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Old 03-27-2010, 04:38 PM   #73
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Well done! it looks very professional.
btw, you didn't cover your speakers,did you? ;)

Quote:
Originally Posted by derickveliz2 View Post
.
The first picture shows my template and the trim panel.

2nd picture shows door with vapor barrier ready to mount the Vinyl.

3rd picture Vinyl on door (I used 2 Industrial Strength Velcros to hold it in place and play around for adjustments).

4th picture shows a layer of 1/8 Foam on top of the Vinyl (no way I could get 1/4 Foam in there everything is so tight, I also added some little pieces of 1/8 Foam under the Vinyl against the wires, just in case)

And the last photo shows the trim panel and you see those pieces of foam that come in the panel? I had to shave them, I actually shave them even more after a few adjustments.

The trim panel snapped really nice, the difference is like Black and White, I wish there was a way for me to show you guys how good it is.

I bet my wife is going to ask me to do the same to her car! Jeje.



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Old 03-28-2010, 12:02 AM   #74
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Quote:
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Well done! it looks very professional.
btw, you didn't cover your speakers,did you? ;)
Thanks a lot, we'll try keep up the good work.

Don't worry my Sedan's rear doors have no speakers, (I didn't cover them).
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:31 PM   #75
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There it is! We have documented proof that deadening works. We all know it does...but now there's a graphical representation.
.



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File Type: jpg chartsngraphs.jpg (99.0 KB, 1221 views)
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Old 03-29-2010, 01:53 PM   #76
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Does it have a scale so you can say "I lowered my door slamming sound 6 decibel"?
Not slamming of the doors...

But knocking on the doors there is a good 3db in between the treated and untreated door.

I hope this helps I'm not an acoustical engineering but this is how I read the graphic adding a scale with db. What I can assure you is that now the treated door feels like a Luxury car, it's a very nice feeling. I can't wait to do the other 3 doors.

I didn't do anything over the weekend, I spent most of my time with family doing the garden


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Old 03-29-2010, 04:32 PM   #77
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Help!

I'm a Taco-Yaris and I still have most of electronics that I had in my Tacoma, but since I can't install my fancy receiver...

I would like to know and this goes to all the gurus out there... what kind of "electronic" (Factory Sound Processor) should or would I need to plug in my set up, since my radio has no RCA output I have to get some thing to connect my Eq and amps, "what would you recommend me", my radio is going to be the OEM and I have:

Poineer EQ-6500 LINK
9-band equalizer includes a crossover network and a subwoofer output


Premier amp for Front and Rear speakers: GM-X1024 LINK
4 ch: (4 Ohm) 65Wx4

Premier amp for Subwoofer: PRS-X720 LINK
1 ch: (4 Ohm) 400Wx1

Thank you.
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:42 PM   #78
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unless that EQ has high level inputs you'll need a LOC to convert a high voltage signal to a low voltage signal. There are many out there... SQ swears by one by MTX/Scoshe, RF, JL, AudioControl also make units.... and then some of the cheaper companies make them too... some amps have them built in... and there is a dude named Navone who make and sells them online (his are supposed to be top notch).

The dual 8's you see in the pic on my sig are actually connected to an amp which has a built in LOC, and then connected to the stock deck... I dislike the setup.. its not as natural as just having a real deck installed... but it's the best I can currently have without doing a ton of work, that I just don't have the time/money/tools or shop for right now.
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Old 03-29-2010, 11:42 PM   #79
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So do you think something like these would work OK?

"Speaker Level Converter w/ 80 watt max"








.or MTX re-Q5






.or JL Audio CL441dsp CleanSweep


.



.
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Old 03-30-2010, 12:01 AM   #80
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I've used the ReQ with great success. I do have one of Navone's LOCs hanging around too...I've never had the need to use it.

The ReQ a no nonsense piece that costs a good bit less than the Clean Sweep.
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:27 PM   #81
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So I guess one option is to replace the EQ-6500 with MTX re-Q5...





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Old 03-31-2010, 05:34 PM   #82
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Do I really need this:

.

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Old 03-31-2010, 08:59 PM   #83
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It's your personal preference on caps, some people will say they're worthless other will swear by them. How big of an amp do you plan on running ? If you look around hard enough you can get a Kinetic 600 car battery for under 100 bucks. Deff upgrade your battery cables in the front " big 3 Upgrade " If you're scared to do the whole upgrade, the ground connections aren't hard at all and will make a fairly decent and noticeable impact. You can probably find the pieces of wire you need fairly cheap, they say to go with 0 Gauge, a good quality 4 gauge will get the job done.
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:28 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _S7V7N_ View Post
How big of an amp do you plan on running ? Deff upgrade your battery cables in the front " big 3 Upgrade "
For speakers:
GM-X1024 65Wx4


For Woofer(s):
PRS-X720 400Wx1


Where can I find more information about "Big 3 Upgrade"?

Thank you,

D.
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:52 AM   #85
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Video tutorial







or you can go here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzCr-lc
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Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch
Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4
(2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:55 AM   #86
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Quote:
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Video tutorial
Where do I get this stuff, are there any kits available?

Thanks
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:58 AM   #87
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I'm sorry for all my naive questions... I'm learning every day something new.

In other hand I'm trying to kill time so sqcomp comes back to the US and continues on his installation, and then I can learn even more!

Thanks
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:13 PM   #88
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Dude you can make your own with some wire and some ring terminals, The only thing that may be hard to find is a fuse holder. And bro i'm learning as well.
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Old 04-01-2010, 02:23 PM   #89
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As far as the " Big 3" is concerned check with your local stereo shop. We keep boxes of scrap wire and I always give away small pieces for free. Then you can just buy the ring terminals and be done. As far as capacitors go I am not a big fan.My last big system had a JL 1000/1 and JL 450/4 and had no cap just an Optima red top battery and 1/0 power wire and the big 3 done. If your electrical system is starving a cap will feed your amplifier(s) but the rest of your car is still straining. Spend the money and get a good battery that will feed the whole car. You don't need a JL Clean sweep or MTX re-q etc. if you are using the Pioneer eq. You just need a basic line output converter. A $20 will do just fine.
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Old 04-01-2010, 02:48 PM   #90
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Hey Palmer...

Are you forgeting something about the factory source? What about the factory EQ settings coming from the source that kills the bass at higher volume levels. The ReQ solves that issue without a more expensive in dash EQ that STILL needs the LOC to work.

Keep it simple, the ReQ is the most simple out of the choices.

I base this on my own experience most recently with a Tacoma. I put a system in my wife's Tacoma over Christmas R&R at the shop. She kept the factory source, we used a ReQ, and fed that into an ASA 700.5 amplifier. Simple. No need for an outboard EQ. This ReQ was very plug and play.

Also, I'm thinking that you can probably use the smaller ReQ. Just pass the lows out to the sub amp...

That should also save some more money as well.

Another note, The cap will feed the system for a split second...then the alternator strains running all out trying to "feed" the battery AND the capacitor. The battery will be the one pushing the system if your alternator can't feed everything. Also note that caps do recover fairly quickly but...think about it, the caps still present a load to the alternator. While the cap feeds the peaks the alternator is giving it's all more often since it has the extra load to feed.
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Last edited by sqcomp; 04-01-2010 at 02:58 PM.
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