJ Drive · 03-17-2013, 09:06 PM

For curiosity's sake, here is a cutaway of my stock front sway bar.
5.5mm wall thickness, 24.5mm diameter.

xnamerxx · 03-17-2013, 09:41 PM

So the front bar is hollow after all I'm guessing.

CrankyOldMan · 03-24-2013, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

So the front bar is hollow after all I'm guessing.

For torsion, the center of the bar contributes very little to the effective stiffness. Hollowing out the bar results in more weight savings than lost torsion.

xnamerxx · 04-01-2013, 11:25 PM

So after my terrible defeat at the hands of a Mini this weekend, I decided to follow their lead and adjust the toe on the rear of the car just to see what happens.

Well holy cow what a difference low speed turn in is so much better, but man it sucks to drive on the street so twitchy.

ilikerice · 04-02-2013, 03:08 AM

how much toe did you do?

xnamerxx · 04-02-2013, 10:25 AM

0 or as close to it as I could get.

I used 2 .05" washers and grinded down one side to be flat.

I test drove the car some more, and it really requires quite a bit less steering input to turn.

ilikerice · 04-02-2013, 02:04 PM

Interesting..

xnamerxx · 04-02-2013, 04:39 PM

For anyone who was wondering Rival vs Toyo in width.
And you can see my severely overheated Toyos in the picture.

Jason@SportsCar · 04-02-2013, 04:57 PM

You are not getting very even tire wear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

For anyone who was wondering Rival vs Toyo in width.
And you can see my severely overheated Toyos in the picture.

xnamerxx · 04-02-2013, 05:03 PM

Yep, really really bad shoulder wear...even with -3.5 camber. I do think most of it is from me over driving the car though.

I talked to Andy Hollis about that at Nationals last year, since the same thing was happening to him. I don't think I could ever get enough static camber to make these tires work to the fullest.

racerb · 04-02-2013, 09:03 PM

Thats the one issue I always had with Solo, no real time to dial in camber, toe, tire temps, and pressures. The only Toyos I've ever ran are the RA-1s on road race cars, as for auto-x it's been BFG Comp T/As, Bridgestone RE-11s, Yokohama A001Rs and Falken Azenis 215s. I know kinda shows how long ago I ran alot, but judging by what I've seen lately the new Rival looks very strong! If you can get advice from Andy Hollis, take it as gospel, he and his wife Ann were already top competitors in '84 when I ran at the Solo II Nationals in Salina Kansas. One thing I have learned through lots of trial and error is to slow down and go faster, best way is to slow your hands down while limiting your steering inputs. Good luck with your car, I'll be working on the STF set-up on my Yaris this season as well.

racerb

xnamerxx · 04-03-2013, 10:43 AM

So to add onto the rear toe change, I'm not sure if I'm crazy or not but I'm having a much more difficult time to induce inside spin.
It seems that having less steering input also helps in reducing inside spin which makes sense but I didn't expect this drastic of a change, on my test route I found I was able to get on the gas way way sooner than I normally would while still being able to keep the car pointed where I wanted too.

Not sure if this will pan out during a race but it certainly was surprising, in a good way, driving around.

04-02-2013, 03:08 AM	#299
ilikerice Drives: 2010 black yaris Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: savannah, ga Posts: 2,868	how much toe did you do? __________________ -Derrick- "Racing is important to men who do it well. When you're racing... It's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting."

04-02-2013, 02:04 PM	#301
ilikerice Drives: 2010 black yaris Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: savannah, ga Posts: 2,868	Interesting.. __________________ -Derrick- "Racing is important to men who do it well. When you're racing... It's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting."

04-02-2013, 09:03 PM	#305
racerb View User's Garage Drives: 2010 Yaris HB Blazin' Blue Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Leland, NC Posts: 444	Thats the one issue I always had with Solo, no real time to dial in camber, toe, tire temps, and pressures. The only Toyos I've ever ran are the RA-1s on road race cars, as for auto-x it's been BFG Comp T/As, Bridgestone RE-11s, Yokohama A001Rs and Falken Azenis 215s. I know kinda shows how long ago I ran alot, but judging by what I've seen lately the new Rival looks very strong! If you can get advice from Andy Hollis, take it as gospel, he and his wife Ann were already top competitors in '84 when I ran at the Solo II Nationals in Salina Kansas. One thing I have learned through lots of trial and error is to slow down and go faster, best way is to slow your hands down while limiting your steering inputs. Good luck with your car, I'll be working on the STF set-up on my Yaris this season as well. racerb __________________ racerb '86 Celica GT '87 Celica GT-S '98 Rav4L '01 Tundra SR5

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03-08-2013, 09:47 PM	#291
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	I just read your blog and I'm liking the custom bushing you've made for the engine/transmission. How bad if the vibration in the car? With my shore 60a poly tranny mount the vibration is pretty awful when the AC is on. Also how are you liking the Cusco uppers, I've been on the fence about buying them but I'm having a hard time in deciding if they're actually worth the money or not.

03-08-2013, 11:25 PM	#293
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Hmm guess the Cuscos on the short list after I get my new springs in. Also on another note with your custom springs, do you still have spring travel in full droop are are you holding the springs in place with zip ties or something like that? If its the zip tie solution, I found a way a better way to handle it by using steel rope and steel tabs bolted to the frame rails. There is a open bolt hole on the frame that uses an M10x1 bolt that was almost directly in line with the second hole for the RSB. Its not the best way to deal with it but it works without having to get the shocks shortened.

03-17-2013, 09:06 PM	#295
NJ Drive Drives: 2012 Yaris SE Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 179	For curiosity's sake, here is a cutaway of my stock front sway bar. 5.5mm wall thickness, 24.5mm diameter.

03-17-2013, 09:41 PM	#296
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	So the front bar is hollow after all I'm guessing.

04-01-2013, 11:25 PM	#298
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	So after my terrible defeat at the hands of a Mini this weekend, I decided to follow their lead and adjust the toe on the rear of the car just to see what happens. Well holy cow what a difference low speed turn in is so much better, but man it sucks to drive on the street so twitchy.

04-02-2013, 10:25 AM	#300
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	0 or as close to it as I could get. I used 2 .05" washers and grinded down one side to be flat. I test drove the car some more, and it really requires quite a bit less steering input to turn.

04-02-2013, 04:39 PM	#302
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	For anyone who was wondering Rival vs Toyo in width. And you can see my severely overheated Toyos in the picture.

04-02-2013, 05:03 PM	#304
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Yep, really really bad shoulder wear...even with -3.5 camber. I do think most of it is from me over driving the car though. I talked to Andy Hollis about that at Nationals last year, since the same thing was happening to him. I don't think I could ever get enough static camber to make these tires work to the fullest.

04-03-2013, 10:43 AM	#306
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	So to add onto the rear toe change, I'm not sure if I'm crazy or not but I'm having a much more difficult time to induce inside spin. It seems that having less steering input also helps in reducing inside spin which makes sense but I didn't expect this drastic of a change, on my test route I found I was able to get on the gas way way sooner than I normally would while still being able to keep the car pointed where I wanted too. Not sure if this will pan out during a race but it certainly was surprising, in a good way, driving around.