When should I start using synthetic oil??

[bronsin]

Originally Posted by 1stToyota

Snake oil implies that it's not a good product. Synthetic might not be needed in most makes, but testing often shows that it's a superior product. Hershey chocolate will do the job just fine, but I'd much prefer to pay the extra to get the better Dove dark.

Synthetic oil was delveoped for use in jet (gas turbine) engines where operating temperatures exceed 400 degrees F. Since internal combustion engine temperatures are less than 200 degrees F synthetic oil is not needed. Marketing types saw the need people have for "something better" than the next guy and started the hype.

[nsmitchell]

Originally Posted by 1stToyota

Snake oil implies that it's not a good product. Synthetic might not be needed in most makes, but testing often shows that it's a superior product. Hershey chocolate will do the job just fine, but I'd much prefer to pay the extra to get the better Dove dark.

Hersheys is fine chocolate! Much better than that fake Dove crap! hehe Just kidding! Seriously though, Hersheys is very good chocolate and so is Dove! Synthetic is good oil and so are some conventional oils. Castrol GTX for example is great conventional oil. The additives are what makes it good. Turbo's with super high heat will cook conventional oils and turn them to "coke". Turbo's pretty much require synthetic, if only to help you sleep at night. Some folks are reporting MPG gains after switching to synthetic.

Snake Oil it is not.

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by bronsin

Synthetic oil was delveoped for use in jet (gas turbine) engines where operating temperatures exceed 400 degrees F. Since internal combustion engine temperatures are less than 200 degrees F synthetic oil is not needed. Marketing types saw the need people have for "something better" than the next guy and started the hype.

If it's not needed in cars, just jets, a UOA result will be no better than dino, always, because it's just hype and an overkill to use synthetic...or it does provides better protection and will almost win in a UAO showdown...

[UTVitz]

I tried Valvoline Synthetic in my '08 Yaris for a month-it did not like it one bit. From a noticably noisier engine to a significant drop in my MPG (I always run in the 40's with it till I tried synthetic and it droped into the high 30's for the entire time the oil was in it). I went back to conventional valvoline after a month and suddenly the engine seemed more dampened in operating noise and my MPG went right back up to 43. This is only my experience with it and I've read a few others that noticed this same effect with their Yaris.

[nsmitchell]

Originally Posted by UTVitz

I tried Valvoline Synthetic in my '08 Yaris for a month-it did not like it one bit. From a noticably noisier engine to a significant drop in my MPG (I always run in the 40's with it till I tried synthetic and it droped into the high 30's for the entire time the oil was in it). I went back to conventional valvoline after a month and suddenly the engine seemed more dampened in operating noise and my MPG went right back up to 43. This is only my experience with it and I've read a few others that noticed this same effect with their Yaris.

Interesting... I may switch to Valvoline Conventional and see what happens with my MPGs. I'm getting mid 30s now in the city, and about 38 on the hwy.

[1stToyota]

I used factory fill, ENEOS semi-synthetic, Amsoil HP, now PP full synthetic, all 5w-30, and engine had a little bit less noise with each oil change.

[PatrickJohnson]

Originally Posted by supmet

Interesting theory, but I wonder why it is illegal for mechanics to recommend engine or transmission fluid changes based on fluid color.

it isn't...

they do it all the time.

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

The synthetic oil in the US is "fake" so just keep running your favorite "conventional" API SM oil and you're good to go. The Syntheics here are at most semi-synthetics and have marginal improvements in cold viscosity and sludge generation and cleaning. The Two Top picks in a premium oil would be: Penzoil Platinum, and, Mobil-1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 - a much better oil than regular Mobil-1 5w-30. If you want to spend 8-10 bucks a litre then you can step up to "real" synthetic from Europe which would be: Motul, Total, Fuchs, Pentosin - just be prepared to purchase online. Your oil filter choice is MORE important; ditch that cheap Thailand Toyota filter F-A-S-T and get a Purolator pure one or Mobil-1 or Bosch.

I could not DISAGREE MORE.

There are MANY true fully synthetic oils sold in the USA, and made in the USA.

Don't you realized that even with the "inferior" US sold synthetics, your Yaris will still last 300,000+ miles?

And there is nothing wrong with the Toyota filters for the Yaris.

You constantly vomit wrong information.

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by 1stToyota

If it's not needed in cars, just jets, a UOA result will be no better than dino, always, because it's just hype and an overkill to use synthetic...or it does provides better protection and will almost win in a UAO showdown...

You are forgetting one fact:

Synthetic will allow you to go LONGER between oil changes then conventional, and that is reason alone to use it. It can also provide 1% to 2% higher MPG too.

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by UTVitz

I tried Valvoline Synthetic in my '08 Yaris for a month-it did not like it one bit. From a noticably noisier engine to a significant drop in my MPG (I always run in the 40's with it till I tried synthetic and it droped into the high 30's for the entire time the oil was in it). I went back to conventional valvoline after a month and suddenly the engine seemed more dampened in operating noise and my MPG went right back up to 43. This is only my experience with it and I've read a few others that noticed this same effect with their Yaris.

Hmmm, when I used Valvoline Syn my MPG went up 1.5 MPG over using conventional Valvoline, both at 5w-30.

I think your change in MPG is caused by some other reason. The difference in MPG between ANY oil brand is 2% or less. The increase in MPG when using the "best" synthetics is just 1% to 2% over ANY conventional.

[marcus]

sorry had to disagree... synthetic did not give me better mileage it actually dropped my mpg ..I use to get 580-590 average on 36 liters now im getting 540-560km...go figure .same driving habits same temperature..

oh yah 5w-20 same as stock.

unless you go for 0w-20 then mpg will definetely increase..

[auxmike]

After reading a few of the comments here I do indeed feel like my engine is actually quieter now that I've gone back to conventional oil.
I don't see any reason why my engine could'nt go 300k too.

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

You are forgetting one fact:

Synthetic will allow you to go LONGER between oil changes then conventional, and that is reason alone to use it. It can also provide 1% to 2% higher MPG too.

I use it because there's the chance that it's a superior, not an inferior product, period. And while I'm depending on Toyota to cover any warranty issues I'll follow the 5k OCI, no matter what oil I use.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

I could not DISAGREE MORE.

There are MANY true fully synthetic oils sold in the USA, and made in the USA.

You constantly vomit wrong information.

Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 is not synthetic,
from the Valvoline website:

MYTH: There is not any real difference between conventional and synthetic motor oil.
REALITY: There are not any real differences in the basestocks used to make synthetic and conventional oils, but there are differences in the additives and process used to make the final products.

Continuing:
Castrol Syntec 5W-30 is not synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 is not synthetic. Royal Purple street oil is NOT synthetic.

- Alternatively: Motul 300v is grpV synthetic, Total Quartz Future 9000 is Grp iv/v synthetic, Fuchs Silkoline is grp V synthetic. Redline is synthetic. Some Amsoil products are synthetic, but mainly group iv which is inferior PAO base. PAO is not a good lubricant, though its a good additisation carrier and works welll when blended with group V base stocks.

Mobil1 4t racing is full synthetic and 9 bucks a quart.

I'm not saying the USA sold "synthetics" are bad oils, just why pay the cost and not get the benefits of a REAL synthetic? You want a USA synthetic-beating oil for cheap, buy Rotella-T CJ4/Sm 10w-30. ABout 3 bucks a qt in gallon jugs. Too thick for a Yaris, IMO.

Filters: The Toyota Denso Thailand filters have NEVER worked for me, across multiple trials and vehicles, and thats all that matters to me. I just want enthusiasts to be aware that I have encountered problems and this might help them solve their problem. The WIX #51396 have worked well and are recommended.

As for vomiting incorrect info, I'll leave that to you.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Originally Posted by nsmitchell

Interesting... I may switch to Valvoline Conventional and see what happens with my MPGs. I'm getting mid 30s now in the city, and about 38 on the hwy.

Valvoline Synpower 10W-30 did not work for me at all either; Something really WRONG with that oil. Saw big power and mileage hit too.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Originally Posted by nsmitchell

Castrol GTX for example is great conventional oil. The additives are what makes it good.
Snake Oil it is not.

Recently Ive seen that Castrol GTX has one of the WEAKER additive packages. Mobil Clean 5000 and Formula Shell are two of the better conventionals, GTX is down the list. Look at VOA and UOA on BITOG for the facts. Formulas are changing all the time. Many users reported that Exxon-Mobil M-clean is better than M1 for normal interval OC.

[Black Yaris]

AMSoil..... that is all I have to say

[Sodium Duck]

Just did my second oil change today. I now have about 13K miles on the Yaris. I switched at about 4K miles -- just felt like it. I use Amsoil 5W-20, and change it every 7,500K miles.

Wow, my car didn't blow up and the earth didn't stop turning. To the OP, just do whatever you want.